Cut seat advantages

Neophyte

Neophyte

Registered
I have a bit of a noob drag racing question. What are the advantages of having the rider's seat cut or stripped down for drag racing? I have searched a fair bit and most just talk about the actual cutting. Many cut for street use because of short legs etc. The one thing I do understand about the lower seat is better control of the bike at the start line but does the lower position (aka center of gravity) make a noticeable difference in times or launch?
 
Neophyte said:
I have a bit of a noob drag racing question. What are the advantages of having the rider's seat cut or stripped down for drag racing? I have searched a fair bit and most just talk about the actual cutting. Many cut for street use because of short legs etc. The one thing I do understand about the lower seat is better control of the bike at the start line but does the lower position (aka center of gravity) make a noticeable difference in times or launch?
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When I raced the low seat made for much better launches and the feeling of sitting (in) vs (on) the bike was also a bonus. By 2nd gear my elbows were tucked and my helmet was on the tank. Didn’t think of pulling my feet up until 3rd gear.
 
Lower center of gravity aids in control and speed.
As wuzza suggests, the feeling of being 'in' rather than 'on" the bike is important.
If you get a stepped seat it will hold you in place so you don't slide back as you launch.
I recommend buying a second seat, either a dedicated drag seat or a used (beat up ones are cheap, and you're going to cut it up anyway) stock seat if you're going to modify it yourself. That way you have a comfortable riding seat when you're not racing.
 
Mr Brown said:
Lower center of gravity aids in control and speed.
As wuzza suggests, the feeling of being 'in' rather than 'on" the bike is important.
If you get a stepped seat it will hold you in place so you don't slide back as you launch.
I recommend buying a second seat, either a dedicated drag seat or a used (beat up ones are cheap, and you're going to cut it up anyway) stock seat if you're going to modify it yourself. That way you have a comfortable riding seat when you're not racing.
Click to expand...

I found a spare torn seat which I stripped down totally. Because of it being wider than the rails I cut the sides so it doesn't push my legs apart so much and I cut down the rubber supports too. It is now nearly like sitting on the battery. I just want to fill the voids in it to make it smooth. Now I just need to add something to prevent me from sliding back when I launch. I like the low position it gives and it feels like I will have much better control at the start line. My everyday riding seat does have a step at the back and I love it as I don'r slide back when accelerating hard.

I know that I must get extended swing-arm too for the further benefit that gives on the strip but currently I am way too cash strapped.

Just lowered but without strapping the front down, with the "normal" seat and without the extended swing-arm I managed a 6.72 on the 1/8 mile at my first official racing event I attended last month.

We are going again coming Sunday but this time with the "cut" seat and with strapping the front end. Might still be quite a few months before I will have the spare cash for extending the swing-arm.
 
You can use spray foam to fill the voids, or go to a craft store and buy a piece of foam to glue in place. Either way make sure it's dense enough that you can shape it with a knife. Build a step and then cover the whole thing with fabric.
When you strap the forks be sure and leave an inch or so of travel, that way when you land a wheelie it won't bounce straight back up.
6.72 stock wb is nothing to be ashamed of, well done.
 
Neophyte said:
We are going again coming Sunday but this time with the "cut" seat and with strapping the front end. Might still be quite a few months before I will have the spare cash for extending the swing-arm.
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Don't care how many people say to strap. I'm not a fan of it. Do you understand the why you're doing that? A lot of guys strap just because they saw someone else do it. Or a friend told them to.
 
Popie said:
Don't care how many people say to strap. I'm not a fan of it. Do you understand the why you're doing that? A lot of guys strap just because they saw someone else do it. Or a friend told them to.
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The strapping part I understand yes to get the front-end that tad lower and get lower c.o.g. and help with less weight transfer to the back. But I do hear what you say about not having it too tight.

My buddy's ZZR on the other hand needs it more than my Busa because his lifts the nose a fair bit on launch even if the wheel stays grounded. His rear shock probably needs to be a bit stiffer too I think as it does squat a fair bit.
 
Popie said:
Don't care how many people say to strap. I'm not a fan of it. Do you understand the why you're doing that? A lot of guys strap just because they saw someone else do it. Or a friend told them to.
Click to expand...
Strapping is very very important. the last suspension you have in the front end the last chance you're going to do a wheelie which will slow you down. The physics says for every action there is an equal and opposite reaction. Look at the top fuel dragsters and funny cars 8000 horsepower plus and they don't flip over. Why? Because they have zero suspension in the front end.
 
Motonutz916 said:
Strapping is very very important. the last suspension you have in the front end the last chance you're going to do a wheelie which will slow you down. The physics says for every action there is an equal and opposite reaction. Look at the top fuel dragsters and funny cars 8000 horsepower plus and they don't flip over. Why? Because they have zero suspension in the front end.
Click to expand...
Sorry not last, least
 
Motonutz916 said:
Strapping is very very important. the last suspension you have in the front end the last chance you're going to do a wheelie which will slow you down. The physics says for every action there is an equal and opposite reaction. Look at the top fuel dragsters and funny cars 8000 horsepower plus and they don't flip over. Why? Because they have zero suspension in the front end.
Click to expand...
They don't flip because they run wheelie bars. Not going to say any more about this. Right or wrong everyone has their own opinion on strapping. I will say I rarely get the front end of my busa more then a couple inches off the ground at the track. But if I were to stand it straight up. I want all my front suspension working when I come down. The right adjustment on the rear shock. And a little skill at letting the clutch out as you roll the throttle on will do much more for keeping the front down then a strap.
 
This is me...even the rear tire pressure is my normal street pressure...will be trying a slightly lower pressure come Sunday. Thought about dropping to about 22 to 25 psi.

69904613_534090474005942_2107408313183371264_c.jpg
 
WuzzaCBXRider said:
With just 9 psi aren’t you concerned that you might have the wheel rotate more than the tire? Does anyone use rim locks with such low psi?
Click to expand...
No, been running that psi for a few years on the Busa. The Shinko Ultra Soft grips the track and the rim really well. I run 9.5psi in the MT slick on my Gixxer. Been running that bike for almost 10 years without any trouble. I have several friends that run car tire bikes. They run screws thru the rim into the tire bead. They need to. There's a lot more power and traction there.
 
@Popie your points about strapped front ends are well taken, I personally feel the benefits (mainly the inability of the forks to help push the front wheel up) outweigh the possibility of danger.
@Motonutz916 you clesrly have no idea what you're talking about, please stop spreading inaccurate information before you get somebody hurt.
Regarding tire pressure, you want as much as you can in both tires. For the front run the recommended pressure, for the rear start with the recommended pressure and if it spins, reduce it a lb at a time until it hooks. Higher pressure means less rolling resistance, which in turn means quicker ETs.
 
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