Dreaded Drain Bolt Solution?

Unsung

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So I changed my oil today. No problems. I was aware of the 3 thread remaining slot gimmick Suxuki uses on their oil pans. However I did feel that, " something different " when VERY carefully torquing down the bolt. Judas Preist that thing is rediculous! I mean, jeez it was likely the only twice used crush washer deforming a little more but man! What a hazard and liability! I bet many multi year busa riders have zero issues but it is still an abnormally weak design.
So, I search for a remedy. Anyone ever considered drilling and tapping the stock bolt and turning it into a reducer? Locktight the oem bolt threads in pretty much permenantly and using the smaller but full threaded smaller plug? Seems like a good idea to me. Somebody tell me how that is a bad one.
 
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0032895_brass-drain-plug-adapter-m14-and-m10.jpeg
This is what I have in mind.
 
That honestly is it, peace of mind. And my own little touch and ingenuity. Just seeing anyone can point out a mechanical conflict or if there is a pre existing solution that's similar.
 
Next payday along with a fob / phone informing chirp alarm I'm investing in the stahlbus. As long as it fits that should make things much more pleasant.
 
The safety wire idea is genious. I never considered that. It would have to be twisted tought to keep pressure on the clockwise. If not I don't see it doing much. Aside from meeting regulations/requirements.
But then again that's an uninformed first perspective.
 
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I put a sert in mine this year too, just changed the oil for the first time since installation.
 
Military uses helicoil inserts on almost all aluminum parts held with bolts. Very strong setup. Very easy to do with basic skills.
 
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The safety wire idea is genious. I never considered that. It would have to be twisted tought to keep pressure on the clockwise. If not I don't see it doing much. Aside from meeting regulations/requirements.
But then again that's an uninformed first perspective.

If it's safety wired correctly, which it is, the bolt is not backing out. There is no way it can.
Worst case scenario, the vibration causes the bolt to loosen. If it can move even the slighest, the worst would be a super slow drip. Which you would see.
Safety wiring is worth doing.
Anyone who disagrees just hasn't had anything significant fall of yet.
Which has just given me a brainstorm!
Harley Davidson brand safety wire!
I'll be rich as soon as I patent it!
And yes, I've ridden many Harleys...and I've had parts fall off going down the road:lol:
 
If it's safety wired correctly, which it is, the bolt is not backing out. There is no way it can.
Worst case scenario, the vibration causes the bolt to loosen. If it can move even the slighest, the worst would be a super slow drip. Which you would see.
Safety wiring is worth doing.
Anyone who disagrees just hasn't had anything significant fall of yet.
Which has just given me a brainstorm!
Harley Davidson brand safety wire!
I'll be rich as soon as I patent it!
And yes, I've ridden many Harleys...and I've had parts fall off going down the road:lol:
Brilliant idea! You can overcharge for the wire, and if it fails nobody will be surprised! I'll be your first investor. :thumbsup:
 
I stripped mine a few years back. Stupid ass Jap engineering aluminum pan with steel bolt. I bought a "Time Sert" kit. It's like a heli coil, I tried it and I would recommend the Time-Sert kit. Steel thread insert with steel bolt. No more worries. Plus I also have it wired.
 
The japanese are far from stupid, so I wouldn't exclusify them for what is indeed either a flop or foul angle to ring in repairs, when everybody commits human errors. Everybody poops.

... and steel drain bolts in aluminium pans are made by everyone worldwide. It just isn't the case all every time.
 
I honestly have never had a problem with either my Honda or my Suzuki. It's not that difficult to screw an oil pan bolt into the pan and not strip it. It doesn't have to be that tight. Also, never had a leak and have never changed crush washers.
 
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