Drive Chain Tension

BanditKing

Registered
I'm finally getting around to setting my drive chain tension on my own (usually had a shop or friend do it as part of a tire change, etc.)

The manual says the slack should be set between 0.8" (20mm) to 1.2" (30mm).

I set it at 20mm, and it seemed really tight, but that is the spec the manual gives.
30mm seemed borderline loose.

What do you guys with Gen1's set your chain slack to?
 
If you set it per the manual you should be alright. You'll know if its tight by sound and feel.
 
Make sure you make adjustment with you on the bike. If you set the slack with the bike on the stand then then put your weight on it, it will be too tight. So set it to have the manual spec while you are sitting on it. And before someone says it, Obviously you cant adjust the chain while you are sitting on the seat. :laugh:
 
Make sure you make adjustment with you on the bike. If you set the slack with the bike on the stand then then put your weight on it, it will be too tight. So set it to have the manual spec while you are sitting on it. And before someone says it, Obviously you cant adjust the chain while you are sitting on the seat. :laugh:

I am curious, since the manual for my Gen2 specifically says to set the tension with the bike on the side stand, is it possible that Suzuki took into account that it would tighten up with the rider on the bike and thus configured the tension specs to account for that fact? Not looking to be argumentative, just trying to determine the best approach to take to insure that my busa lives a very long and happy life.
 
I am curious, since the manual for my Gen2 specifically says to set the tension with the bike on the side stand, is it possible that Suzuki took into account that it would tighten up with the rider on the bike and thus configured the tension specs to account for that fact? Not looking to be argumentative, just trying to determine the best approach to take to insure that my busa lives a very long and happy life.

Not everyone weighs the same.
A 150lb rider is not going to compress the suspension and tighten the chain nearly as much as a 200 to 250 rider, ect.
Always tighten a chain with YOU the rider seated on it, off the stand.
After you get good at it you can adjust it by eye, snug it up, sit on the bike, and reach down and check the slack by hand. Once it's right, tighten it down. Get some help until you're able to do so.
There are several things in the Busa manual, and almost every other bike or car manual out there that are questionable.
Suzuki also recommends 42psi in the rear tire, the max tire pressure...and a very bad idea.
 
Not everyone weighs the same.
A 150lb rider is not going to compress the suspension and tighten the chain nearly as much as a 200 to 250 rider, ect.
Always tighten a chain with YOU the rider seated on it, off the stand.
After you get good at it you can adjust it by eye, snug it up, sit on the bike, and reach down and check the slack by hand. Once it's right, tighten it down. Get some help until you're able to do so.
There are several things in the Busa manual, and almost every other bike or car manual out there that are questionable.
Suzuki also recommends 42psi in the rear tire, the max tire pressure...and a very bad idea.

Thanks for the excellent info sixpack; and I must ask, since I still have the factory tire on the rear for a couple more months, what would you recommend for the correct tire pressure? Admittedly, I have been maintaining it at 42psi per the manual.
 
Thanks for the excellent info sixpack; and I must ask, since I still have the factory tire on the rear for a couple more months, what would you recommend for the correct tire pressure? Admittedly, I have been maintaining it at 42psi per the manual.

Tire pressure depends upon riding style.
Ballpark starting point.
Curves, front rear 36/36, more aggressive rider 34/34.
Cruising/highway, personally still 36 front, up to 38 rear. Add a lb to the rear for a passenger.
The lower the tire pressure the bigger the contact patch with the road, and the more traction you have.
Keep in mind tire pressure will come up 2 or 3 psi, or more, as the tires get hot.
Make sure that you have properly set the suspension too, for your body weight(in full gear if you wear it, as it increases your weight)with YOU on the bike. 35-40mm of sag for street riding. If it is incorrect the tires will not stay in correct contact with the road, and you will have a very rough or sloppy handling bike. Unsafe, and just no fun to ride. The bike is unable to perform to it's abilities.
You need an extra set of hands to do this.
 
Tire pressure depends upon riding style.
Ballpark starting point.
Curves, front rear 36/36, more aggressive rider 34/34.
Cruising/highway, personally still 36 front, up to 38 rear. Add a lb to the rear for a passenger.
The lower the tire pressure the bigger the contact patch with the road, and the more traction you have.
Keep in mind tire pressure will come up 2 or 3 psi, or more, as the tires get hot.
Make sure that you have properly set the suspension too, for your body weight(in full gear if you wear it, as it increases your weight)with YOU on the bike. 35-40mm of sag for street riding. If it is incorrect the tires will not stay in correct contact with the road, and you will have a very rough or sloppy handling bike. Unsafe, and just no fun to ride. The bike is unable to perform to it's abilities.
You need an extra set of hands to do this.

Indeed, the suspension has been tuned to my weight in gear; straight off the showroom floor it rode like a damn rocking horse every time I was getting into the throttle or brakes. I don't have a terribly aggressive riding style as I commute 600 miles a week on my bike, but there are some back roads that tempt me to rub the chicken strips off the tires. I am thinking I will have a go with the tires at 36/38 and see how she does.

And again, thanks for the great info and my apologies to BanditKing for the thread jacking.
 
Yes sir, you may need to play with tire pressure some, and/or make fine adjustments to the suspension.
With a little practice the chicken strips will go away, just don't ride hard with the sole purpose of removing them.:beerchug:
 
Not everyone weighs the same.
A 150lb rider is not going to compress the suspension and tighten the chain nearly as much as a 200 to 250 rider, ect.
Always tighten a chain with YOU the rider seated on it, off the stand.
After you get good at it you can adjust it by eye, snug it up, sit on the bike, and reach down and check the slack by hand. Once it's right, tighten it down. Get some help until you're able to do so.
There are several things in the Busa manual, and almost every other bike or car manual out there that are questionable.
Suzuki also recommends 42psi in the rear tire, the max tire pressure...and a very bad idea.

This brings up another question, I leave chain replacement to my mechanic so how is he adjusting it since I'm not there? As for checking the tension I use the following method. After a new chain is put on I put the bike on the stand and then push the chain up until it hits the bottom of the swing arm. Then every time I clean/lube the chain I do the same thing, if it's seems easier or takes less effort to push the chain up I adjust it.
 
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