Dry NOS for Gen II

[fadiizzaldin]

Hi to all...

whats the max dry NOS shot Gen II can take without modifying the valves/springs? is 50HP ok?

Thanks to all

 

[fadiizzaldin]

...........? no one?

 

[YSI408]

30 dry would be the most I would do! Upgrade your fuel pump also.

 

[fadiizzaldin]

Thanks YSI408 .... i'm already running 30 but heard some did 40 or even 50 HPs!

 

[m_ridgeway]

Pm draco1340.
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[smithabusa]

50 hp imo is just waiting for something give up, the stock valvetrain isn't up to the task. Like they said Draco has a lot of NOS experienece on the gen 2 and has posted a lot of advice in the past, search his posts for some great info

 

[ogre]

seems like everyone is shooting a 40 hit, but definitely do your own research, since you're the one who's gonna pay for the popped motor.

 

[jeepinocala]

50hp dry is no big deal at all I have seen 75 with no problems I use 50 with no problems at all but my bike is a gen1

 

[smithabusa]

gen II is a whole nother story

 

[jeepinocala]

yeah I herd the two injectors situation sucks.

 

[smithabusa]

quite the opposite I made 356 hp on stock injectors
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[jeepinocala]

Then whats the problem with 50hp nitrous? Sounds like you have more than enough fuel. My friend runs 100 hp to a stock bike he has had it running like this for two years now it is a wet system but nothing else besides a pc3 is on his bike and thats a gen1 so the
gen 11 should be able to do the same right?

 

[Draco1340]

All good advice above for the Gen II. As stated by others.

Gen II Valve springs are too light for nitrous. They will eventually spit a shim. If you touch the limiter on spray with stock springs, your in trouble with a 50 shot. You will probably be ok on a 30. I don't know anyone who has kept the Ti valves when switching springs. They might work, but Stainless valves are known to work just fine. At big shots over 100 hp, you really need to modify valve seats, change cam timing, and change rods, but for a 50 shot, just change the valves and springs.

Fuel pumps are good for 40 hp when new, but they eventually get tired, and are affected by heat (don't know why) so anything over 30 is shaky. I have 3 of them on the shelf that are dead. They will not supply enough for a 50 shot safely, and if someone tells you it will, ask them for logs of there fuel pressure and air / fuel.

Gen I busa's have heavier valve springs and less lift (stock) so they handle more spray without taking the head off.

 

[fadiizzaldin]

All good advice above for the Gen II. As stated by others.

Gen II Valve springs are too light for nitrous. They will eventually spit a shim. If you touch the limiter on spray with stock springs, your in trouble with a 50 shot. You will probably be ok on a 30. I don't know anyone who has kept the Ti valves when switching springs. They might work, but Stainless valves are known to work just fine. At big shots over 100 hp, you really need to modify valve seats, change cam timing, and change rods, but for a 50 shot, just change the valves and springs.

Fuel pumps are good for 40 hp when new, but they eventually get tired, and are affected by heat (don't know why) so anything over 30 is shaky. I have 3 of them on the shelf that are dead. They will not supply enough for a 50 shot safely, and if someone tells you it will, ask them for logs of there fuel pressure and air / fuel.

Gen I busa's have heavier valve springs and less lift (stock) so they handle more spray without taking the head off.

Thanks for the info... very useful... i'm planning to rebuild my engine at carpenters and i guess i'll do the whole thing (pistons/ cams/ rods/ valves and springs) but is there a good fuel pump that will replace the stock without the need for modification? i'm asking because i'm going to send the engine and not the whole bike....

Many thanks,