Couple Rookie Questions

Dark3

Registered
I have a +6 track dynamics unbraced arm/EKzvx3 chain set up on a 2013. Stock motor with boltons and tuning. Bike runs really strong for what it is. Possible small dose of spray possible soon. Is this safe for 1 mile races? It feels really good on the street. Currently running 18/45 but would probly drop down to 42 in the rear especially on spray.

Really I just want to be confident in the machine. Thoughts? Looking to join a one mile event soon. Thanks guys
 
I'm no LSR expert , but now your in a 64" wheel base range . Usually added wheel base makes a bike more stable over a short wheelbase . However the Design on the Hayabusa is already very stable @ high speeds from the factory . I think many factors like the lowering , suspension changes will be more of a factor than the length increase . This link will be a good read for you .

http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com/4125/mngr/rake-and-trail-explained.aspx
 
Oh Im sorry guys, I am refferring to if the stretch is safe. The spray I was using for a reference of how much power the bike will make.
 
The stretch is safe if you have the chain adjusted properly but I honestly wouldn't run it that long. The tracks are un-prepped so you are more than likely going to be spinning on the big end and spraying will just make it worse. But there are many factors that play into all of it so all you can do is try it. Depending where you go, you'll have to make license runs and step up in speeds so you can see what it does from 125, 150, 175, 200, etc.

Also, for 1-mile your gearing is all wrong. If you're a small rider, it hooks and all stars line up....you will be into the limiter with the spray.

What's your size and weight? What rear tire and size? What other mods? How much power does it make N/A and nitrous? What RPM are you flashed to?
 
I agree with everything that Got-Busa? says above. The only thing I would add from my N/A experience is not to get too greedy on gearing. If you are stock motored, 190/50 tire and flashed to 12,000 rpm with no nitrous I'd start my gearing at +1 in the rear, log the data and see how it compares to where your power rpm is on the dyno then adjust from there.
 
I agree with everything that Got-Busa? says above. The only thing I would add from my N/A experience is not to get too greedy on gearing. If you are stock motored, 190/50 tire and flashed to 12,000 rpm with no nitrous I'd start my gearing at +1 in the rear, log the data and see how it compares to where your power rpm is on the dyno then adjust from there.

I think you meant -1 on the rear. +1 would make him go slower if he's got all the bolt-on's + nitrous. Unless he's a really big guy, I would have him go -2. ;)
 
Definitely -1 on the rear running nitrous, in my experience and observations running production bikes without power adders gearing is critical.
We ran consistent 205 at Mojave using +1 in the back with a 190/55 rear pulling 11,200 ish out the back end. When we dropped to stock gearing the bike wouldn't pull the rpms and slowed down to 201.
I've haven't used power adders yet so my gearing advice is based on production engines.
 
Definitely -1 on the rear running nitrous, in my experience and observations running production bikes without power adders gearing is critical.
We ran consistent 205 at Mojave using +1 in the back with a 190/55 rear pulling 11,200 ish out the back end. When we dropped to stock gearing the bike wouldn't pull the rpms and slowed down to 201.
I've haven't used power adders yet so my gearing advice is based on production engines.

That's what I ran before switching to Turbo also. Remember Mojave elevation is 4,900' so that's going to play into it. Also the 55-series tire is about equal to dropping a tooth on the rear. So many factors and weather, wind, rider size can all change the speeds +/- 5-10mph on a stock engine setup very easy.. ;)
 
Back
Top