Cowl Brace [stripped hole] advice.

[RedFalco]

So my new inner dash panel comes in. I remount my gear/launch/shift LEDs into my new piece and reinstall. I slowly torque down the screw that ajoins the two inner dash panels (above middle of tripple tree) waiting for the torque wrench to break/set and %$#!, the screw just starts spinning in the hole. Look down to notice torque wrench was set waay too high. Screw backs out fine, just won't tighten down the two pieces.

Looked into a new cowl brace (218.00). Any other optional advice out there to fix?
And yes, I'm gonna invest in a new set of torque tools? lol

Thank you in advance.

 

[BusaWizard]

Re-tap the hole. or get another bolt. Which one stripped?

 

[trekfuel]

Oh.. wow.... that sucks...
As well learn to work on bikes over the years we get "a feel" for things..
Not sure i would have been using a torque wrench on a shouldered fastener that is holding a plastic part.
Others will come up with an option.. perhaps a helicoil?

- How to Repair Threads With A Heli-Coil Insert[/url]

 

[BusaWhipped]

Happened to me too a while ago. Just retap and go to the next size up.

 

[Big D]

..I've tried to tell him he shouldn't be using his right hand to tighten bolts.....

Anywho, I've stripped my share of bolts. Just mosey to your local parts store (taking the bolt with you) and get the next size up, re-thread and gently hand tighten (left hand).

D

 

[Tufbusa]

I had no idea anyone really used a torque wrench on those little cowling screws?

Simply go to your local hardware or automotive store and pick up a Helicoil kit and you are good to go. Make sure you take your bolt/screw with you so you'll get the proper size. I always keep helicoils on hand just in case.

Not to worry, everyone strips a bolt every now and then, especially those little guys.

 

[Blazing-Saddle]

Happened to me too a while ago. Just retap and go to the next size up.

I've had to the same; drill, retap next size up. Easy fix....

 

[AZ Glen]

Re-tap the hole. or get another bolt. Which one stripped?

Yes, before you try the other items above just run a tap thru it that is the same size, put some blue loc-tite on your bolt and thread it in. no need to crank it down and since you might not tighten as much as required the loc tite will keep it from backin out.

 

[RedFalco]

Yeah, its the hole itself that is stripped not the bolt. (Tried a new bolt I had on hand to be sure)
I've asked the stealership service shop at my 6k mile checkup about the torque on all those hexhead fairing type bolts and they instructed 13 lb-ft. I usually keep one torque socket set @ 13 and leave it alone just for the purpose of those fairing bolts. Think at one point I read the service manual cover to back looking for that spec, never did see, so I went w/ the 13.
So if I went the next size up, the ajoining plastics are counter sunk specifically to accept that hexhead shoulder type of bolt. Its' not like lowes or hd carries these things is it? I will try and retap the hole (same size) as said next.
Liking the Heli-Coil Insert suggestion also but will this work on this application? I believe the hole has no bottom. It passes through the sheet metal of the brace maybe an 1/8 thick.

Happened to me too a while ago. Just retap and go to the next size up.

Did you use the same type of hexhead shoulder bolt? Or just another type of bolt all together.

 

[RedFalco]

No go on the retap. 0.8 tap that is required for this hole, it is wobbly and I can hand turn the tap all the way down into the hole once started. And back it out again by hand.
Option two next; retap to next biggest size and go with an after market type hexhead or comperable screwbolt. Off to lowes, find a next size up boltscrew, then head over to stealership and see if they have a similar size hexhead shoulder screw from that found in lowes.

 

[Mr Bogus]

13ft lbs? I dont think so.. hand tight/ and a little tweak further

 

[mike1180]

In other areas, I have mixed up some JB Weld epoxy and filled the stripped hole, and then drilled it out to size and retapped it.
It will hold - not much force there.
Saves having to get a different tap and bolt. JMO

 

[Mr Bogus]

hmmm great time for some brass brazing rod.. not much stress to hold.. just tag it with a bit of brass, drill and tap? a lot easier than gas weld or wire feed.

 

[GSXcite]

You could also JB weld a nut to the back side of the support

 

[mike1180]

You could also JB weld a nut to the back side of the support

Even better!

 

[RedFalco]

13ft lbs? I dont think so.. hand tight/ and a little tweak further; hmmm great time for some brass brazing rod.. not much stress to hold.. just tag it with a bit of brass, drill and tap? a lot easier than gas weld or wire feed.

So it is written; I shall hand tighten and tweak alittle further here on out..ty..
Never really braz'd' anything before, would'nt feel comfortable trying that unless I stripped the whole front down to the cowl brace, allot of plastic around that area suceptable to the unskilled brazer.. (maybe thats' what it'll take if I wanna do it right) I'll have to read up on the howto's' and equipment required.

In other areas, I have mixed up some JB Weld epoxy and filled the stripped hole, and then drilled it out to size and retapped it.
It will hold - not much force there.
Saves having to get a different tap and bolt. JMO

I'm liking that idea and if its' a no go on that, I can revert to the brazing direction. I believe JB would just melt out if heat were to be applied, right?

You could also JB weld a nut to the back side of the support

Even better!

Can't get to the reverse side as it is within the hallow tube of the cowl brace. I've thought about getting one of those clips that are used for the side cowls, cutting it in half then using the half with the threads on it and JB welding it to the top of the hole flush?
???
Just got back from lowes and the only "next size" up is a 1.0mm hex head type of bolt. It would look real ghetto, so thats a no go.

 

[S-R Racing]

If you go the route of stripping it down to get to brace in hand, try drilling a hole in the backside of the tube just big enough to allow a nut of the same pitch/threads of the original to set into the tube, then apply JB around it and screw the bolt in from the front to hold it in place while the JB dries.For the limited amount of stress on this, should hold fine

 

[cipher5791]

Lost my bolt a week ago in the garage. I don't even notice that it's not there. I wouldn't worry about it. Only you will notice it is not there unless you point it out. If it troubles you, try S-R Racing's tip.

In the future never use a torque wrench on any of the fairing bolts.

 

[Strife]

Not a very stressed area. Can probably get away with throwing some Glue(not some insiane industrial strength) down in there and then putting in the bolt. Basically you just made a Pin set up by stripping it.

Retapping is the correct way though.

 

[RedFalco]

Thanks again all, think I'm gonna use abit of everyones advice here and don't let it bother me this season and strip er' down over the winter and learn how to braze. I might be hearing things but I swear I got the slightest rattle at speeds, put my thumb down and apply pressure over the hole and its gone.

It looks like if I wanted to get to the underside and put a bolt up there, I'd have to remove the entire cowl brace whereby I could get to it from the front of the brace as shown. But for all that work, may as well learn how to braze and do er right. Got some farm implements that I could practice on first...
Thanks again all- lesson learned. Moral of this post -NO TORQUE wrenches used for hex fairing bolts; hand tighten and little tweek.
On a brighter note- gear/launch/shift leds mounted in a new inner. Wooot!