Difference between HID and Hyper Halogen Bulbs?
- Thread starter shvl
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halogen bulbs still run a filament, HID strikes an arc and keeps a flame (so to speak) lit.. a lot less sensitive to vibrations etc.. life span should be a lot better and light output "should" stay a bit more stable on the HID.. (life span on HID bulbs is around 3000 hours and maintain 75% output best to my memory , we replace all HID's on marine tanks at 3000 hours , or 1 year of use)
I do not have any charts on "halogen" lights but got a lot of them on HID stuff so can not tell you the differences in output at all.. maybe the makers of the halogen bulbs have the charts?
HID= high intensity discharge
I do not have any charts on "halogen" lights but got a lot of them on HID stuff so can not tell you the differences in output at all.. maybe the makers of the halogen bulbs have the charts?
HID= high intensity discharge
Since when? Most of your high dollar cages come standard with them. I cant recall anyone being pulled over for HIDs
shvl
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Thanks for the info. I also came across a description of both on the Pashnit site:
Xenon SuperWhite Headlight Bulb
Xenon, or 'high intensity' are another great mod to get rid of the stock bulbs. The bulbs can be extremely bright, and appear as different hues of colors. These xenon gas-filled bulbs burn much brighter, but much cooler due to the xenon. The bulbs are also higher wattage of 100w rather than the stock of 60/55w. Trick Tape.com sells a set just for the Hayabusa. An HID setup is also available from Icemann (see contact info below) and runs $150-250. I just got a yellow headlight but haven't gotten around to installing it yet.
Cost: $20
I'd be weary of using those tricktape bulbs.
If you do a search I jumped on the band wagon and I was as excited as a puppy on his first taste of bacon. I've heard reports of people burning the wiring harnesses pushing 100W through their lines.
I never burned my harness but I melted the socket that the bulb connected too.
Had to remove the socket and scrape the contacts clean. There was so much corrosion on them it caused the bulb to lose contact.
Once I scraped them they were good for a while but eventually the socket had just melted beyond the ability to repair them.
Ended up tosing the whole socket and just going HID.
They lasted me a good year before they melted beyond the point of repair though.
The HID's still are a lot brighter. Also, the 100W drain on the low beams caused a serious draw on my battery to the point where I had to put it on a tender about once a week.
The HID's on the other hand I havn't tendered them in months. (and this is the same battery I was using when I had the 100W bulbs on them)
Just something to consider.....
35W, brighter light, cooler, less chance of damage to wiring.
100W, cheaper, not as bright, possible risks of burning wiring.
Better to just invest the extra cash and be done with it.
If you do a search I jumped on the band wagon and I was as excited as a puppy on his first taste of bacon. I've heard reports of people burning the wiring harnesses pushing 100W through their lines.
I never burned my harness but I melted the socket that the bulb connected too.
Had to remove the socket and scrape the contacts clean. There was so much corrosion on them it caused the bulb to lose contact.
Once I scraped them they were good for a while but eventually the socket had just melted beyond the ability to repair them.
Ended up tosing the whole socket and just going HID.
They lasted me a good year before they melted beyond the point of repair though.
The HID's still are a lot brighter. Also, the 100W drain on the low beams caused a serious draw on my battery to the point where I had to put it on a tender about once a week.
The HID's on the other hand I havn't tendered them in months. (and this is the same battery I was using when I had the 100W bulbs on them)
Just something to consider.....
35W, brighter light, cooler, less chance of damage to wiring.
100W, cheaper, not as bright, possible risks of burning wiring.
Better to just invest the extra cash and be done with it.
Actually anything that is not stock from the factory is illegal especially aftermarket exhaust as for head lights it can only be replaced with the manufactures origional or equivalent. Same goes for wind screens..
Zoinks!
Registered
+1. Don't use the imitation HID halogyns. You'll regret it. I work in a shop at a chevrolet/cadillac dealer and I've seen people running these kind of bulbs. They do SEVERE damage to the connectors and the wiring and cause fire risks. The difference in cost IS NOT worth the risk. At the very least you'll melt your headlight connector. Worst case: melt connector, burn/melt wiring, and cause an electrical fire. There's a reason they only put. . .What is it? 55 watt, I think, bulbs in at the factory. The true HID's only draw 35 watts, they're brighter, burn cooler, look better, and all around are just a MUCH better idea.
you won't regret getting the HID's. especially if you do any nite ride'n
above are HID's
and these are silver stars
and these are silver stars
I think I gotta remove this off the pashnit site. I was doing the homework to write that before I'd ever heard of HID's.
Ok next question. Yana Shiki sells a HID conversion kit for just $80. It's too easy to say the 'get what you pay for' saying though. I remember when HID's came out and they were pushin' $700. Then it was $400. Then it was $330 and now here we are. I can't find any easy immediate info on the VIPHID name to research them. $80 ain't half bad for someone on a budget.
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They're coming to down to the price they should have been all along.
Mike- I will likely add these to the PashnitBusa.com storefront eventually, however on everything I carry, I prefer to use it myself or at least do a good amount of homework on it. Always good to talk about this sort of thing.
Again, for someone on a budget (we've all been there), maybe $80 would be a good step in that direction (& that's normal retail). I'm thinkin' I need to pick up the phone and call the guys at Yana Shiki and ask about this particular kit- get some more details.
HID is the only way to go in my opinion especially if you ride at night...here is some info i found by ks-waterbug when i was doing the research before buying mine:
HID info
Colors:
Color is important, 4-5k gives the best performance and is closest to natural sunlight. It is also far less offensive to the eye, yours and oncoming traffic. The higher temps are more for bling factor, but will give less light and more "glare".
3000K has an approximately 3200lm output, which is more than 3x the light output of the traditional halogen light. 3000K emits GOLDEN YELLOW color and offers superior penetration power during adverse weather epically in dense fog. The applications of the 3000K kit aim more towards secondary lighting apparatus such as high beam and fog lights. The 3000K capsule is actually a 5000K capsule specially coated with a film that filters out all the wave length except the range of wave length which emits yellow.
4300K has an approximately 3200lm output, which is more than 3x the light output of the traditional halogen light and is the color temperature with the most output. The light appears fairly white, and has light yellowish hue when reflected off the road identical to the OEM HID equipped vehicles. This color is for customers who is looking for pure performance white improving the looks of their headlight. It is idea for customers who does a lot of back road or canyon driving and need the optimal visibility.
6000K has an approximately 2800lm output, which is 3x the light output of the traditional halogen light and slightly less light output compared to the 5000K. Although it has a bit lesser light output, it emits pure whiter light with very slight and barely noticeable tint of blue.
8000K has an approximately 2550lm output, which is about 3x the light output of the traditional halogen light and slightly less light output compared to the 6000K. While it has a bit lesser light output, it emits bluer light than the 6000K.
Power consumption:
These HIDs use much less power than stock bulbs, only 35 watts per bulb. They are the perfect option for bikes with weak generators that need more light. Using higher wattage halogens will not equal the power these produce, and higher wattage halogens produce alot of glare and light scatter.
Legality:
HID conversions are not technically legal in the US, but neither is speeding, or using "race only" pipes on a bike, so take that into consideration when making your purchase.
Will they blind other drivers?
If properly installed and aimed they will not. Actually I have been flashed less since installing and properly aiming them than I did with the stock bulbs. The only time I was flashed was on a turn when it pointed the light directly at an oncoming car. With the stocks lights I had to raise the beam slightly for better vision, with the HIDs I use factory spec settings. Remember, it is imperative to properly aim your lights, as the output is much more than stock.
What separates genuine Xenon gas-filled Bulbs from Xenon HID?
HID (High Intensity Discharge) is the technology in which the filament of the Halogen Bulb is replaced with Xenon gas. When high voltage is applied, the gas generates an arc of light. The Xenon gas generates 3x more light than standard halogen Bulbs. Most companies do produce gas-filled halogen Bulbs. These Bulbs do consist of a filament, but the gas gives off a bluer color. The negative part of xenon-filled halogen Bulbs, is they produce very little or no more then standard halogen Bulbs with the same voltage.
How long will the Bulbs last?
An average of 2500 hours is normal from bulb testing. *But, most will outlast your ownership of the bike you install them on.... Hope this helps!
Oh yea the Busa
H7 low beam..
9005 High beam..
HID info
Colors:
Color is important, 4-5k gives the best performance and is closest to natural sunlight. It is also far less offensive to the eye, yours and oncoming traffic. The higher temps are more for bling factor, but will give less light and more "glare".
3000K has an approximately 3200lm output, which is more than 3x the light output of the traditional halogen light. 3000K emits GOLDEN YELLOW color and offers superior penetration power during adverse weather epically in dense fog. The applications of the 3000K kit aim more towards secondary lighting apparatus such as high beam and fog lights. The 3000K capsule is actually a 5000K capsule specially coated with a film that filters out all the wave length except the range of wave length which emits yellow.
4300K has an approximately 3200lm output, which is more than 3x the light output of the traditional halogen light and is the color temperature with the most output. The light appears fairly white, and has light yellowish hue when reflected off the road identical to the OEM HID equipped vehicles. This color is for customers who is looking for pure performance white improving the looks of their headlight. It is idea for customers who does a lot of back road or canyon driving and need the optimal visibility.
6000K has an approximately 2800lm output, which is 3x the light output of the traditional halogen light and slightly less light output compared to the 5000K. Although it has a bit lesser light output, it emits pure whiter light with very slight and barely noticeable tint of blue.
8000K has an approximately 2550lm output, which is about 3x the light output of the traditional halogen light and slightly less light output compared to the 6000K. While it has a bit lesser light output, it emits bluer light than the 6000K.
Power consumption:
These HIDs use much less power than stock bulbs, only 35 watts per bulb. They are the perfect option for bikes with weak generators that need more light. Using higher wattage halogens will not equal the power these produce, and higher wattage halogens produce alot of glare and light scatter.
Legality:
HID conversions are not technically legal in the US, but neither is speeding, or using "race only" pipes on a bike, so take that into consideration when making your purchase.
Will they blind other drivers?
If properly installed and aimed they will not. Actually I have been flashed less since installing and properly aiming them than I did with the stock bulbs. The only time I was flashed was on a turn when it pointed the light directly at an oncoming car. With the stocks lights I had to raise the beam slightly for better vision, with the HIDs I use factory spec settings. Remember, it is imperative to properly aim your lights, as the output is much more than stock.
What separates genuine Xenon gas-filled Bulbs from Xenon HID?
HID (High Intensity Discharge) is the technology in which the filament of the Halogen Bulb is replaced with Xenon gas. When high voltage is applied, the gas generates an arc of light. The Xenon gas generates 3x more light than standard halogen Bulbs. Most companies do produce gas-filled halogen Bulbs. These Bulbs do consist of a filament, but the gas gives off a bluer color. The negative part of xenon-filled halogen Bulbs, is they produce very little or no more then standard halogen Bulbs with the same voltage.
How long will the Bulbs last?
An average of 2500 hours is normal from bulb testing. *But, most will outlast your ownership of the bike you install them on.... Hope this helps!
Oh yea the Busa
H7 low beam..
9005 High beam..
So the Yana Shiki one is a 8000K setup. Thanks Colen, that's really helpful info. Lot to choose from. Although hard to read all that and immediately say one is better than the other. All good info.
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