Couple questions for the gurus

greg3852

Registered
Ok, so we know I threw a rod. The crank is toast. I will be needing another. I have a dual fan setup and a switch to turn them on when I want. Do I,

1) Buy another Gen 1 crank and keep it a 1397
2) Buy AtlBusa's gen 2 crank and make it a 1441

Price wise, what is cheaper? I don't know what a Gen 1 crank goes for.
Does a 1441 really run that much hotter? This bike will be used for highway riding of some long distances, and street racing.
 
I'm not a guru (unless you count spending money on going fast) but my advice is to look at what you ultimately want from the bike. For your stated goal a pump gas turbo setup would be ideal, if you're set on doing it unboosted, a 1441 with a dry shot would make a very nice street setup. Call whoever you're going to have put it together and see what the difference would be between the two. Unless you're going to do it yourself again, in which case all motor is more simple, but you have to find out where you screwed up last time, or it'll probably grenade itself again. Not saying this to be a d!ck, but to try and save you from this situation recurring.
 
Good point.
Hi. I have the Gen 1 Falicon knife edged crank. I wanted $800.00 I will take less than what I have in it $400.00. I would go with the Gen 2 crank even if you go turbo the 2 mm stroke is better than the the 2 mm bore. I am going with the + 2mm stroke but with a Marine buillet crank big $ around $3000.00 it is the best crank out there. DME bikes that ran 6,46 and 6.42 sec have them. call if you want 508-496-5680.
 
Hi. I have the Gen 1 Falicon knife edged crank. I wanted $800.00 I will take less than what I have in it $400.00. I would go with the Gen 2 crank even if you go turbo the 2 mm stroke is better than the the 2 mm bore. I am going with the + 2mm stroke but with a Marine buillet crank big $ around $3000.00 it is the best crank out there. DME bikes that ran 6,46 and 6.42 sec have them. call if you want 508-496-5680.
I'll see what Frank recommends. After this episode, I'm leaning more towards reliability than cutting edge HP. So I'm probably better sticking with the Gen 1 crank and keeping it 1397. But then again that wasn't too reliable for me. LMAO

Mike I will be in touch.
 
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Watch out for the slippery slope! Now you’re getting advise to build a new motor and turbo it. Can you reuse your pistons and if so do people use a spacer to make up the stroke diff. with the gen 2 crank? I would think the spacer is Mickey Mouse compared to correct pistons? Will you have too much compression if you use your current pistons with more stroke? I think compression leads to the hot running?
 
From what I’ve read if you go gen 2 crank then you want to use gen 2 rods as they are longer and keep everything at the correct angles. I’m not going turbo.
 
I may get some dislikes here , but if you want a 1441cc big bore that is reliable,won't overheat , and ride anywhere you may just move over to the ZX14R . The 14R block is part of the upper case , Kawasaki does a mild hand port on every ZX14R head . Out of the box you have what that 1397 made . Exhaust , and trim some fat you have a 205 to 210 rear wheel hp machine .

Building motors / racing there is ALWAYS a chance for failure . The more the edge is pushed the greater the chances . Greg I love to go fast , but even as a person who can build my own it just gets trying at the end of the day . Down time , and open the wallet gets old FAST . Hence why my motor is stock . I toyed with stage 1 turbo from Rob @boosted . However doing it right ( to me ) ment going into the motor to change valves / springs .

Good luck ;)
 
I may get some dislikes here , but if you want a 1441cc big bore that is reliable,won't overheat , and ride anywhere you may just move over to the ZX14R . The 14R block is part of the upper case , Kawasaki does a mild hand port on every ZX14R head . Out of the box you have what that 1397 made . Exhaust , and trim some fat you have a 205 to 210 rear wheel hp machine .

Building motors / racing there is ALWAYS a chance for failure . The more the edge is pushed the greater the chances . Greg I love to go fast , but even as a person who can build my own it just gets trying at the end of the day . Down time , and open the wallet gets old FAST . Hence why my motor is stock . I toyed with stage 1 turbo from Rob @boosted . However doing it right ( to me ) ment going into the motor to change valves / springs .

Good luck ;)
No dislike from me, you speak the truth. I've said it before, the gen2 14 is a better bike than a gen2 Busa in every aspect except aftermarket support and those ugly George Foreman grilles.....
 
I may get some dislikes here , but if you want a 1441cc big bore that is reliable,won't overheat , and ride anywhere you may just move over to the ZX14R . The 14R block is part of the upper case , Kawasaki does a mild hand port on every ZX14R head . Out of the box you have what that 1397 made . Exhaust , and trim some fat you have a 205 to 210 rear wheel hp machine .

Building motors / racing there is ALWAYS a chance for failure . The more the edge is pushed the greater the chances . Greg I love to go fast , but even as a person who can build my own it just gets trying at the end of the day . Down time , and open the wallet gets old FAST . Hence why my motor is stock . I toyed with stage 1 turbo from Rob @boosted . However doing it right ( to me ) ment going into the motor to change valves / springs .

Good luck ;)
I agree, as I was looking up that very thing tonight. Thank god I don't have hair or I would have pulled it all out.
 
Talk to Frank and tell him exactly what you want to achieve with your bike. What YOUR overall goal is. Let him make a few suggestions and then decide which route works for you.

Frank is good at what he does from what I've read so I have no doubt in his ability to build anything. However, I am a firm believer in building what you want and not what someone decides for you.

Disclaimer: dont mean to sound like I'm stepping on anyone's toes here. Always a great idea to get ideas from people.
 
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