clutch switch problem....

m3456y

Registered
I'm hoping I can get a solution to an issue I'm having with my Gen2 powered Smart Car. I've got a low pressure hydraulic switch plumbed in-line with the clutch and when I put the clutch in and brake - I get a C40 code. I understand that to be an ICS valve code, but I've also found references to the clutch switch. I know the hydraulic switch is working and I only get the code under the circumstances I mentioned. Is there any work around for this? Should I go to a clutch switch from the Hayabusa motorcycle? I've tried both high and low pressure hydraulic switches and they both react the same way. Thanks in advance.
 
Crank it up, remove two wires to clutch switch and run it like normal if it doesn't do it after a few tries it's the clutch switch. the vibration could be making the switch act up and code happen. I had this happen on dyno yesterday and did test and no c40 code.The stock switch the contacts stick sometimes.. here is another test i ran it to redline and rolled off the throttleand let engine do the braking instead of pulling clutch in no code...
 
I get no code if I let engine do the br braking. I'm not using stock clutch switch, but a low pressure hydraulic switch in-line.
 
I have low pressure switch in-line in the clutch circuit. I know the swith is working - it opereates with 20-50 lbs of pressure.
 
Sort of a old thread but I wanted to put my findings here. I've recently installed a brembo clutch mc with a hydraulic brake light switch. After doing so I quickly received the same FI c40 code. After some diagnosing and design research I determined that the hydraulic switch is too sensitive by itself. Basically the clutch signal gets sent to the ecu before the clutch is actually in, resulting in a ICS valve false positive. One fix is to find a hydraulic switch with a proper operating psi, a difficult thing to find... Anther option is to add one of these things, DC 12V Normally Opened Type Trigger Delay Relay Delay Circuit Module FC 31 | eBay
 
I am using Polaris rzr brake switch in my buggy and it's fine

It's in the brake drawing with number (12) Switch, Pressure part#4012866


It's 14usd
 
I ended up finding a aftermarket mechanical switch for a brembo rcs clutch mc. It's a bit pricey for what it is but should clean up the install nicely for those that don't want to wire in a delay relay. KOKEN (KOKEN DENKA) : Brembo radial master for cylinder mechanical Switch kit [KOK-2002] It took alot of digging to find this thing...I just hope it works as needed for a hayabusa.
I was wondering if this switch worked for you or not. I have bought both brake and clutch masters for my busa. Having problems finding a switch for the clutch side.
 
I was wondering if this switch worked for you or not. I have bought both brake and clutch masters for my busa. Having problems finding a switch for the clutch side.
This is in regards to Gen 2 , do not know if okay on Gen 1 .
I bought a Japanes switch , think it is Koken ( still got it in cupboard ) for RCS . Fitted it all up , went to try it out and after 5 - 10 min. got a code up on dash . Cut a long story short that switch did the opposite of what I needed the switch to do . Solution was to keep the original clutch switch untouched and connected as factory to loom , but moved out of the way neatly , but where you can press the trigger easily . So , you press switches trigger and hit the starter at the same time and that is it , no need to touch the trigger until you want to ever start the bike . Now Fallenarch has fitted a switch to his RCS setup , and his works fine , I don.t know what type of switch he runs . We did answer this fairly recently , but I cannot locate the thread .
Here is pic of my simple remedy .

DSCF1400.JPG
 
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