Co2 shifter?

I've used nitrous and C02..Both worked ok but I like low pressure with a compressor and switch the best.I went through a few regulators and valves.Never had and issue with the low pressure systems.I could never keep constant pressures with C02 in the heat.Just my opinion.

I had issues getting C02 bottles filled, so I switched to a compressor for awhile. I didn't like the tank I had to add, (also used swingarm for awhile) and I had compressors fail. C02 is the easiest for me. I've changed a solenoid or two but that is low pressure so can't really blame the C02. The C02 is more consistent than Nitrous in the heat, but either way they worked for me.
 
true the electric never needs charging and doesn't have bottle 2 mount also shifts up+down
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the problem with the electric is its not consistent. I'm sure its decent on the street but not at the track. too much fluctuation with voltage and their terribly unreliable. but then again so is any kit I've owned. and not to mention their freakn HUGE and kind of an eye sore imo. and their a real PITA to use with after market rears.

if I was gonna go electric I wud go this route Translogic Systems - World leader of electronic transmission shifting technology but u still have the dreaded F1 light issue I'm sure. but maybe not with this kit.

ppl make a big deal about the bottle. it take 3 minutes to take off and I fill it up twice a season so not having to fill the bottle up really isn't a reason to go electric. but like I said the electric versions have their own host of problems and wen they do have problems their expensive problems and take a while for parts to get to you cause u have to send the part back to Pingle and they will have to repair it.

went thru this with a buddy a couple years ago and he said he wud never deal with that company again and his stopped working twice in one season!
 
I have won several track championships with mine deadly consistent been running it 7 or 8 years
1 time kill went out other than that has never missed a shift.
1 thing u can do if go air use longer airline on fill then can mount wherever u want
 
I have won several track championships with mine deadly consistent been running it 7 or 8 years
1 time kill went out other than that has never missed a shift.
1 thing u can do if go air use longer airline on fill then can mount wherever u want
ud be one of the lucky ones then.... do a search. ill see how many ppl mother fuk that thing. the bottle last pretty much the whole season if ur not doing a lot of street riding. but if ur tryn to use it to control ur waste gate as well its totally useless. no one wants two systems on their bike to run both the WG and the ram.
 
I won over 60% of bracket races I went 2 last year.
that's a winning bracket race bike several track championships
expect take few grand on it this season anybody here run Harrisburg IL we can put $100 any comp race.
Im not a poser or chat board racer,How many races did u win last season? I do have trophy's 2 prove it.
The bar keeps it consistent as does launch box+cross over delay box.

The next race I go 2 hope least 10 bikes+they do allow buy backs 1st or 2nd round.
I would b willing bet $100 I win the race not just a round.
The bikes set up 4 bracket racing+it does real well @ it don't even have slider+line lock on it.
 
bracket racing? not my thing sorry bro.... wen a race can be won with a 13 second bike it just aint racing but hey two each his own.... and u don't need a bar to be a consistent bracket racer. training wheels are for kids lol.

I won over 60% of bracket races I went 2 last year.
that's a winning bracket race bike several track championships
expect take few grand on it this season anybody here run Harrisburg IL we can put $100 any comp race.
Im not a poser or chat board racer,How many races did u win last season? I do have trophy's 2 prove it.
The bar keeps it consistent as does launch box+cross over delay box.

The next race I go 2 hope least 10 bikes+they do allow buy backs 1st or 2nd round.
I would b willing bet $100 I win the race not just a round.
The bikes set up 4 bracket racing+it does real well @ it don't even have slider+line lock on it.
 
I have seen a few of the electric shifters work on slower bikes with no issues but all the fast guys (low 7's) I have been around use nitrogen in low pressure setups.They charge 1 tank for both boost control and shifting.Most of the pro mods use the same setup also.
Hope this helps you out.
 
bracket racing? not my thing sorry bro.... wen a race can be won with a 13 second bike it just aint racing but hey two each his own.... and u don't need a bar to be a consistent bracket racer. training wheels are for kids lol.
So whoever has faster bike is better racer? Good thing I have internet so I can learn these things

No problem bratt I 4 got your a pro.Pro chat board racer:rofl: One the guys dials 4.80 I wonder how many bracket races here would wax your pile?
 
dude, bracket racing is GAY! wen a Toyota Prius can line up against a 7 second bike and win the race it aint RACING..... sorry. yea, thats wat racing is the FASTER bike.... u have like a 10 second bike with training wheels on it. lol ur such a tool....:whistle:

So whoever has faster bike is better racer? Good thing I have internet so I can learn these things

No problem bratt I 4 got your a pro.Pro chat board racer:rofl: One the guys dials 4.80 I wonder how many bracket races here would wax your pile?
 
Do you have to keep your ABC modes? If not, and you don't need your horn, you only need 8' of wire and a couple spade connectors to go from the horn to the ECU and to the solenoid. If you have to have your horn then you only need a DPDT switch like this one to wire up the horn and the shifter. In my mind that is just added complication so I don't have it.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IIDY49E/?tag=hayabusamazon-20

If you must keep your ABC modes then you need a GPS shifter harness. Matt used to sell them but now I think MPS might have them. Not sure what the harness is that they sell, you would have to call them to be sure.

As for the regulator, the Dynotune kit has one. I'd use that one to start with if it were me. Probably not as nice as the Carolina unit but I bet it works fine. I have a Carolina in my toolbox for the day the one I got from Matt in 2008 goes bad.
 
The Dynotune kit looks complete for a Busa install except for this:

1. I don't like the big high pressure gage. I'd have and prefer one of the small ones from a paintball place. I think I paid $5 for one a few years ago.
2. I have a low pressure gage for setting the shift pressure, and I mounted it where I can see it to make sure I'm ready to go without having to look under my tail to see the high pressure gage. Again, this is a small diameter gage. See if Dan has this gage and ask him to include the tee fitting and extra hose.
3. You might need a few miscellaneous fittings that you can buy locally once you start putting it together and see what you want. For example, I bought a 1/8" NPT elbow to mount my solenoid on the shift cylinder for easy access at the track in case I need to replace it, and also for quick response when it is time to shift. It looks like the Dynotune kit already remote mounts the regulator away from the bottle so you have the right fittings there.
4. You will need to make the cylinder mount for the top of the cylinder to frame connection.
5. You will need some extra wire, splices (I prefer solder connections) and some zip ties.

I can send you my wiring diagram for using the mode select switch input method if that's the way you want to go.
 
Looking at the Dynotune kit, it looks like he is using a paintball C02 connection, so you could get a 9 oz bottle from your sporting goods store or Amazon.
 
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