Correct coolant  replacement

'busaboy

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Love my 'busa. Little fatter than my last ZX-9 but so much more fun. One problem. Idling in very slow traffic the temp. needle creeps up to the warm side. I had to pull off the road at the Honda Hoot (Knoxville, TN), as the light came on. I pulled off, allowed it to cool, then chose an anternate route with less traffic. The fan was functioning fine, it just wouldn't cool down in traffic (slow). I have flushed the crystals from the resivoir and replaced the coolant at a 50/50 mix with prestone antifreeze, but it still gets warm idling in traffic. It has a pc2 and a Muzzy ti exhaust if that matters. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
 
Up front, I will state that I am the owner of Engine Ice, I am a bit biased and I admit it. However, most all of the products on the market are excellent products, but each has various uses and applications for them. We produce Engine Ice for specific high intensity and high heat applications. It really is not designed as an “everyday†coolant; it is for high performance applications.

There are two basic types of coolant/antifreeze, Ethylene Glycol (EG) and Propylene Glycol (PG) and then there are surfactant products such as Water Wetter from Red Line or Purple Ice from Royal Purple for example. All of the products mentioned are good products, just offering different things.

Ethylene Glycol (EG) – This is basically your “Prestone†type of products. Maxima’s Coolinol, Pro Honda Coolant and Spectro Coolant are examples of this type of product. It is basically the same as the coolant/antifreeze product you can buy at the auto parts store, but “silicate-free†or “Low-silicate.†This is important, don’t get the stuff from the auto parts store unless it’s silicate free. Most are pre-diluted for easy use; they are diluted with a more pure distilled water or deionized water (deionized water is explained below). This is better water than what you can buy at the grocery store. You really shouldn’t call an EG-based product a “coolant,†an “anti-boil†product would be more accurate. EG is made very cheaply and its primary purpose is to eliminate boil-over and to keep your system from freezing up. That’s basically it. It is not designed to actually reduce temperatures. If you are driving a car or a cruiser-type bike that does not have a temperature issue, these are fine products. EG is extremely poisonous and harmful to the environment.

Water Wetter - It is an additive product. Water Wetter is what is called a “surfactant.†What this means is that it reduces the surface tension of the water or in other words, it allows the water/fluid to “rub†closer to the metal allowing it to better draw off heat. Water Wetter works and it is good stuff. However, if you add it to an EG antifreeze product your results are minimal. Added to water, you will see a significant difference in temperature reduction. But it will not raise the boil point of the water nor does it offer any antifreeze protection. So your engine may run a bit cooler, but when it gets hot it will “spit out†the coolant before other products do. That is not good, because now you’ll have less coolant in the engine. Using more than the recommended amount (4 capfuls to a quart) is a waste and it will not make any difference, only use their recommended amount.

Propylene Glycol (PG) – This is what Engine Ice Hi-Performance Coolant and Evans Coolant is made of. Evans is 100% PG and has an extremely high boil point of well over 300oF. They recommend you make some mechanical changes and/or have difficult requirements in order to use it. So, we will eliminate them from this discussion. Engine Ice is a diluted ratio of PG and Deionized water. Propylene Glycol is biodegradable and non-toxic. PG is used in many household items such as cosmetics, hair conditioners, shampoos, hand lotions, food products and more.

The process of de-ionizing water eliminates all of the impurities that can do harm to your cooling system. Regardless if you are using tap, bottled, distilled, spring or R/O (reverse osmosis) waters, it can still contain minute particles of iron, magnesium, rust, lime and calcium. Many of these waters also contain chemicals, such as chlorine, fluorides and acids. Want proof? Take two different brands of distilled waters and perform your own taste test. They each taste different don’t they? If water were water, why would they be different? It’s because of the varying amounts of chemicals and minerals in these waters. These minerals and chemicals are what is the cause of scarring, scaling and mineral build-ups in your cooling system. Many also attribute these minerals and chemicals to water pump seal and gasket failures. Engine Ice was developed and tested in the heat and humidity of Southern Florida. Tests have proven to reduce operating race temperatures by as much as 50oF in some situations. PG is a lubricant and is a surfactant in itself, meaning it has more capability to draw away more heat than EG-based products and even Water Wetter. It is biodegradable and non-toxic. It will not kill your dog, nor will it kill the plant life at your favorite track or trail. It is also legal in AMA, CCS and FUSA road racing.

I would put our web site address on here, but I don’t want to look like I am trying to push our stuff too much.
I apologize if this appears to be a spam, it was not meant to be such. Only educational.
 
Hey Dave what about giving all the registered users of this site a discount when we order directly from you?
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By the Way use Engine ice and was about to reccommend it. One of the most noticable factors for me was the reduced temp when i left the bike idling for about 5 or 10 minutes. Typically after a few minutes of just idling the temp gauge would begin to move up near the high range. Since i changed over to engine ice even after idling for 10 minutes or so the gauge was still sitting dead center.

I'ld just about swear by it, but i"ll wait till next summer at the beach before taking an oath ...lolol

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Anyone else think it is strange that BusaBoy (newbie) makes a post about overheating and then "blamo!" EngIceMan (newbie) just happens to join at the same time to answer his question. Sounds like a little creative marketing. Smart guys, as I am interested in his product now.

Anyone Old members here, hear of this stuff? NE.. you?, Captain?
 
Anyone else think it is strange that BusaBoy (newbie) makes a post about overheating and then "blamo!" EngIceMan (newbie) just happens to join at the same time to answer his question. Sounds like a little creative marketing. Smart guys, as I am interested in his product now.

Anyone Old members here, hear of this stuff? NE.. you?, Captain?
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EngIceDave has been around for a while now we just don't see him much.
 
Hey discreet i have a friend who races that advised me about it, and i tried it It definitely works... Give it a shot if you have some overheating problems.
 
Dave,

What is the freezing point of Engine Ice? It is just about that time. I don't want to have to drain my coolant for the winter months.

Thanks,

Steve
 
Engine Ice is an antifreeze that'll go down to -26oF (26 below zero)

You add nothing to it...pour and go

I lurk here a bit...just watch. I don't own a 'Busa and I'm more of a motocross guy, so I don't like sticking my nose into stuff unless I know the answer.

Cooling, that I do know.

I'm waiting on the Captain to call me so we can start doing some advertising here to help him out with the bills...can't be cheap to run this place.

I've seen this forum go through 3 or 4 different facelifts
 
I use Engine ICE in my bike, good stuff. It's simple and easy to use, takes a full bottle and about 1/4th of the second bottle to fill the Hayabusa.
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