Dry Shot ?? using USB PCIII USB Hub

Draco1340

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I'm trying to install the hub this weekend to activate a small 30 dry shot from 2nd through 5th for dragracing. I have run a progressive dry shot on and off for several years, and thought the hub was THE ultimate solution for activating it.

I had assumed that I could do the following things with the hub.
1) activate the hub's relay output with 2nd gear selection.
2) switch maps automatically going into 2nd gear.
It "looks" like relay outputs are only selectable with RPM and / or throttle position. Is that correct?
It "looks" like maps are only switchable with the handlebar switch. Is that correct? Perhaps you can jurry rig the relay output to switch a relay controlling the handlebar switch input?

If these two things are not gear selection dependent, I'm back to the same old dryshot problem of ramping in the spray in 1st and overpowering first gear, or using my progressive w/ timer to delay the shot until second gear, but having the motor super-fat and slow in first gear. I had run a progressive dry shot on and off for several years, and thought the hub was THE ultimate solution. Any help would be appreciated.
 
ive saw somewhere were people were using relays to activate the hub whenever the nitrous was activated but dont remember you might try a search
 
I talked with dynojet about having the gear selection control the outputs about a year ago. I also wanted a rpm "window" instead of the current setup. They hinted there was a possible change in the works that would make me happy. I haven't seen an update yet.

It would be very easy to add a Throttle position sensor style controller to the gear sensor. It would be very easy to swith the maps without the handlbar mounted switch. many have done just that.
 
It would be very easy to add a Throttle position sensor style controller to the gear sensor. .

Not sure I understand this statement?? What do you mean?

It would be very easy to swith the maps without the handlbar mounted switch. many have done just that.

Is this done with inputs from latching relays or some other custom circuitry hacked into the switching harness, or by using the software and available inputs in the Hub?
 
Not sure I understand this statement?? What do you mean?



Is this done with inputs from latching relays or some other custom circuitry hacked into the switching harness, or by using the software and available inputs in the Hub?

This is very easy to do, all you do is take the input signal from the hub switch(the one that the handle bar toggle usually controls for switching maps)and wire it into you N2O relay, so that when your n2o noid is on(activated), its also switching to your n2o map. This way if you have to get out of the kit for some reason, it will automatically switch back to your motor map. :beerchug:
 
Not sure I understand this statement?? What do you mean?



Is this done with inputs from latching relays or some other custom circuitry hacked into the switching harness, or by using the software and available inputs in the Hub?


You can use a tps2 controller from Schnitz Instead of hooking it to the Throttle Position Sensor, hook it to the Gear Position Sensor. Set the voltage so it locks out 1st gear and wire it accordingly.


You can cut the map switch off and use a relay with to swap maps when your nitrous is spraying.
 
This is very easy to do, all you do is take the input signal from the hub switch(the one that the handle bar toggle usually controls for switching maps)and wire it into you N2O relay, so that when your n2o noid is on(activated), its also switching to your n2o map. This way if you have to get out of the kit for some reason, it will automatically switch back to your motor map. :beerchug:

i have been try to figue this out for awhile do you have a diagham for this setup.
 
Thanks for advice all. I am wiring the progressive I have to innitiate timer at launch (WOT), and then switch the map and ramp up the progressive about 1.2 seconds into the run. My progressive has a second output timer, so I can turn the spray on at 1.2 and switch the map at 1.4 to give the spray some time to flow.

I did a practice run last friday night without a map switch; just adding a bunch of fuel to the map above 7k. NEED ADVICE:

I ran 153, 153, 153, 158, 153, 153. It seems like it only worked that one time. ???? I have a very soft 30HP shot (2 15HP nozzles) in the airbox and a pressure pro regulator turned down to 600 psi. It was very cold that night, so I wasn't going to get more than 600 psi anyway. I was hoping to regulate the pressure down to a lower pressure for effectively a 20 or 25hp shot. That was the plan. Any suggestions?

I heard that at low temperatures (in the 40s) any moisture in the lines can freeze and screw up the spray. That seems unlikely. I also have heard that "old" nitrous doesn't work and that it needs to be fresh. That seems rediculous. Its a very stable molecule, but the bottles I have were filled 2 years ago. I'm stumped??
 
Nitrous doesn't get old.... Look into a bottle warmer to get your pressure up!
 
Thanks for advice all. I am wiring the progressive I have to innitiate timer at launch (WOT), and then switch the map and ramp up the progressive about 1.2 seconds into the run. My progressive has a second output timer, so I can turn the spray on at 1.2 and switch the map at 1.4 to give the spray some time to flow.

I did a practice run last friday night without a map switch; just adding a bunch of fuel to the map above 7k. NEED ADVICE:

I ran 153, 153, 153, 158, 153, 153. It seems like it only worked that one time. ???? I have a very soft 30HP shot (2 15HP nozzles) in the airbox and a pressure pro regulator turned down to 600 psi. It was very cold that night, so I wasn't going to get more than 600 psi anyway. I was hoping to regulate the pressure down to a lower pressure for effectively a 20 or 25hp shot. That was the plan. Any suggestions?

I heard that at low temperatures (in the 40s) any moisture in the lines can freeze and screw up the spray. That seems unlikely. I also have heard that "old" nitrous doesn't work and that it needs to be fresh. That seems rediculous. Its a very stable molecule, but the bottles I have were filled 2 years ago. I'm stumped??

IT sounds like your putting way too much fuel to the n2o! if your spraying a 30hp kit, fogging the air box, your losing 10-15% of that! Then you said you WAY richned the fuel map from 7000 up, and you ONLY had 600psi of bottle PSI! Try to always keep bottle psi @ 900-1000PSI(pretty much standard). Make another test run @ this bottle psi, come right back and pull plugs, then let us know what they looked like. ALSO, how much fuel you adding to your map above 7K?
 
Thanks all for the advice.

I have a datalogger, and tune between runs, so no need to pull plugs.
I added +30 to the baseline map above 7K for a 20 - 25HP hit (with 2 15HP jets).
I have a pressure pro N2O regulator set up to regulate pressure to 600 PSI. In theory, the bottle shouldn't need to be higher than 600 PSI. I once instrumented bottle pressure on my datalogger, and found that the 1000 psi dropped to about 700 psi in the first 2 - 3 seconds, so I was going to try the regulator this time. Mabey the regulator needs higher pressure?
 
Thanks all for the advice.

I have a datalogger, and tune between runs, so no need to pull plugs.
I added +30 to the baseline map above 7K for a 20 - 25HP hit (with 2 15HP jets).
I have a pressure pro N2O regulator set up to regulate pressure to 600 PSI. In theory, the bottle shouldn't need to be higher than 600 PSI. I once instrumented bottle pressure on my datalogger, and found that the 1000 psi dropped to about 700 psi in the first 2 - 3 seconds, so I was going to try the regulator this time. Mabey the regulator needs higher pressure?

+30%!! ??? For a 30 shot? Correct me if im wrong here.......i cant rember, But isnt your busa a gen1?
 
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No, Gen II, so the PCIIIUSB on the lower injectors wants 3x the amount of regular fuel (supposedly).

Awh ok, Yes that is correct.....i was thinking you had Gen 1 :banghead: Well, i still would try turning bottle psi up(fresh refill couldn't hurt either) & and try her out again too see what happens. Word of advise, DONT change to many things at one time, other wise ya never be sure what the problem was :dunno: PLEASE, keep me/us updated dated on how it turns out, and luck next time out :beerchug:
 
Were all of those passes on one bottle? I have a 2.5lb bottle and only get about 5-6 runs out of it with the last two suffering badly. Refill your bottle, make sure the pressure is right and try it again.:beerchug:
 
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