Could you help me understand these mod's?

[Audiomaker]

Sorry for asking all these questions but I'm trying to learn as much as possible really quickly.

I've been told the bike I'm purchasing has the following:

T3/T4 57mm turbo
Tial 38mm Wastegate (15lb spring to be changed at pickup site to 7lb)
HKS SS Blow Off Valve
Custom billiet intake manifold
Walhbro 255 pump
440cc injectors
Port & Polish
Heavy duty valve springs
ARP Head Studs
Cometic Head Gasket
.63/.80 spacer
Power Commander
18T / 39T Sprockets
Stock radiator and swing arm.

I've bolded the one's I'm really curious about. Most of the others I pretty much get, but left them so you'd have an overall understanding of the package (which I do not).

I am especially curious about the spacer... I've done all the research I can find and I'm assuming it lowers the compression....but to what? And why .63/.80? I've only found a little info on spacers and they mostly just say .80, so what's the .63 all about?

Also, looking at this setup, what is the most boost and hp you would run on 92oct for reliable street riding? Is the seller correct about 7lbs, and if so...why? What is needed to go 8 or 10 lbs reliably that isn't there?

Please understand, I have a basic idea of what all of these mod's are for, but I don't know what to expect with this specific combination of them...or why?

Could anyone please comment on why the bike might have any of these specific mod's... especially if one hasn't been commented on by others? It would just help me have a better understanding of this motor.
Also, if any of these mod's might require special attention, or a particular riding style... could you let me know?
For instance... could be something like "Cometic Head Gaskets melt if you use ethanol mixed fuel", or "Walhbro pumps have to be replaced every 2000mi" You know... something I wouldn't know.

Could you also tell me what the Power Commander is doing on this engine, and will I have to have it remapped for a lesser spring? I don't even know how, or where to get these maps... 7-11 next to the chips?

Is this motor considered a stage one or stage two and why?

I have very little experience with aftermarket turbocharged bikes....actually none unless you count reading as fast as I can for the last week.

Even generalizations would help, like "that's a pretty nervous high strung motor", or "that's a very manageable setup and reliable"...etc. etc. Anything you can think of.

The members of this board have been very helpful to me in a very short time. I really appreciate it greatly, but I'm finding myself feeling ignorant about what is actually going to be going on down there between my legs on this trip.


I won't bother the board with this too much more before I leave to pick up the bike. 6 days left.

Sean

 

[Postal]

.63/.80 spacer is a head gasket spacer to reduce compression.
Powercommander is a computer module that manages fuel flow and other things.
Billet intake is a light weight high flow (probably) intake to handle the higher fuel and air flow.
440 cc injectors are just bigger injectors I believe to support the turbo.
The 255 pump is a higher flow fuel pump I am pretty sure.

Others can feel free to chime in, I'm a little rusty, haven't had a turbo for a couple of years now.

 

[Audiomaker]

So am I to understand that the .63/.80 spacer is actually two spacers stacked together?

That's well over an inch unless it's supposed to be .063 + .080.

 

[Audiomaker]

Like to add... apparently these injectors are S2000 Honda... FWIW.

Sean

 

[black diamond busa]

OK so I DO NOT have a Turbo busa or have ever had one. I have done alot of research on them though so anything I say could be wrong. To me it looks like a nice set up. I would get it remapped for the lower boost since I have seen on here people get a new map when they just change 2psi up or down. The sprocket set up is probably geared up so you don't always blow the tire off up stand it up too fast. Sounds like fun. Any mods to the clutch? Gen1?

 

[kromdom]

curious what the seller's answers were to your questions above? best of luck.

 

[moloko]

Sounds like you shouldn't be buying a turbo bike... but good luck with it anyway.

 

[The Big Red One]

Sorry for asking all these questions but I'm trying to learn as much as possible really quickly.

I've been told the bike I'm purchasing has the following:

T3/T4 57mm turbo
Tial 38mm Wastegate (15lb spring to be changed at pickup site to 7lb)
HKS SS Blow Off Valve
Custom billiet intake manifold
Walhbro 255 pump
440cc injectors
Port & Polish
Heavy duty valve springs
ARP Head Studs
Cometic Head Gasket
.63/.80 spacer
Power Commander
18T / 39T Sprockets
Stock radiator and swing arm.

I've bolded the one's I'm really curious about. Most of the others I pretty much get, but left them so you'd have an overall understanding of the package (which I do not).

I am especially curious about the spacer... I've done all the research I can find and I'm assuming it lowers the compression....but to what? And why .63/.80? I've only found a little info on spacers and they mostly just say .80, so what's the .63 all about?

Also, looking at this setup, what is the most boost and hp you would run on 92oct for reliable street riding? Is the seller correct about 7lbs, and if so...why? What is needed to go 8 or 10 lbs reliably that isn't there?

Please understand, I have a basic idea of what all of these mod's are for, but I don't know what to expect with this specific combination of them...or why?

Could anyone please comment on why the bike might have any of these specific mod's... especially if one hasn't been commented on by others? It would just help me have a better understanding of this motor.
Also, if any of these mod's might require special attention, or a particular riding style... could you let me know?
For instance... could be something like "Cometic Head Gaskets melt if you use ethanol mixed fuel", or "Walhbro pumps have to be replaced every 2000mi" You know... something I wouldn't know.

Could you also tell me what the Power Commander is doing on this engine, and will I have to have it remapped for a lesser spring? I don't even know how, or where to get these maps... 7-11 next to the chips?

Is this motor considered a stage one or stage two and why?

I have very little experience with aftermarket turbocharged bikes....actually none unless you count reading as fast as I can for the last week.

Even generalizations would help, like "that's a pretty nervous high strung motor", or "that's a very manageable setup and reliable"...etc. etc. Anything you can think of.

The members of this board have been very helpful to me in a very short time. I really appreciate it greatly, but I'm finding myself feeling ignorant about what is actually going to be going on down there between my legs on this trip.


I won't bother the board with this too much more before I leave to pick up the bike. 6 days left.

Sean

I'll do what I can to help you Sean, but the guys who can best answer your questions are Daniel (GoldenChild) and Richard (2Wicked), they are the turbo installers/kit makers on the board. I'm sure either would be glad to answer any questions by pm, e-mail or phone. They'll hopefully be along shortly here as well.

My experience comes from boosting my zx14, and installing the kit as well. I did tons of research before hand like you, on boosting both my busa and 14.......nothing wrong with questions

The billet intake is just made from a chunk of aluminum to be lighter.
I have the same fuel pump...its been great for me.
The bigger injectors are so you can flow more fuel without maxing out the stockers......needed for higher boost levels.
The power commander modifies the stock ecu signals to control your fueling. Hopefully its already been properly tuned for you.

The gen1 busa like yours came with an 11 to 1 compression ratio stock. I believe the .80 spacer (if thats what you have) drops it to around 9.5 to 1 or so? The bike will feel a little sluggish off boost from the lower compression, but you can safely run higher boost levels that way. I'm running 8lbs of boost on the stock 12 to 1 comp ratio on my zx14.......thats cutting it close, but with a good tune, good fuel, and riding the bike reasonably to keep it alive I've had no issue in 2+ seasons of riding.
The busa with stock 11 to 1 comp could handle 8-10lbs of boost no prob from my understanding.......8 being safe and 10 cutting it closer like I am. With a spacer I personally think 7lbs on your bike is a little conservative.
But its definately not going to hurt anything. It will prolly make closer to what a stock compression engine would make on 5lbs or so of boost tho.
The seller might be trying to cover his azz so you don't blow the bike up right away and come back after him. When I sold my highly modified seca turbo I purposely dropped the boost so someone new to turbo bikes wouldn't go out and make a 5 mile wfo run, then blow it up and come back complaining to me. I told the buyer once he rode it abit I'd raise the boost back up. I talked to him months later and he said no leave it alone........I guess it was fast enough for him

I'm running an fmu (rising rate fuel pressure regulator) with stock injectors and a power commander to fine tune things........I have no prob going up and down a few lbs in boost pressure without any remapping. But there's a limit as to what stock injectors can handle. Your set-ups better with the bigger injectors and power commander doing the fuel controlling, you won't max out the injectors with higher boost levels, but I'm not sure how flexible that set-up is with big boost changes.

And except for it being a little softer off boost than a stock busa I don't see any reason why it wouldn't be a great street machine. Stage 1's are usually a turbo kit bolted to a stock motor like mine. Stage 2's are like yours. Stage 3's are internal motor mods like pistons, rods, cranks etc.

I hate to bring this up, but folks aren't always completely up front about things they're selling, especially long distance. Turbo bikes are a tricky breed, the ones I've seen for sale weren't always ready for a 2500 mile trip, they almost always had something or other needing fixing/tweaking adjusting before they were truly road ready. And they do need more tinkering with than a stock bike. But they're the most fun by FAR you can have on 2 wheels, I'll never get rid of mine
Honestly tho, owning a turbo bike myself, I would ship it back, and learn it on local roads and day trips before you head off on a cross country trip on it.

 

[Audiomaker]

Big Red,

Let me sort of work that in reverse...

First, your idea that I should probably ship the bike home is sound. I on the other hand...am probably not. I have to deliver a truck only 6 hours from where the bike is located. This allows me to see the bike in person without buying airfare. 20 minutes from that location is a known turbo tuner who has agreed to check out the bike before I return. From there, it's a matter of how durable I am...otherwise I will have to pay for shipping and also airfare home....but either way, I'm going to the location so might as well try.

I would like a conservative tune for the ride back for engine safety. Both the seller and the (non affiliated) tuner have actually suggested I could run it with the 15lb spring on the return home on 92....just don't get on it. I know myself better. The seller has no problem letting me run it around on a 350hp tune on C16, it's myself, and the nature of the trip, my inexperience, and the heat that is making me demand a conservative tune and spring.

Upon returning, I plan to get it to Goldenchild as soon as I can. He has been gracious in his offers to help me, and since I'm moving close to him within a year, it looks like he'll be my turbo guru and maybe even a bud'.
From there I will consider upping the boost to whatever we can work out is appropriate for me.

Frankly, I think I'm a closet numerologist. 3 is my lucky number, and 300rwhp even on a reliable street able bike is probably what I'll go after down the road. The numbers I see on the net are all over the place though...dyno numbers and such. I don't even know if that's possible on a pump gas daily rider? I'm sure Goldenchild will set me straight.

For another point of reference, the significant bikes I've owned over my time are: 650 Seca Turbo, Honda 750 chopper, Suzuki GS550ES, 87 Ninja 600, (5x) 82/83 Suzuki Katana Liters (still my favorite bikes), (2x) 89/91 GSXR-1100's, AMF Sportster, a 2000 special construction Evo Harley "Bobber", and my current 03 Kawi Z1000.
A few of those were pretty fast bikes, but I doubt I'll be disappointed with the Busa's performance...even off boost.

That said, I'm still wondering if the .063 / .080 spacer is actually two spacers stacked? Dunno. Maybe it's a dual deck or something? If stacked, will that bring me down to 8.5:1... like an old V8?

On the Power Commander, so that's only fuel or does it retard ignition as well? You say you can go up and down a few pounds with yours without remapping...I am going down a theoretical 8 pounds lighter... so do I need a tuner and a dyno for that? Some people talk about switching back and forth between 92/3 and C16 only changing fuel... would that require multiple maps, and does a Power Commander let you have multiple maps installed or? As I see the thing advertised as USB, I'm guessing you can upload them via computer (makes sense).

I was also told that with the 15lbs spring, I could not run less than 15lbs boost, but with the 7lbs spring and a boost controller, I could select from 7 right on back up to 15+? At least that is how I heard it. Is that right?

Also, you say yours has a FMU (new word for me), but are you suggesting because I have S2000 injectors, that won't need to get one of these gizmos?

I've also heard about being able to hurt your turbo engine by chopping the throttle too fast and coming on again too soon because the "Wideband" can't keep up. Is there really a HAM radio installed in these things?

So many questions. I really didn't want to make a new thread for each one because it's bad netiquette, so I'll try to take the crash course in this thread.
It's a little embarrassing. Normally I'd lurk a lot longer and try to figure out what all the acronyms mean and at least the basics before opening my virtual mouth, but no time.

Thanks so much.
Sean

 

[The Big Red One]

Sean, I like your sense of humour

You have the right plan having a turbo guy go over it before your trip, you'll know what you're buying, and you'll know the bikes ready for the trip

My 14 is putting out about 270hp to the rear wheel on pump gas....and with a stock swingarm like you I can't use all the power. 300hp for the street will be more than plenty. You won't believe the kind of pull you're going to have at your disposal........in fact a diaper for the test ride might come in handy
I could run around on pump gas all the time if I wanted, but I have a VP station close by so I try to run their VP100 octane StreetBlaze.......that way I can boost without worry
300hp on pump fuel with your set-up? Honestly I don't have enough experience to say, I only know what I can run. I think the .63/.80 spacer thing might mean he doesn't remember which spacer it actually has? The .80 is pretty common, not so sure about the .63.
8.5 to 1 like the old V8's......funny stuff Thats why the mid 70's V8's were literally putting out modern V6 power

You've owned some cool bikes....its funny we both owned Seca turbo's and now we've stepped up to the big leagues. The sayings true, once you ride boosted you never go back I also currently own a stretched, chromed, cammed and slammed 92 gixxer 1100 along with my 04LE busa and boosted 14.

As far as our systems go, I have an fmu that raises or lowers my fuel pressure at a ratio of 5 to 1.......5 psi of fuel pressure added for every 1 lb of boost. That way I can get more fuel through my stock injectors with pressure. But that only works up to a certain point, eventually you max out the injectors which is a very bad thing.
You most likely have a 1 to 1 reg, and you're bigger injectors flow the fuel you need without having to work the injectors as hard, plus you have one less thing in your system to fail. FMU's are known to be finicky sometimes. My main source of fuel control is my fmu...it adjusts as boost changes. My power commander just fine tunes the mix. Your power commander has much more control over the fuel mix.......not sure how that set-up would react to major boost changes. And you can set up a pc (power commander) to control ignition as well as boost.
And yep the pc can run 2 maps....alot of guys will run a pump gas map and a race fuel map.....I'm suprised your bike isn't set up that way.

The way the boost controllers work that I'm familair with is they bleed off the boost pressure your wastegate see's........so if you have a 7lb spring, it needs to see 7lbs of boost before it opens the wastegate. You can use the boost controller to bleed off boost pressure in a controlled manner, so it will take more than 7lbs of boost to open the spring. In other words by the time you get the 7lbs of pressure to open the wastegate AND overcome the boost you're bleeding off, you're actually getting more than 7 lbs to the motor.
A 15lb spring would require 15 lbs of pressure to open, and there's no way to change that. The controller would just raise it.

And as far as the ham sandwi.......I mean ham radio lol. I think you're referring to a dynojet auto-tune system. They're designed to automatically make a map for your bike on the go with an 02 sensor. I don't run one, and have been told not to by a tuner on this board among others that works with turbo's, because on a turbo bike they can't keep up safely enough to make a good map. But I also know a guy with the exact same bike and turbo set-up as me running one with no probs...but he's very careful how he tunes with it.....so not sure what to think of that atm

You have to be aware tho that the autune doesn't affect your bike as you're riding it, it only builds a map as you ride, then you have to accept the changes for the map to become permanent. So it can't hurt anything as you're riding, only after you go into the power commander software and accept the changes it recommends to you're map.

BTW where the heck are the pics of the new ride :

 

[Audiomaker]

black diamond,

HD clutch springs is all I know.

Remapped = take it to a tuner with a dyno? I've never done this.

Remapped is when my girlfriend sees a shopping mall alongside the freeway on a trip :


Sean

 

[Audiomaker]

sounds like you shouldn't be buying a turbo bike... But good luck with it anyway.

i totally agree!

 

[Audiomaker]

....in fact a diaper for the test ride might come in handy

The test ride will be on C16. Diapers however... will be inevitable whether I get this bike or not

Forgive me for not posting pic's yet. I kind of feel it jinxes me before picking up the bike. I plan to take my iPhone and another camera so hopefully I'll start posting some of the bike and the trip around the 10th.

Good Talkin'.... bed time on the West coast for strip club owners

Sean

 

[OZBooster]

Sean i would expect your fuel system is like Big Reds , the s2000 injectors are only 380cc and definitely not enough fuel for 15 psi without the FMU , if you have pics of the bike it will look like a billet flying saucer about 3" dia probably mounted in front of the plenum under the front of the tank , Like Big Red said it takes care of most of the fuel needs and the powercommander fills in the gaps, BUT as the powercommander is throttle position based , reading your throttle position and modifying the intercepted injector signal and not pressure referenced its only as good as its tuned at the boost level its tuned at, higher pressures will probably be lean and lower rich , you can put up with a few psi change but will need remapping for a big change, same as the change in fuel type will need your tuneup changed to suit. slight upside, pump gas will probably run leaner than c16 averagng the lower boost level rich somewhat
Not sure what the .063 is in reference to, maybe part of the turbo description , .
080 spacer will be safe if your tuneup is good at 10 ish psi, 10 psi on std wheelbase is lift the front in 4th territory
Your turbo system would be considered a stg 1

 

[POWERHOUSE]

How much boost you can run depends on many things, the first of which is the octane of the fuel you are using. With 92 or 93 octane, I would not run higher than a 7 lb spring in the gate, and I would also be sure some timing is pulled. Going higher on a stock motor - which is not the case here - risks detonation and possibly pushing the head gasket because stock studs suck. The ARP studs that are in this motor will prevent this from happening, and even though you can make more boost, you should not do it with pump fuel. I am sure with race fuel - like C16 - this bike will put 300 to the tire pretty easily.

Of course, if there were some type of intercooler on this bike - air/air, air/water, or even water injection - you could run pump fuel up to 13-14 pounds of boost with no problem. Since this bike apparently does not have any of these, it was most likely run on race fuel with that 15 pound spring - otherwise it would have blown up a long time ago. Going from that 15 pound spring down to a 7 pound spring will definately make the bike run fatter. Putting pump gas in a bike mapped for race fuel would make it run leaner, so making both those moves will offset one another slightly. Regardless, the change is enough that the bike should see the dyno before you go enjoying yourself.

One other thing - boost controllers, when used with internal "flapper" style gates, do indeed bleed the signal to make the boost higher than whatever static spring is initially controlling the gate. However, boost controllers used with external gates - like a 38mm Tial - put pressure on the top of the gate to increase boost.

 

[The Big Red One]

Finally one of our pro turbo tuners shows up.....welcome to the thread Frank
Sean, Frank is another one of our inhouse turbo tuners.......one of the go-to guys for any questions you may have
We have a world of expertise here

 

[GoldenChild]

I will step in and say just a few things.

1 I would post as many detailed pics as I could so we know what we looking at and see.if there is something off.

2 I would have seller send detailed pics, and he should have been able to answer all this .

3 If he doesn't know what he's selling, I would walk away as he won't be able to help you in future if you have an issue and that's gonna cost you the savings right then

4 You don't know enough even going to a non affliated shop to know if they know what they doing or telling you you need to do.

5 take this how you may. If it were me and I don't know what your paying for this bike but you could be buying someone else's headache. You could be paying too much and not even know it as your looking at cost he may tell you it cost.


6 I would grab a book, read up how efi really works, how turbos really work and find a clean busa you really want, get it,ride it and see how much more you really need. We then order you a rcc kit with right stuff and you learn it as we assemble it and do it right.


Good Luck in whatever you decide..
I'm not here to spike your punch, but to let you know others flavors might not suit you. Make your own cup.

 

[Audiomaker]

All very good advice.

4 You don't know enough even going to a non affliated shop to know if they know what they doing or telling you you need to do.

The tuner is Terry from Mr. Turbo in Houston. From what I have read, his kits are not as highly regarded as say...a RCC, but he is willing to check out the bike and set it up for the trip. Of course I cannot say with any certainty that he knows what he's doing, but he has a webpage that looks like he does

Goldenchild... I absolutely agree with all you are saying. It's just that there are a lot of external considerations at work that are allowing me to do this now...in this particular situation. I fully expect a lot of "I told you so's" through this experience, and I fully deserve every one that comes. It's just that the dynamics of this deal and trip are such that I will save thousands on the purchase vs hunting one down "locally" (there's no such thing in my po-dunk area actually...everything is far from me), and then remotely getting a system installed that by my math, I cannot get close to being able to afford. Travel time, travel expense...it all adds up, plus I won't get to attempt this little mid-life-crisis 2500mi trip that I've always wanted to do.

I really hope that you'll be forgiving of the way I have to do this and still want to hang out...or even help me with whatever mess I end up with. Everything can be changed or upgraded in time...especially when I've moved to PDX.

By the way... the seller does know what he is selling. It's just that it's all been Chinese to me and I'm sure he's got a headache from rolling his eyes so much from my questions. And the price is right too (will disclose via PM if interested).

Just quickly since I'm feeling a little defensive... I'm actually not 100% boob. I was a machinery dealer for many years and have dealt with purchasing used equipment out of people's barns to moving over twenty metric tons of machine shop stuff from Germany (CNC too). This kind of profession means you are very often getting someone else's headache. A mid level CNC is more complicated than several motorcycles combined, has hundreds if not thousands of electrical things that can go wrong, and the difference between a good one and a bad one can often come down to 10ths (ten thousandths of an inch)...actually millionths if you are talking inspection equipment. Really easy to go wrong there and it often takes multiple crews and equipment to get it home where you can get on making it right. The point being that I won't wig out if this bike needs some work, adjustments, or additions.

Trust me... I'll keep a sense of humor about the whole thing...even if I'm fighting an armadillo for cactus shade broken down on the side off the road... if you will

All the Best!
Sean

 

[GoldenChild]

Enough said I'm here regardless of what happens and door is always open. I can maybe use your help as I'm wanting to get a decent cnc machine, and a nice welder for some stuff I want to build.

Safe Journey there and back

All very good advice.




The tuner is Terry from Mr. Turbo in Houston. From what I have read, his kits are not as highly regarded as say...a RCC, but he is willing to check out the bike and set it up for the trip. Of course I cannot say with any certainty that he knows what he's doing, but he has a webpage that looks like he does

Goldenchild... I absolutely agree with all you are saying. It's just that there are a lot of external considerations at work that are allowing me to do this now...in this particular situation. I fully expect a lot of "I told you so's" through this experience, and I fully deserve every one that comes. It's just that the dynamics of this deal and trip are such that I will save thousands on the purchase vs hunting one down "locally" (there's no such thing in my po-dunk area actually...everything is far from me), and then remotely getting a system installed that by my math, I cannot get close to being able to afford. Travel time, travel expense...it all adds up, plus I won't get to attempt this little mid-life-crisis 2500mi trip that I've always wanted to do.

I really hope that you'll be forgiving of the way I have to do this and still want to hang out...or even help me with whatever mess I end up with. Everything can be changed or upgraded in time...especially when I've moved to PDX.

By the way... the seller does know what he is selling. It's just that it's all been Chinese to me and I'm sure he's got a headache from rolling his eyes so much from my questions. And the price is right too (will disclose via PM if interested).

Just quickly since I'm feeling a little defensive... I'm actually not 100% boob. I was a machinery dealer for many years and have dealt with purchasing used equipment out of people's barns to moving over twenty metric tons of machine shop stuff from Germany (CNC too). This kind of profession means you are very often getting someone else's headache. A mid level CNC is more complicated than several motorcycles combined, has hundreds if not thousands of electrical things that can go wrong, and the difference between a good one and a bad one can often come down to 10ths (ten thousandths of an inch)...actually millionths if you are talking inspection equipment. Really easy to go wrong there and it often takes multiple crews and equipment to get it home where you can get on making it right. The point being that I won't wig out if this bike needs some work, adjustments, or additions.

Trust me... I'll keep a sense of humor about the whole thing...even if I'm fighting an armadillo for cactus shade broken down on the side off the road... if you will

All the Best!
Sean

 

[Audiomaker]

Thanks Goldenchild.

5am...home from work. Last night. I sold the strip club and I'm drunk as hell after 5 years of drama and a lost marriage over it. It's part of the reason I need this tour.
My crew got me home safely....bike rolled into the club. Good crew. Ready for Portland and a new start.
Word of advice...never post when you're drunk (took 3 tries...driknk....durnk...runke). I'll ignore this rule for the moment.

Have space? Have 3phase 220vac+? Let's talk.

Sorry but all of my stuff is 3 phase. The real deal. You are welcome to borrow my Miller Deltaweld 450 MIG (100% digital including the wire feed) if you have a project or two. Great welder. Butter compared to most everything.
Soon, this stuff and all my exotic equipment (search google: Deckel FP4NC -TC, Deckel FP3 green, Weiler Matador, Weiler e40 + the worlds largest and most complete selection of accessories for those machines) will be moving to an unknown location somewhere close to you.


I kid you not... People get on planes to see my shop, and within the next year it will need to move. I'm super spoiled (well I worked hard for it) and use this stuff for personal use only.

I do it for fun. Life is short.

Need some CNC advice or a good deal? I was a buyer and personal friend for the largest used machinery dealer in the USA (Reliable Tool). I can help out.

I may not know Turbo Busa's for squat, but I know my way around a machine shop. If that's something that is of use to you, I'm happy to help....and money is just paper to me.

Guess that's all I have to say tonight

Sean