Do I Need New Tires?

RedBusarider

Registered
I've been looking over the threads on changing tires. My question is DO I need new tires.
As this season is just about to start, I'm wondering if I should get new tires.

I have a 2004 Busa with 4500 easy miles. I have never done a wheelie even though I've tried.
Just in case your wondering I have 3 bikes, this one just doesn't get rode as much, although I hope to change that.
The tires still have good tread. They are original.
It gets stored inside during the winter.
I guess I'm wondering if the rubber can/does break down after 7½ years or can it get hard etc.
I plan on riding it a little more this year, especially with gas prices going up up & up. :banghead:

Now if anyone thinks I should change them instead of running them another year or so,
then I would like suggestions on what tires. Standard 120/190 on it now.

I don't do wheelies or burn outs, just the once in a while WOT.
At this point I don't think I will take it to a track anytime soon either.
Most riding is solo with a passenger maybe 5-6 times a year.

So hopefully you guys can give me some good advice.
Thanks in Advance. :thumbsup:
 
personally i would change them if your going to start playing with her more... i run michelin pilot power 2ct's they are sticky and hold great but have a bit of a shorter length but i go through a set a year if not more than that
 
4500 miles in 7.5 years. Lord 'a mercy, that's 4 months for me on a good season.:laugh:
Yeah, I'd be changing the old BT-46s out for something else (mine lasted 2400 miles, also no burnouts or wheelies, just twisties). Those things must be the consistency of an ashtray by now.
 
You should be ashamed of yourself...Its 8 years old and only has 4500 miles. Unless you are draining the fuel it probably needs a fuel filter if you are running an ethanol blend.
 
When I bought my 2000 used in November of last year, it still had the original tires on it (bike only had 15K miles). There was plenty of tread but the rubber had become hard and the grip was poor. Even going around a corner at moderate speed I could feel the rear sliding. Fortunately, having learned on dirt bikes, sliding tires I can handle. I'm guessing that your tires are probably in the same condition. I ended up replacing them with Dunlop Sportmax Q2's and they stick like flypaper. Confidence and peace of mind were worth the change.
 
When I bought my 2000 used in November of last year, it still had the original tires on it (bike only had 15K miles). There was plenty of tread but the rubber had become hard and the grip was poor.

How in the world does someone get 15,000 miles on a set of 46s? I can barely get 5000 miles on a Pilot Road 2 FRONT before the sides are burned to the wear bars. Rears a 1000 or so less.
 
Your tires are too old and hard ... chuck them and get a new pair ... there has been a revolution in them this last few years BT56s were never up to much, even when they were new ... All the tires that have been suggested have merit and will do a great job ... I'm running BT016s on my 03, the 3rd set, that's how good they are.
 
I expected some :spank: because I have so low miles, and that's OK.
Like I said, I hope to ride more from here on out.

Well I'm thinking I will bite the bullet and get new tires.

A few more questions:

Do most of you buy your tires online? My dealers prices are $100-200 higher. If I bring them tires and my wheels off the bike it's $35 / wheel to install.
Are USA made tires (good ones) even made? Not a huge deal but I try to buy USA if I can...
I think I can get the wheels off no problem except for the 36mm socket for the rear wheel. Do you have to have this? I don't.

Thanks for the replies. Any other tips are welcome, keep them coming......
 
Michelin Pilot Power 2CT's are awesome. If you dont ride hard I would go with the Michelin Road 3 they are supposed to get more mileage but since you dont ride often I would run the Pilot Power 2CT's They are an awesome tire and will meet any demand you put on them.
 
Do most of you buy your tires online? My dealers prices are $100-200 higher. If I bring them tires and my wheels off the bike it's $35 / wheel to install.
Are USA made tires (good ones) even made? Not a huge deal but I try to buy USA if I can...
I think I can get the wheels off no problem except for the 36mm socket for the rear wheel. Do you have to have this? I don't.

I'm fortunate in that I have a privately owned parts/service shop about 1/2 mile from my house that gives me darn near internet prices on stuff. $300 for a Dunlop Q2 front and Road Smart rear (yes, made in the USA), mounted and balanced.
And I got my 36mm axle nut socket at the Auto Zone for $18.
 
RedBusarider said:
I expected some :spank: because I have so low miles, and that's OK.
Like I said, I hope to ride more from here on out.

Well I'm thinking I will bite the bullet and get new tires.

A few more questions:

Do most of you buy your tires online? My dealers prices are $100-200 higher. If I bring them tires and my wheels off the bike it's $35 / wheel to install.
Are USA made tires (good ones) even made? Not a huge deal but I try to buy USA if I can...
I think I can get the wheels off no problem except for the 36mm socket for the rear wheel. Do you have to have this? I don't.

Thanks for the replies. Any other tips are welcome, keep them coming......

No idea where they're made, never looked into it. Ya deff need a 36 or a big monkey wrench to remove the rear, the original tool kit that came with the bike has one, check under the passenger seat, ya may,have it and not even know. :lol:

Smellphone via Forum Runner
 
If you had four of them I'd say ride on, but since you only have two I'd go with get new. I buy all my tires over the internet but I change my own tires. Dealers frown on folks bringing tires in to be mounted. You will pay the penalty :laugh:
 
Thanks guys.
I'm taking off the front wheel now. I read somewhere that you should remove the front fender first.
I loosened it all up, but can't get it out with the tire in place. Unless there is a trick to it. ???

Yes I could get the rear nut off with a crescent wrench however I believe that I would still need the socket to use my torque wrench on it, right?

I plan on making some calls on Monday about tires. Any places you really like to do business with and are there any place that you would never do business with?

One other question, Do you all still use a 190 on the rear or do like a 180 better? I heard that the 180 turns quicker. No sure if that's good or bad.... any difference in ware???
 
Thanks guys.
I'm taking off the front wheel now. I read somewhere that you should remove the front fender first.
I loosened it all up, but can't get it out with the tire in place. Unless there is a trick to it. ???

Yes I could get the rear nut off with a crescent wrench however I believe that I would still need the socket to use my torque wrench on it, right?

I plan on making some calls on Monday about tires. Any places you really like to do business with and are there any place that you would never do business with?

One other question, Do you all still use a 190 on the rear or do like a 180 better? I heard that the 180 turns quicker. No sure if that's good or bad.... any difference in ware???

Did you remove the front brake calipers? You'll need to do that to get the front wheel off.

You will want a socket for the rear axle nut in order to properly torque it down.

There are several good places to buy tires, but I usually go with Sportbike Track Gear.

I think a few guys use a 180 on the rear. A 190/55 feels great on the rear, and does allow easier and quicker turn-in. It's noticeably better than the stock 190/50.
 
Thanks guys.
I'm taking off the front wheel now. I read somewhere that you should remove the front fender first.
I loosened it all up, but can't get it out with the tire in place. Unless there is a trick to it. ???
No, you don't need to take it off. Just take out the 4 allen bolts on the sides in front of the fork tubes.

Yes I could get the rear nut off with a crescent wrench however I believe that I would still need the socket to use my torque wrench on it, right?
Yup, 72.5 ft/lbs

I plan on making some calls on Monday about tires. Any places you really like to do business with and are there any place that you would never do business with?
If I'm not buying locally, I go with ATV Parts, ATV Tires, Dirt Bike Parts, Motocross Gear, Motorcycle parts and Motorcycle Tires | Rocky Mountain ATV/MC They have street stuff too, and have always been very competetive with their prices. Customer service is second to none too.

One other question, Do you all still use a 190 on the rear or do like a 180 better? I heard that the 180 turns quicker. No sure if that's good or bad.... any difference in ware???
Stick with the 190/50. If you want a bit better turn in, go with a 190/55.
 
I buy online....saves quite a bit. and made my own bead break, and bought a cheap wheel balancer from harbor freight. change my own tires from here on out, and all for the cost of 1 set of mount and balance from anywhere else. plus i dont have to take them anywhere, dont have to wait or deal with their hours, and can spin the tires on the rim to get as little weights as possible vs them just popping the tires on and adding 5lbs of weights out of laziness.....by the way, any local guys wanting tires mounted and balanced? would love to help. only charge a donation for cost of wheel weights, and a mountain dew:)


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