Decisions... Any One Have Some Advice For Me

[89mustang]

i had fun with my bike this year. Best pass to date was a 9.06@153 sitting at 64" did that with and without the air shifter. My best 60' was 1.42. Looking to go 8's this year on motor. I know I could stretch the bike out more but I don't want a limousine.

I'm thinking of building a 1441 vs. Doing more bolt ons. I know my goal could be done with a longer wheel base and shock. I'd like to run crazy 8's without spray.

Bucket list is to run KOTS here in Chicago. I know there are guys that are way better than me here that are flying on stock motor. I just have come to the realization I'm gonna need some hp to get there. Anyone have a 1441 and are happy they went that way?

 

[Stevo80]

I'm guessing those with a 1441 will chime in soon.
So.. my suggestions...
A) If you are a bigger guy, go on a diet
B) Is there any weight you can take off the bike that you haven't? Lighter exhaust, subframe, battery, pegs, top tree, oil cooler delete, etc etc just to start.
C) A very small dry shot of nos will easily put you in the crazy 8 race as well and easy to control with a gen 2.
20-25 lbs equals a .1 in the 1/4 pretty much, so keep that in mind.

Good luck!

 

[c10]

How tight are your leathers ? do the flap @ speed ? if So your losing mph = e.t. I hear the 1441 kits on Gen II can crack best to use a Gen I block on the Gen II cases /head for 1441 .

 

[89mustang]

I'm about 185+/- a couple pounds suited.
I have an alien head full exhaust, light weight battery. Removed rear pegs and put lighter pegs on the factory rearsets. Ceramic wheel bearings removed mirrors and bar ends. Can't justify BST's.

 

[89mustang]

Leathers fit snug. I was going to do the gen 1 cylinder on it. I know it's 50/50 on them cracking and with my luck it's better to do it haha. It was gonna be built to do a decent shot to it later on down the road

 

[89mustang]

I'm sure I could go grudge tank with cut forks and do a sidewinder with a lo pro pan and get my 60' down in the 1.3's would help. It would be cheaper for sure

 

[DC259]

I'm surprised no one said this yet but if you simply just put the air shifter on that would put you in the 8's. I've seen multiple times where a air shifter is good to nearly shave off 2 10ths. Props to you making the times you've had already.

 

[Dennis]

I think his comment is that his best is the same with and without the shifter. At his weight and 153 mph he's not wasting much time on the shift.

As mentioned, cut weight. It helps even if you go 1441. A glass tank saves quite a bit ... I don't remember right now for sure. An aluminum subframe is good for 6-7 pounds. A gen-1 aluminum piece will work but if you use a removable hump tail some of the mounts don't line up for the base tail. It works fine on my tail with no removable hump. Those two items will get you in the 8's, but not down to 8.88. To run that class you really want to be able to run 8.70's, or at least a low 8.80 so that you aren't depending on the perfect run every pass. You'll need to practice on the pro tree just to make sure your 60's are as good with the quick leave. If you were longer I would suggest removing a rotor and caliper but that may just cause a wheelie for you at 64". Are you fit at your weight? If not, get the flab off. It all helps, plus it is the best place to lose weight for center of gravity. There are a number of wheel choices that can save you 5-6 pounds that aren't BST's. You can get a lighter front tire and save a pound.

Beyond that, the 1441 is a no brainer to get you where you want to be.

 

[Stevo80]

Like Dennis said, there are cheaper wheels. You won't see BST's on my bike either. I sold my stock wheels and did the R1 swap with only costing me about $125 to get it all done. They are only about 5lbs lighter including rotors etc., but almost free. Believe it or not you can lose almost a 1lb on cut down rotors too that will cost you about $75 to have done. Just a side thought. Good luck!

 

[89mustang]

I appreciate the feedback. I'm thinking the 1441 is gonna be the way to go. I still do street ride the bike. I don't wanna get to crazy pulling stuff off for weight reduction. I'm gonna try to get my self down 10lbs.

 

[sixpack577]

I appreciate the feedback. I'm thinking the 1441 is gonna be the way to go. I still do street ride the bike. I don't wanna get to crazy pulling stuff off for weight reduction. I'm gonna try to get my self down 10lbs.

The R1 wheel swap mentioned would be a great idea.
Cheap and a noticeable improvement in handling on the street.
It would have to make the bike quicker with several less pounds of unsprung weight.
I don't know if there's any math genious out there that could calculate how much time could theoretically be made up with the swap.
I would think that anyone who has ran a bike with stock wheels, then BST's under very similiar conditions, and had time slips to show gains; then you could guesstimate half of that gain. As the BSTs are about as much lighter from the R1s as the R1s are from stock Busa.
There was a thread here a few years ago that showed weights on stock wheels, BSTs, R1's, a couple different brands of magnesium wheels, and magnesium/cf combo wheels. R1s are hard to beat, especially since you can luck out and get a set for dirt cheap. Some spacers and custom front axle, and the R1 rotors are all that is needed.
Dollar for dollar, I doubt you'll gain any time or speed for anywhere near as cheap.
But, I'm no drag racer, just my 2 cents.
And yes, I know, the gains will be small, but every little bit counts. Especially being so close to your goal. I would think you could even get there with perfect weather and track conditions, and just riding at your best on that particular day.
Good luck with it.

 

[RedBull]

I'm surprised no one said this yet,
but if you simply just put the air shifter on that would put you in the 8's.

I've seen multiple times where a air shifter is good to nearly shave off 2 10ths.

Props to you making the times you've had already.

If you can't shift fast already ~ he's right about pushing a button . . .

But if you know how to dance on the shifter ?

Spend your money elsewhere !

Red, *<(:{)-

 

[Dennis]

At his wheelbase the lighter front wheel will contribute to wheelies. I'm at 67" and am considering putting my second caliper back on, filled with lead, just to help fight wheelies. I think the improved 60' may make me quicker, even if a bit slower mph.

 

[Stevo80]

Ah....I forgot about limited wheelbase too. How about offset clamps? Can shave about 4 lbs and get way more weight over the front? Just another thought.

 

[Dennis]

Offset clamps really don't get weight over the front like you might think. The center of gravity doesn't move much, and in the wrong direction. While it will show more weight on a scale, that isn't really what determines tendency to wheelie. Think about the moment the front tire leaves the pavement and what those offset clamps are doing for you ... nothing. It does shorten the wheelbase so you can add length in back and meet a class limit.

 

[89mustang]

My brother bought a set of bst's for his gen2 he's swb. When you add that total cost (wheels,tires,sprocket, and bearings) your close to 4400+. You knocking on the door of the 1441. Id like to think of I'm going to spen that much I'd like to see something that would make me feel better. His bike did pick up but not much.

I've seen the racks that mount on the front that hold the batteries and fuel cells. That would help. Lees even makes a factory wheel that weighs 20#. Putting weight were you need it.

I put an airshifter on last year. It's more consistent but I was in the thousandths of what I ran foot shifting both passes were 9.06@153.

I also put a quick turn throttle on last year was only able to get to the track once with it. I started working 60-70 hour weeks after that. It was hard to get used to it was like a light switch haha. I struggled with it that day and left after 15 passes disappointed

This forum is great for ideas. I don't have to meet a wheelbase rule. Just wanting it at 64" feel like it'll be an accomplishment!

 

[Stevo80]

Off set clamps may not make a huge difference as you describe in that situation. The reason for them is class racing of course for one, but it does mover more weight closer to the front, therefore making the effort to keep that front tire from ever lifting as in your description. That is the way I see it anyway. The weight has not moved in relation to the rear tire or on the "lever" that the horsepower is acting on.However if the "lever" becomes shorter I have to think it is harder to lift. Maybe I am not correct. Just seems like it to me.

 

[Blackmax]

Gen 1 1441 here , just do the motor and have at it

 

[Dennis]

Stevo - The wheel isn't the lever, it is acceleration working on the center of gravity (which moves slightly rearward with the offset clamps) and chassis/engine dynamics which don't change. Weight on the front (like a heavy wheel or Brocks brick) definitely opposes the rotation of the bike into a wheelie, but with the clamps you didn't add weight or move it further from the center of rotation.

 

[Stevo80]

I'm no engineer so I don't know. I just think that if you were to do the opposite and lets say move the wheel further out front, lets even be silly and say a foot out. That I could physically grab the front wheel and it would be easier for me to lift the front of the bike up. If I moved the front wheel closer to the rear wheel, I would have to expect that it would be harder to lift the front of the bike? Maybe I don't get it...