Cut seat advantages

With just 9 psi aren’t you concerned that you might have the wheel rotate more than the tire? Does anyone use rim locks with such low psi?
No beadlocks here. As you can see the shrink Wall is doing its job. I'm asking a lot of this tire in this pass. But it never spun off the rim. I know it's not a street-legal hookup or anything. But it's still chose that you can dump a clutch and I worry about the bead breaking from the rim...
July1 second day of DSE series 2012 Rob Hyabusa.jpg
 
They don't flip because they run wheelie bars. Not going to say any more about this. Right or wrong everyone has their own opinion on strapping. I will say I rarely get the front end of my busa more then a couple inches off the ground at the track. But if I were to stand it straight up. I want all my front suspension working when I come down. The right adjustment on the rear shock. And a little skill at letting the clutch out as you roll the throttle on will do much more for keeping the front down then a strap.
That was my thought too. I was just waiting before someone else would point that out. So much wrong info in this threat again!
Thanks for people like you and especially @Mr Brown
 
I guess this was sent to me in a private messages. I didn't see it in the forum. I would like to share it with everyone...
@Motonutz916 you clesrly have no idea what you're talking about, please stop spreading inaccurate information before you get somebody hurt.
Regarding tire pressure, you want as much as you can in both tires. For the front run the recommended pressure, for the rear start with the recommended pressure and if it spins, reduce it a lb at a time until it hooks. Higher pressure means less rolling resistance, which in turn means quicker ETs.

So I guess I've been wrong the 35+ years I've been doing this. Never to old to learn something.:)
 
I guess this was sent to me in a private messages. I didn't see it in the forum. I would like to share it with everyone...
@Motonutz916 you clesrly have no idea what you're talking about, please stop spreading inaccurate information before you get somebody hurt.
Regarding tire pressure, you want as much as you can in both tires. For the front run the recommended pressure, for the rear start with the recommended pressure and if it spins, reduce it a lb at a time until it hooks. Higher pressure means less rolling resistance, which in turn means quicker ETs.

So I guess I've been wrong the 35+ years I've been doing this. Never to old to learn something.:)
If this was sent you in a private message I apologize. I know how to drag race but I don't know how to use computers
 
I guess this was sent to me in a private messages. I didn't see it in the forum. I would like to share it with everyone...
@Motonutz916 you clesrly have no idea what you're talking about, please stop spreading inaccurate information before you get somebody hurt.
Regarding tire pressure, you want as much as you can in both tires. For the front run the recommended pressure, for the rear start with the recommended pressure and if it spins, reduce it a lb at a time until it hooks. Higher pressure means less rolling resistance, which in turn means quicker ETs.

So I guess I've been wrong the 35+ years I've been doing this. Never to old to learn something.:)
That's a quote of what I posted....not sure why it came to you via PM. I posted it openly.
 
They don't flip because they run wheelie bars. Not going to say any more about this. Right or wrong everyone has their own opinion on strapping. I will say I rarely get the front end of my busa more then a couple inches off the ground at the track. But if I were to stand it straight up. I want all my front suspension working when I come down. The right adjustment on the rear shock. And a little skill at letting the clutch out as you roll the throttle on will do much more for keeping the front down then a strap.
I don't know how to cut and paste. but Google check 'do top fuel dragsters use wheeliebars'?' "in any given pass, the wheelie bars may not even touch the ground"
 
I don't know how to cut and paste. but Google check 'do top fuel dragsters use wheeliebars'?' "in any given pass, the wheelie bars may not even touch the ground"

vegter.320-1.jpg


DRAG_RACE.jpg


I guess those pics show everything you need to know. You dont even need to know much about physics to understand what is going on here!

(hint: it has NOTHING to do with straps or front suspension!)
 
No beadlocks here. As you can see the shrink Wall is doing its job. I'm asking a lot of this tire in this pass. But it never spun off the rim. I know it's not a street-legal hookup or anything. But it's still chose that you can dump a clutch and I worry about the bead breaking from the rim...View attachment 1605543
"but it still shows that you can dump the clutch and not worry about the bead breaking off the rim"

(Sorry I misspoke)
 
I guess this was sent to me in a private messages. I didn't see it in the forum. I would like to share it with everyone...
@Motonutz916 you clesrly have no idea what you're talking about, please stop spreading inaccurate information before you get somebody hurt.
Regarding tire pressure, you want as much as you can in both tires. For the front run the recommended pressure, for the rear start with the recommended pressure and if it spins, reduce it a lb at a time until it hooks. Higher pressure means less rolling resistance, which in turn means quicker ETs.

So I guess I've been wrong the 35+ years I've been doing this. Never to old to learn something.:)
holy cow I just read your thread everything you said that's right his wrong you've been doing it for 35 years everything you said in that statement is completely wrong you're the one spreading bad information that's going to get someone hurt. Or at least not making proper pass wow man wow you that's I don't know what to say
 
holy cow I just read your thread everything you said that's right his wrong you've been doing it for 35 years everything you said in that statement is completely wrong you're the one spreading bad information that's going to get someone hurt. Or at least not making proper pass wow man wow you that's I don't know what to say
Look at her drag Tire. It's 1 and 3/4 in. Minimal resistance. on a street bike tire you should go at least 10 lb over on a shinko hook up 12 to 13 lb on a drag slick 9 lb depending on the weather...
 
holy cow I just read your thread everything you said that's right his wrong you've been doing it for 35 years everything you said in that statement is completely wrong you're the one spreading bad information that's going to get someone hurt. Or at least not making proper pass wow man wow you that's I don't know what to say
Ummmm......what?
I think you're trying to say I disagreed with @Popie , I don't. What he said is on point.
What you said about the reason fuel cars not pulling wheelies because they don't have front suspension is completely, utterly and totally wrong.
Try and keep up here, I'll explain it to you. When fuel cars launch, the wheelie bars hit the track. A lot of teams use chalk on the little wheels on the bar to indicate where the bars came down. If the bars fail, the car WILL go over backwards. Rails, which fuel cars are, don't have front suspension because the chassis is designed to flex enough to absorb bumps on the track. That's why you sometimes see them bouncing up and down at the big end or on the return road. So yeah, I said you are giving bad info out because you were.
Your bike doesn't break the tire bead because it's not making enough power to do so. Has nothing to do with the tire brand or model. Tire pressure is dependent on far more than the weather. Start with recommended pressure and decrease until the track will hold it. Saying a blanket 9lbs is also bad information.
You say you've been drag racing 35 years, maybe you should act like it. I know kids who race Jr dragsters that know more about racing than you do.
 
Ummmm......what?
I think you're trying to say I disagreed with @Popie , I don't. What he said is on point.
What you said about the reason fuel cars not pulling wheelies because they don't have front suspension is completely, utterly and totally wrong.
Try and keep up here, I'll explain it to you. When fuel cars launch, the wheelie bars hit the track. A lot of teams use chalk on the little wheels on the bar to indicate where the bars came down. If the bars fail, the car WILL go over backwards. Rails, which fuel cars are, don't have front suspension because the chassis is designed to flex enough to absorb bumps on the track. That's why you sometimes see them bouncing up and down at the big end or on the return road. So yeah, I said you are giving bad info out because you were.
Your bike doesn't break the tire bead because it's not making enough power to do so. Has nothing to do with the tire brand or model. Tire pressure is dependent on far more than the weather. Start with recommended pressure and decrease until the track will hold it. Saying a blanket 9lbs is also bad information.
You say you've been drag racing 35 years, maybe you should act like it. I know kids who race Jr dragsters that know more about racing than you do.
@Popie your points about strapped front ends are well taken, I personally feel the benefits (mainly the inability of the forks to help push the front wheel up) outweigh the possibility of danger.
@Motonutz916 you clesrly have no idea what you're talking about, please stop spreading inaccurate information before you get somebody hurt.
Regarding tire pressure, you want as much as you can in both tires. For the front run the recommended pressure, for the rear start with the recommended pressure and if it spins, reduce it a lb at a time until it hooks. Higher pressure means less rolling resistance, which in turn means quicker ETs.
What's up with this thread it's gone completely screw you man I can't reply properly I don't know what's going to show up when I push post

IMG_20190919_102748444.jpg


20141115_143552.jpg
 
What's up with this thread it's gone completely screw you man I can't reply properly I don't know what's going to show up when I push post

View attachment 1605546

View attachment 1605547
Okay eliminate the seat completely. The first picture shows a catalyst 16 over. that's that little front seat is what you sit on you have to fabricate a bar to put underneath it in front of the battery so it doesn't break some people put a half inch of foam for comfort but you only sitting on the bike for 8 seconds so who cares. the picture of the drag bike shows how low the seat is 4 inches lower than a stock bike. sitting on it just sitting on it you can realize how nimble it is even though it's a hundred pounds lighter you can feel the centre of gravity is much different!
 
I don't know how to cut and paste. but Google check 'do top fuel dragsters use wheeliebars'?' "in any given pass, the wheelie bars may not even touch the ground"
That is very true. The bar may not touch the ground on some passes. That's because of how the onboard computer applies the clutch and power to the wheels. Nothing to do with the front axle being rigid. And if the setup is wrong. They can hit the bar so hard it will break the tires loose. Again nothing to do with the front axle. If you look at the NHRA rule book it is mandatory to have a bar on a Top Fuel Dragster. There a reason for that.

bar1.jpg


bar2.jpg


NHRA Top Fuel Dragster.JPG
 
Ummmm......what?
I think you're trying to say I disagreed with @Popie , I don't. What he said is on point.
What you said about the reason fuel cars not pulling wheelies because they don't have front suspension is completely, utterly and totally wrong.
Try and keep up here, I'll explain it to you. When fuel cars launch, the wheelie bars hit the track. A lot of teams use chalk on the little wheels on the bar to indicate where the bars came down. If the bars fail, the car WILL go over backwards. Rails, which fuel cars are, don't have front suspension because the chassis is designed to flex enough to absorb bumps on the track. That's why you sometimes see them bouncing up and down at the big end or on the return road. So yeah, I said you are giving bad info out because you were.
Your bike doesn't break the tire bead because it's not making enough power to do so. Has nothing to do with the tire brand or model. Tire pressure is dependent on far more than the weather. Start with recommended pressure and decrease until the track will hold it. Saying a blanket 9lbs is also bad information.
You say you've been drag racing 35 years, maybe you should act like it. I know kids who race Jr dragsters that know more about racing than you do.
There's buddy you know a a little about alot but you know nothing about me!
 
Back
Top