Can you tell me what you used for a regulator or a part number? Thanks5" Bimba style air cylinder with a 2 to 2 1/2" stroke, dual inlets 1inch or 1 1/16th bore for an air cylinder, Humphrey 12 volt solenoid normally closed air valve with 1/8th inch ports. I use a paintball CO2 cylinder and regulator, but have used schedule 40 pvc pipe and caps for an air tank in the old days. You will need a momentary button or hook the solenoid to your horn. Still need airline and sharkbite style push to disconnect fittings too. This is the hardware, you are still going to need some sort of engine kill if you don't have something like a power commander that has that function.......Good luck. It can be done cheaper than the ready made up kits but they get what they charge by knowing what to include in the kits.
150 PSI !!!! 135!!!!!! I run 100 PSI Never misses a shift.The 1-2 shift is the longest of course. I don't notice any problem getting it to shift but I don't know how long I'm holding the button. What pressure do you have after your regulator? I run about 150 PSI, but at times as low as 135. How close to the shift cylinder is your solenoid? The closer the better.
I would question the accuracy of your gauge if you are running 100 psi. On a hot day pressures can actually go over 150 psi. I put over 4000 passes on the stock transmission that was working fine before swapping out for one cut by Robinson. I am still running the original shift forks, shift shafts and shift drum so I'm not too concerned about my pressure being high.150 PSI !!!! 135!!!!!! I run 100 PSI Never misses a shift.
unless my clevis bolt comes out. Which has happened twice, till I now have it safety wired
Too high a pressure and things can bend/break Things
More pressures does not always equal faster shifts
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