Dealer myth

[ozz]

Hey guys, I had to go overto the dealer this morning to pick up my busa cause i rode the new gsxr home and while i was there i asked the shop guy if he would grab me an oil filter for my first oil change on the new 1000.
When i told him i was planning on changing the oil at 100 miles he said dont.

He told me to wait until 600 miles cause theres break in oil in the bike. I have never heard of such a thing. He said if i change it before 600 miles it will take up to 1500 miles before its broken in and i would need to easy on the bike the whole time.

I ask him what the difference is and he told me its a thinner oil than the 10/40......huh? is this right? never heard that one.

What do you guys think about what he told me? doesent sound right to me.

 

[ozz]

Heres the new 1000

 

[warwgn]

very nice!!

The oil thing sounds like BS to me, there is no break in for gears really. Break in is to seat the rings and allow the cam and rockers to wear together, thin oil would not be to good for the latter.

 

[ozz]

I think your right....when he said that to me I ask him what the vicosity of this mystery oil was and he never did tell me....thanks man

 

[jigisup]

I got his break-in oil right here but see, I don't think you need to do oil change at 100. do it at 600 like he said.

 

[06BUSA]

BS is correct. Its ok to change that early if it will make you feel good. But not needed. If you do change it that early remember you still have alot more break-in miles to go. So change the oil again between 600-1000.

 

[DaCol.]

I wouldn't change at 100 miles, it's just too soon. Your breakin oil is just normal oil, except during the breakin you get the most metal in the oil. It takes time for all the parts to wear in and smooth the parts together. Just wait until 600 , change oil and filter, and GOOOOOOOOO  

 

[bigoltool]

Huge load of B.S. there! Back in my Volkswagen days ( high school) my dad told me to break in a new engine with "non-detergeant" oil for the first 500 miles. The thinking was that the lack of additives would force the metal bits to find harmony a bit faster. Try finding an oil anymore that has no additives! The Break in oil the dealer is referring to is a sham! Change it at will but be sure to change the filter! And BTW the Magnusson-Moss act allows us to do this without voiding the warranty!

 

[ozz]

Thanks guy's thats what i thought but i wanted to here it from you just to be sure....maybe the guy was just trying to convince me to do it at 600 miles.

I will follow all your advice and change at 600 and again at 1000 with a new filter.

I do have one other thing i wanted to run by you all....I have only put 80 miles on her so far but i already hear some ticking that wasent there the first 60 miles or so. The ticking comes on at about 4000 rpm and goes right away after i climb pass that rpm. It dosent tick before 4000rpm just at 4000rpm and then goes away.

Does this sound normal for a new 1000?....is it o.k?....I know i am being anal about my new ride but its new and love her and i want to give her the same care as my busa

and thanks for all your help guys rob

 

[ozz]

and oh ya, thats good to know about that Magnusson-Moss act too.....thanks bigoltool!

 

[Turbo-Torch]

Definitely change it at 100 and again at 600. You're breaking in an entire engine and transmission, not just seating rings.

If you have time to kill, drag a magnet through the used oil or cut open the old oil filter and when you see what's inside you'll be glad you changed it early.

 

[ozz]

Definitely change it at 100 and again at 600.  You're breaking in an entire engine and transmission, not just seating rings.  

If you have time to kill, drag a magnet through the used oil or cut open the old oil filter and when you see what's inside you'll be glad you changed it early.

Thanks Turbo....guess it wont hurt anyway if i did change it at 100, so ya, tommorrow i am gonna score the filter and oil and just do it so i wont worry....anybody else have some input about it? thanks for the advice.......

 

[Tufbusa]

I usually get two new bikes every year, a busa and a gixxer. I break them all in the same, "Hard Break in". My son races a gixxer and he breaks his in on the dyno with the hard treatment as well. Our experience with many new bikes, is you will gain at least two maybe three or four additional horses with the hard treatment as well as less oil consumption. I change the oil after the break in which takes 75 to 100 miles then again at 500 miles or so to make sure I get all the metal particles generated from the break in out of the oil system. From there I change the oil every 3,500 miles with plain old Suzuki oil. Never have I had an engine failure and they all run strong.

 

[Over_Easy]

I usually get two new bikes every year, a busa and a gixxer. I break them all in the same, "Hard Break in". My son races a gixxer and he breaks his in on the dyno with the hard treatment as well. Our experience with many new bikes, is you will gain at least two maybe three or four additional horses with the hard treatment as well as less oil consumption. I change the oil after the break in which takes 75 to 100 miles then again at 500 miles or so to make sure I get all the metal particles generated from the break in out of the oil system. From there I change the oil every 3,500 miles with plain old Suzuki oil. Never have I had an engine failure and they all run strong.

Hey Tuf,

I read where you said it's broken in on the dyno, but isn't actual acceleration on the pavement going to seat the rings correctly due to actual compression? You don't get that on a dyno. It's like revving the engine in space...no resistance, hence different workload/compression.

Am I off base here?

 

[jigisup]

I usually get two new bikes every year, a busa and a gixxer. I break them all in the same, "Hard Break in". My son races a gixxer and he breaks his in on the dyno with the hard treatment as well. Our experience with many new bikes, is you will gain at least two maybe three or four additional horses with the hard treatment as well as less oil consumption. I change the oil after the break in which takes 75 to 100 miles then again at 500 miles or so to make sure I get all the metal particles generated from the break in out of the oil system. From there I change the oil every 3,500 miles with plain old Suzuki oil. Never have I had an engine failure and they all run strong.

Everyone bashes stock suzuki oil. Johnny cheese even called it "horse piss" yet you prefer to use suzuki oil on your bikes.

What gives?

I myself used suzuki oil exclusively on my first beginner bike and had zero problems. Bike ran very strong. I come here after buying a busa and I find people dissing and beating on stock oil like a red headed step child....

 

[Tufbusa]

I usually get two new bikes every year, a busa and a gixxer. I break them all in the same, "Hard Break in". My son races a gixxer and he breaks his in on the dyno with the hard treatment as well. Our experience with many new bikes, is you will gain at least two maybe three or four additional horses with the hard treatment as well as less oil consumption. I change the oil after the break in which takes 75 to 100 miles then again at 500 miles or so to make sure I get all the metal particles generated from the break in out of the oil system. From there I change the oil every 3,500 miles with plain old Suzuki oil. Never have I had an engine failure and they all run strong.

Hey Tuf,

I read where you said it's broken in on the dyno, but isn't actual acceleration on the pavement going to seat the rings correctly due to actual compression?  You don't get that on a dyno.  It's like revving the engine in space...no resistance, hence different workload/compression.

Am I off base here?

Acceleration and compression is what seats the rings. The better the ring seat, the better the compression. Dyno break in is a great way to seat the rings. You have total control of the process and it only takes about an hour.

Both my son and I got new GSXR1K's in 2005 on the same day. He hauled his to the Dyno before it was ever started and I hauled mine home and preped it for it's maiden voyage with a hard break in. There is a proceedure I follow to the tee and it seems to work quite well. Once both bikes were broken we put them on the dyno, same day, back to back and both bikes were within .14 HP of each other. Practically identical. So it seems there is little difference in the dyno breakin and a street breakin if done properly?

 

[Tufbusa]

I usually get two new bikes every year, a busa and a gixxer. I break them all in the same, "Hard Break in". My son races a gixxer and he breaks his in on the dyno with the hard treatment as well. Our experience with many new bikes, is you will gain at least two maybe three or four additional horses with the hard treatment as well as less oil consumption. I change the oil after the break in which takes 75 to 100 miles then again at 500 miles or so to make sure I get all the metal particles generated from the break in out of the oil system. From there I change the oil every 3,500 miles with plain old Suzuki oil. Never have I had an engine failure and they all run strong.

Everyone bashes stock suzuki oil.  Johnny cheese even called it "horse piss" yet you prefer to use suzuki oil on your bikes.

What gives?  

I myself used suzuki oil exclusively on my first beginner bike and had zero problems.  Bike ran very strong.  I come here after buying a busa and I find people dissing and beating on stock oil like a red headed step child....

I think the cheese man runs some high HP stuff? If you have massive HP it becomes a different game. All my bikes have been basicly stock except for minor changes here and there the may tweak slightly more HP but for all practical purposes all have been stock. I think suzuki oil is fine and dandy for stock engines. IMO when you add HP you always add heat. You can't generate additional HP without generating additional heat. As you generate more heat, one would think that's where the synthetic oils would come into play as they remain stable at higher temps than does dino oil.

I converted two of my suzuki's, one gixxer & one busa, to synthetic and both began using oil. Not a lot of oil but enough that I would add oil every 500 miles. The gixxer's clutch didn't like the synthetic either. I went back to suzuki oil and the oil consumption dried up on both bikes and no more clutch issues with the gixxer. So for me, I find the cheap stuff works just dandy. Lots of guys love the synthetic oils and I think it's great stuff. But in most cases, I think it's over kill.

 

[jigisup]

I personally have used most of the named "good" stuff. mobil mx4t, castrol r4, silkolene etc. My butt dyno can't tell a difference what so ever from stock suzuki oil. Stealership wrench monkys use cheapest castrol stuff. My busa runs fine with it. In fact it runs fine with synthetic or semi-synth. Doesn't burn a drop of oil at 16k miles. So at this point, i'm kind of leery at buying expensive oils.

With that said, cheeseman said - not that I worship his ass or anything - "stock oil has built in obsolecense(sp?) factor. To me he seem to be implying It's design to wear out your motor so You'll buy a new bike in a few years. He said not to use stock oil on any busa , stock or modified.

It makes me wonder... how does one exactly build in some obsolescense factor into a bottle of motor oil.... hmmm.

 

[Vic_E55_2001]

IWith that said,  cheeseman said - not that I worship his ass or anything - "stock oil has built in obsolecense(sp?) factor.  To me he seem to be implying It's design to wear out your motor so You'll buy a new bike in a few years.  He said not to use stock oil on any busa , stock or modified.

He also said NOT to use air filter at all, it can not affect longetivity of the engine.....

 

[ozz]

I usually get two new bikes every year, a busa and a gixxer. I break them all in the same, "Hard Break in". My son races a gixxer and he breaks his in on the dyno with the hard treatment as well. Our experience with many new bikes, is you will gain at least two maybe three or four additional horses with the hard treatment as well as less oil consumption. I change the oil after the break in which takes 75 to 100 miles then again at 500 miles or so to make sure I get all the metal particles generated from the break in out of the oil system. From there I change the oil every 3,500 miles with plain old Suzuki oil. Never have I had an engine failure and they all run strong.

Hey Tuf,

I read where you said it's broken in on the dyno, but isn't actual acceleration on the pavement going to seat the rings correctly due to actual compression?  You don't get that on a dyno.  It's like revving the engine in space...no resistance, hence different workload/compression.

Am I off base here?

Acceleration and compression is what seats the rings. The better the ring seat, the better the compression. Dyno break in is a great way to seat the rings. You have total control of the process and it only takes about an hour.

Both my son and I got new GSXR1K's in 2005 on the same day. He hauled his to the Dyno before it was ever started and I hauled mine home and preped it for it's maiden voyage with a hard break in. There is a proceedure I follow to the tee and it seems to work quite well. Once both bikes were broken we put them on the dyno, same day, back to back and both bikes were within .14 HP of each other. Practically identical. So it seems there is little difference in the dyno breakin and a street breakin if done properly?

Tuf, I rode mine home thru the canyons about 50 miles or so. The first five miles i never got out of third gear, just 1,2,3,3,2,1 and so on. Once i got in the open and some road in front of me i shifted thru the gears but never exceeded maybe 10 grand. I would speed up and then let the compression slow me down and went passed the 6500rpm limit for break in while doing it 8 or 10 times. The rest of the time I stayed under 6500 but shifted alot.

I'm thinkin now at 80 miles on the OD I should let it rip a few times and let it slow down on compression until i reach 100 miles and then change the oil.

How quick do the rings seat? Does it take about 75 to 100 miles for the rings to seat? I'm thinking that if one was to do the "ride it hard" break in maybe i should of rode it harder the first 5 miles.

Anyways just out of curiosty, what did your 05 dyno at?