Dry kit for gen2 questions

Then I'd suggest looking at what @Boosted Cycle Perf is doing with stock gen 2 turbo kits.
If you're dead set on spraying it, so be it, but Rob is making power cheaply and reliably.
For now spraying will be the easiest and cheapest way...later I will start thinking about building the engine for bigger shots, but I will take a look about what he is doing definitely
 
ok then have a look for bernd, one of my best friends, and his , i think ´00, gen1 !

he did last year the quarter mile in 8.98 seconds
no turbo / no compressor - "only" nos injected.
somewhere here in germany i guess.

i guess this was quite fast, or not? :race:
8.98 isn't considered fast, 15 years ago MPS racing took a brand new gen 1 and within 8 hours of pulling it out of the shipping crate ran an 8.98 on it. Look up crate to the 8s for details.
Prostreet nitrous bikes are running in the 7.0x to 6.8x range now...
The op is in Poland so maybe things are different there, but an 8.9x won't get you out of the first round at any local heads up event in the US.
 
Turbo is expensive up front but cheaper in the long run. Nitrous isn’t cheap anymore to refill. It’s like 12 bucks a pound and c16 is 98 bucks for 5 gallons. It will ad up fast. I have a nitrous busa and it’s a blast. But you have to make sure the bottle is full and set at the right pressure. You need a heater to warm the bottle. You need multiple bottles and their about 150 per bottle. Your talking a little over $1000 to go nitrous. It can be a pain in the ass to deal with on colder days where you have to heat the bottle to make sure you got correct pressure.
 
Turbo is expensive up front but cheaper in the long run. Nitrous isn’t cheap anymore to refill. It’s like 12 bucks a pound and c16 is 98 bucks for 5 gallons. It will ad up fast. I have a nitrous busa and it’s a blast. But you have to make sure the bottle is full and set at the right pressure. You need a heater to warm the bottle. You need multiple bottles and their about 150 per bottle. Your talking a little over $1000 to go nitrous. It can be a pain in the ass to deal with on colder days where you have to heat the bottle to make sure you got correct pressure.
With what Rob is doing, it's really not that much more expensive up front any more...
 
To go turbo it’s still like 4k at less.

There is a cost but your other thread has brought light to the cost of nitrous...if anything goes out of whack with nitrous, an engine can fragment.

If I were looking for serious useable power, a turbo set up would be the path for me.
 
ok then have a look for bernd, one of my best friends, and his , i think ´00, gen1 !

he did last year the quarter mile in 8.98 seconds
no turbo / no compressor - "only" nos injected.
somewhere here in germany i guess.

i guess this was quite fast, or not? :race:
for people in US its not that fast but here in EU its quit good not so fast but good, i went 1 time to Germany to Finsterwalde to race there and they have one lane with rubber which is not bad to practice
 
Turbo will be much more cost for me at the moment that why i would like to spray for now, but i still not sure how much i can spray safe after changing the springs and the valves from gen1 to gen2, and fuel pump upgrade

any one of the experts can help me with this, anyone here running the say way
 
You should be able to spray 80 shot easy. A lot of people will say it’s all in the tune. Ramp it in and make sure you got good gas, afr and some timing pulled. Some say 1 to 2 degrees of timing pulled for every 50hp. Plus you should run colder plugs with a bigger shot. I have sprayed a 60 shot on my bone stock gen 1 with 110 octane and no timing pulled. Never had a problem and it ate a lot of juice. My stock rod 1397 I plan on spraying more then 100 shot.

@Dennis you got any insight on gen 2 stock motor nitrous?
 
You should be able to spray 80 shot easy. A lot of people will say it’s all in the tune. Ramp it in and make sure you got good gas, afr and some timing pulled. Some say 1 to 2 degrees of timing pulled for every 50hp. Plus you should run colder plugs with a bigger shot. I have sprayed a 60 shot on my bone stock gen 1 with 110 octane and no timing pulled. Never had a problem and it ate a lot of juice. My stock rod 1397 I plan on spraying more then 100 shot.

@Dennis you got any insight on gen 2 stock motor nitrous?
Thank you so much, so 80 shots is still safe but i will go more, i will start to rick the engine, right!!

about gas we have here in EU only 95 and 98 so i should run and tune on 98 pump?

i will -2 dgree and i will run NGK CR9E plugs
 
Thank you so much, so 80 shots is still safe but i will go more, i will start to rick the engine, right!!

about gas we have here in EU only 95 and 98 so i should run and tune on 98 pump?

i will -2 dgree and i will run NGK CR9E plugs
Be sure you're comparing fuel with the same type of octane rating. Here in the US we use the average of MON and RON, in the EU it's just the RON. Your 98 octane is equivalent to 91 octane here.
 
Be sure you're comparing fuel with the same type of octane rating. Here in the US we use the average of MON and RON, in the EU it's just the RON. Your 98 octane is equivalent to 91 octane here.
i just checked now and i found this

EU ratings are 95/98, which are equivalent to US ratings of 91/93. So, EU 95 octane = US 91 octane and EU 98 octane = US 93 octane. Top performance with EU 98 octane = 93 US octane

so i should be running and tuning on 98 here in EU
 
i just checked now and i found this

EU ratings are 95/98, which are equivalent to US ratings of 91/93. So, EU 95 octane = US 91 octane and EU 98 octane = US 93 octane. Top performance with EU 98 octane = 93 US octane

so i should be running and tuning on 98 here in EU
Correct. However, in my opinion running an 80+ shot on true pump gas is asking for trouble. If you get a bad batch you're going to put holes in things.
 
You should be able to spray a 80 shot on pump gas. You will just need to take timing out. Buy lots of spark plugs..... you will want to work your way up to a 80 shot. What I have done is get a good solid na motor map made. Then add fuel where the nitrous will be activated and put some added fuel in and make a pull in 4th gear. Look at the tune and see what the afr is. Once you figure out how much fuel you need for a 20 shot you should be able to calculate what you need when you up the jet size. On my bike with the power commander I add 1 number for 1 hp. So a 20 shot I will add 20 to whole area for my nitrous. That gets me super close. But that’s my application.

I use to spray all of it at 8000 rpm in 1st gear. Bike never really wheelie or spun doing that. But I started to ramp it in at a earlier and netted a big gain. On a 55 shot going from all of it at 8k no ramp and trying 50% at 7k with a 1 sec ramp I gained 2.5 mph in the 1/8. That’s a big gain.

the sooner you can spray the faster you can go. Lots of trial and error when you first start out but after some time you will get real good at it.
 
Relying on any fuel that is from a station to be consistent makes me nervous. That's just me though. Seasonal changes, contaminants, mistakes in delivery, etc.
For everyday riding a difference of a few octane points probably won't result in catastrophic failure. But when you start pushing components to their limits your margin of error gets considerably smaller.
For instance, if the fuel delivery truck accidentally dumps a few hundred gallons of 87 octane into the 100 octane tank do you think the station is gonna pump it all out and fill it back with 100 octane? Or will they just put a few hundred more gallons of 100 octane on top of the 87 and call it good?
 
Back
Top