connectors at main harness to generator and rectifier

Berlin Germany

Berlin Germany

Registered
dears,
here my strongest recommendation i am able to give .

control , once a year! , with eagle-eyes both connectors (and the insulation of all the wires)
a. 3-point to generator (lh under the tank)
b. multi 6-point at rectifier (lh under the tail cowling)

what i found some weeks ago (again) sholud the following pics show best, better than every (written) word
valid for all gen1 of all years of construction ==> ´99 - ´07
not seen yet at gen2

to a.

reglerprobleme_2-2%20.jpg


to b.

DSC_0005.jpg
 
@rubbersidedown

the main reason i guess is the lost of connectivity inside one pair of connectors (male & female)
what causes a generation of greater heat through a kind of spark formation,
if the plug contact is minimally loose, the contacts wobble due to the vibrations of the bike and a kind of short circuit occurs and the ohmic resistance increases significantly, which then leads to (very strong) heating of the housing and the wire´s insulation too.
in the very worst case, something like this could even lead to a fire.

my prevention consists in checking the plugs at least once a year if possible and pressing the female socket "clamps" together very lightly so that they grip the male plugs very firmly again.
I have no feeling for a temporal context,
but i guess if the plug under the tank shows the first little traces of melt, the big plug on the controller suffers at the same time.
at same time i test the wire´s insulation if it got "hard" or if the flexibility of the wire is as usual.

by this i found wires where the wire´s insulation was burned away at the first 2-3 mm after leaving the connector housing.
 
Kiwi Rider said:
Very good information Frank, I’ve never seen this on a Busa, but have seen it on 4 wheeler Suzuki quads that I service at work many times.
My repair for this issue is to hard wire with solder joints and heat shrink... job done,
Click to expand...
Job done...and permanently. :thumbsup: Only reason for a connector block is to swap out failed components. If that happens,cut the wires and splice in new component.
Rubb.
 
:rolleyes:
rubbersidedown said:
Job done...and permanently. :thumbsup: Only reason for a connector block is to swap out failed components. If that happens,cut the wires and splice in new component.
Rubb.
Click to expand...
Exactly! And often the cause of the overheating of the plug is loose, corroded, dirty connections, resistance caused heat, heat is the byproduct of resistance.
And not to mention overloading the electrical charging system with more load than the output of the stator can supply, lots of aftermarket accessories such as heated grips, winches, sprayer pumps, gps devices, etc etc.
Rubb... we gotta start a bike workshop, you get in ya dinghy and start rowing south west, mostly south lol.
I’ll pick you up when you get here in about 6 months :rolleyes:
 
Last edited:
Kiwi Rider said:
:rolleyes:
Exactly! And often the cause of the overheating of the plug is loose, corroded, dirty connections, resistance caused heat, heat is the byproduct of resistance.
And not to mention overloading the electrical charging system with more load than the output of the stator can supply, lots of aftermarket accessories such as heated grips, winches, sprayer pumps, gps devices, etc etc.
Rubb... we gotta start a bike workshop, you get in ya dinghy and start rowing south west, mostly south lol.
I’ll pick you up when you get here in about 6 months :rolleyes:
Click to expand...
Sounds good Skipper.... I'll use this SONG as cadence to row by.
Rubb.
 
B59D1BFF-EC5D-45E4-8C52-6A232BF7DA98.jpeg
The plug for the rectifier thing on the harness side was cooked. I called the local Suzuki dealership and had no luck finding the pigtail on the harness side (I have a new rectifier). Should I be okay to splice and hardwire, essentially bypassing the 5 pin connector? Or is this going to mess up stuff? Thoughts?
 
BusaBoulder said:
View attachment 1632963 The plug for the rectifier thing on the harness side was cooked. I called the local Suzuki dealership and had no luck finding the pigtail on the harness side (I have a new rectifier). Should I be okay to splice and hardwire, essentially bypassing the 5 pin connector? Or is this going to mess up stuff? Thoughts?
Click to expand...
Just make sure u they are connecting the same as in the plugs and you'll be fine. I've got access to heavy duty bullet and spade connectors at work so I have done some that way and used different colors or swap them so that I can't mix them up if I ever take it back apart but that's not actually necessary. I suggest getting some good heat shrink butt connectors and make sure they are crimped good then put a layer of electrical tape around each connector before taping them all together at the end. Only difference is that it won't be a easy to take off if it ever needs to be and they'll probably have a better connection then they did in the plug. Also you said u have a new rectifier but did you do the tests on the stator to make sure it didn't get damaged from the melted wiring?
 
Dopey said:
Just make sure u they are connecting the same as in the plugs and you'll be fine. I've got access to heavy duty bullet and spade connectors at work so I have done some that way and used different colors or swap them so that I can't mix them up if I ever take it back apart but that's not actually necessary. I suggest getting some good heat shrink butt connectors and make sure they are crimped good then put a layer of electrical tape around each connector before taping them all together at the end. Only difference is that it won't be a easy to take off if it ever needs to be and they'll probably have a better connection then they did in the plug. Also you said u have a new rectifier but did you do the tests on the stator to make sure it didn't get damaged from the melted wiring?
Click to expand...
Thanks, that sounds like a good idea. I’m doing the stator assembly as well just as a preventative measure, also a new battery. I took all the fairings off and am just looking at all the wiring and connectors to see if there is damage. Can’t wait to get her back on the road :)
 
@BusaBoulder

same issue as i had at my ´00
see here at my hp

but that´s not the only point of possible issues
see also here at my hp
pic is from the 3-point (yellow wires only) conn. under the tank
___________________________________________________________________________________

at a ´99, in june 2020, i had that double
under the tank
and
at the rectifier

no other way but to build a new 3-yellow-wire harness, because even the insulation of the yellow wires was hard like a "wooden piece" or under the tank burnt away!

i pers. won´t recommend to wire it hard (solding or so) because when ever <ou wanna change / control the stator or rect. you would have to un-sod the conns.
that wouldn´t be a nice job.
what u can use are these round (we here call em) "japanese" conns. - they work fine.
(i pers. "save" em after squeezing allways additionally with a little drop of soldering zinn - for safety only ;) )
a1.1d.cb.10032033880.jpg



so - for ALL gen1 - control the two connectors
under the tank and in the tail
if one or both got melted (or additionally the wire´s insulation too!)

once a year!

(at the gen2 i do so too - to be save)

and if your rectifier at the gen1 is definitely gone,
don´t buy a new one from suzuki
but try this solution
this limits the voltage at 14.2 V for sure.
 
Last edited:
GIXERHP said:
All your rectifier needs! Upgrade it

Shindengen FH020AA, FH0012AA, SH847, FH014AA Mosfet Rectifiers & Rectifier Wiring Kits

Original Shindengem Rectifiers/Regulators FH020AA, FH012AA, FH015AA, SH847, FH014AA and replacement rectifier wiring kits
www.easternbeaver.com
Click to expand...

yes in deed a nice idea (looking like water proofed)
if there were the male plugs also available - didn´t see em
and
the size (wideness?) of the fem/male conns is, i guess, 6.3 mm
but under the tank for the tripple conn with its 3 yellow wires you need bigger ones - i guess 9.0mm,
caused by the much higher voltage there.

but the main issue is that the females in the plugs/conns widen over the years
and then there is a loose contact
which then leads to massive heating (sparking caused by the normal/usual vibrations inside while driving),
what then melts the connector housings.

so the females at your pic above will definitely have the same issue - after some years !
the´re 100% formed/made like the standards.

the only chance to avoid all "sparking" issues here is to disconnect the plugs
EVERY YEAR
and squeeze the female a lill bit back to give em the former force of contact to the "males".

that´s what i recommend to be done EVERY YEAR at the gen1s (and at the gen2s, for safety first, too)
 
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@BKLYNHAMMER

jep the k8 (1st gen2) was manufactured in 2007 but 1st sold in 2008 as the next generation.

so the calling this spec. busa a 2007 model is absolutely irritating
because all dealers speek about the ´08 gen2
and
if you try to buy spare parts for a ´07 all will tell you that a ´07 gen2 don´t exist
then you show them the chassis number and they will say - "aaaaaaaaahh and oooooooooooooh you wanna parts for a ´08"

believe in me - thats fact
and the reason for my response above.

remember the very 1st busa - everybody´s talking about the ´99
but for sure the very first were built in ´98 to be sellable at jan 1. 1999. ;)
nobody is talking about a ´98 busa ;)

and yes - that the poster of your quoting above seemingly is witing about a "2007 gen2" is and stays abs. irritating and makes no sense.

i pers. would say it is a mistake.
 
You’re dead right @Berlin Germany , Gen 2’s first built in 07 but designated 08 as released and sold in 08.
Note... bodywork on Gen 2 SHOULD have stayed in Gen 1 design.... or, gone straight to Gen 3, bypassing Gen 2 altogether lol.
:popcorn::fire::poke:
 
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