cooling issue

I think most missed the fact that the temp was rising "until he turned it off" yes, they go into the red at that point.. as long as the fan is cycling, the thing is not overheated..

Turning off a hot motor means you LEAVE IT OFF for a good period of time so it can cool.. Turning off an already slightly heated motor will make it overheat..

I did not see where it had boiled over or was blowing coolant out (typical of a motor that IS overheated).. Gauge readings are not all that reliable and so you kind of have to rely on the fan cycles to indicate a real problem.. (mine indicates hot when it is not boiling)

point being if you turn off the bike because it is hot, you best leave it off for an hour or more before restarting it..

Great point noted and taken.:thumbsup:
 
One of the changes on the Gen2's is that the bike has dual fans now!
 
this is very important. Alot of people make this mistake. With the fan off and the coolant no longer flowng your temps go waaay high before they actually start to cool down.

Shutting the bike down should be a last resort as that can actually cause a boil over (heat soak from motor cases) keeping the water circulating and the cooling fan running is most important..
 
I also ran hot when in Daytona back in 05. Installed muzzy fan after that trip and no problems since then. Returned to Daytona in 06 and ran cool. I would try the muzzy first.
 
Drain it, give it a good flushing and use Engine Ice. And dont shut off your bike when it does that. Like Randy said, it's better to leave it run.

I use Engine Ice; even in the hottest FL weather, the fan cycles on and off normally. And as previously pointed out, don't shut the engine off...
 
I may not have been in situations as bad as some othere here, but I remember one day last summer I was stuck in traffic on the interstate due to an accident. The temp that day was bout 100 or so and traffic was moving so slowly, it took me 45 min to travel 2 miles. I didn't have any problems with the bike running hot. I felt like I was cooking though. The fan would cycle off and on but temps never got much over half way. I haven't changed anything reguarding cooling from the stock setup.
 
Get a fan temp sensor relocation switch from RCC. The kit relocates your fan switch to the hot side of the radiator and makes your cooling system much more efficient.
 
I use Engine Ice; even in the hottest FL weather, the fan cycles on and off normally. And as previously pointed out, don't shut the engine off...

UNLESS your red light comes on then you have to. BUT like others have said you have to leave it sit for awhile cause its gonna get hotter with no more circulation.
 
I disagree that it's "normal" for it to overheat in stop 'n' go traffic. I've been in the worst and when the temp rises to about halfway, the fan kicks on and holds it there. All stock cooling system.

I do have water wetter in it now but even before then, it never was a problem.

--Wag--

+3 I have never had a cooling problem. No water wetter or fan mod. Been in stop and go traffic many times. Needle stays at half way point.
 
The overflow tank is low, so I will add coolant, dist water, and water wetter.

I had that problem this weekend with mine(Gen 1) in Daytona, coolant lvl was fine, I knew it was going to happen though it did it to me once before in the Key West Poker Run. I have been doing searches for trouble shooting an mods to deal with it.
 
Stop and Go is rough on the Busa, Engine Ice is good stuff and Silkolene makes a similar product that works great as well.
 
I blew a fuse in traffic during Daytona this year and it didn't take long for the coolant temp to skyrocket to bring the red light on. Got off to the side and pulled the panel and swapped the blown fuse. I changed to Suzuki coolant and added 9 ounces of water wetter before Daytona. Gauge never went above halfway after the fuse replacement even during the stop and go of Main Street. :beerchug:Wardie
 
I have a second fan mod that works very well, big-bore, turbo or stock. Almost no modding needed other than piggy back of two wires, changing one fuse, installs in minutes once the plastics are removed on the right side of the Gen I. Works great.. :beerchug:
 
Somebody here talk with Suzuki directly, to know how to solve this problem. I think this is not normal. The cooling system must work good in heavy traffic, like in other motorcycles. Could be a project fail?
 
Somebody here talk with Suzuki directly, to know how to solve this problem. I think this is not normal. The cooling system must work good in heavy traffic, like in other motorcycles. Could be a project fail?
not really a fail... you need to understand as a cooling system ages, it looses some of its capacity to cool... just normal.. in AZ and other hot climates, a new radiator is just part of life... I am amazed these last as long as they do.. 5 to 10 years on the OE rad? outstanding!
 
Hi All,

I come in to this post, because in the last week, I had temperature problems with my 2005 Busa in heavy traffic. It has 21K Kms. As was already time to make a revision, I left the bike in a Suzuki Dealer to make the revision and to solve temp. problem.
Today morning I went to dealer to get my Busa.
A good notice for me and I hope that could be good for you also. The mechanic solve temperature problem with a simple solution. What happened? The problem was in the radiator cap. He change by a new one, original Suzuki. I drive the Busa and tested today morning. All in the motorcycle was ok. The temp. gauge don't pass of the middle in heavy traffic and the fan kick on correctly. :thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup::beerchug::beerchug::beerchug:
So problem is solved. I hope that these radiator cap run ok by a long time from now.

And many thanks for all you, by the help.
[]s
 
Last edited:
I disagree that it's "normal" for it to overheat in stop 'n' go traffic. I've been in the worst and when the temp rises to about halfway, the fan kicks on and holds it there. All stock cooling system.

I do have water wetter in it now but even before then, it never was a problem.

--Wag--

I probably didn't do a good job of saying what I meant. True in normal traffic everything you stated is true, but he was at Daytona Bike Week, Just like Myrtle Beach Bike Week or a wreck on the interstate where you are stopped in traffic for periods of time. The Gen I Busa will overheat, the factory set up will not prevent this from happening, that's why you have all these suggestions to correct the problem and that's why Suzuki changed the cooling system on the Gen II.
 
I probably didn't do a good job of saying what I meant. True in normal traffic everything you stated is true, but he was at Daytona Bike Week, Just like Myrtle Beach Bike Week or a wreck on the interstate where you are stopped in traffic for periods of time. The Gen I Busa will overheat, the factory set up will not prevent this from happening, that's why you have all these suggestions to correct the problem and that's why Suzuki changed the cooling system on the Gen II.

Its strange how these things can be dif from one busa to the next. Mine even with ice in it has a hard time staying cool. YES even before the motor work. But a buddy of mine has a 2000 busa and his runs perfectly cool all the time.

There's always a group of guys that say they NEVER have issues but another group of guys have to use all these aftermarket fixers???
 
Back
Top