Clutch switch adjustment method

AsleepAtTheTree

AsleepAtTheTree

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Gonna be running a msd clutch master here soon

Heard a few things about the busa clutch switch engaging before you reach any clutch engagement which in turn wont let the msd operate correctly causing full rev and clutch slippage...

Does anyone have a way yo adjust this problem and can either direct me to an appropriate thread or turn this into a detailed information thread on how to make it work...

If im not mistaken, there should be a few here who has done this mod!

Thank you for your time....
 
This works the same as the DJ Ignition Module's Launch switch. Sounds like ground in the busa clutch switch cuts off with just a slight release of the clutch lever? Ground cut means your two step also is cut? I see how that would render the launch rev limiter useless. Also seems like the clutch switch would be pretty useless for its intended purpose...you have the clutch released a little and the bike takes off when you hit the starter.

Never tried it but that sounds very dangerous and I would doubt Suzuki would have an issue like that. Have you tried the Clutch Master yet?
 
I assume you mean launch master?
I ran one successfully for several seasons, never had an issue with it. Just gotta adjust your stack height, clutch lever engagement, and be smooth when you let the lever out. If you let the clutch out without the motor running you can hear the switch click, that's the point in your lever sweep where the motor comes off the 2-step and heads for the limiter. With practice, the bike pulls the motor down enough that it doesn't get there immediately. Start about 3-4k and play around until you're comfortable.
I set mine at 6200 and all but let go of the lever. If you listen at the beginning of this video you can hear the bike go up on the chip and launch.
 
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I did mean launch master lol, did a clutch slave and master cylinder rebuild today and the damn thing is still leaking, pissed me off and it was still on my mind when i wrote this bc i missed a big ride today because of it hence i wrote "clutch" instead of launch lmao
 
So what youre saying is, i should jus put it on and see what it does first, and then jump in the clutch basket instead of messing with the factory clutch switch....

Sounds like a full day of tearing the clutch down, test, tune, repeat untill satisfied...oh dear lol

Part of it tho right lol maybe ill get lucky the first time lol
 
AsleepAtTheTree said:
So what youre saying is, i should jus put it on and see what it does first, and then jump in the clutch basket instead of messing with the factory clutch switch....

Sounds like a full day of tearing the clutch down, test, tune, repeat untill satisfied...oh dear lol

Part of it tho right lol maybe ill get lucky the first time lol
Click to expand...
Start paying attention now to where the lever is when you launch. What number do you have it set to? That determines where the lever starts, and thus how much it moves before disengaging the switch. Do you prefer a long travel or short? Once you get used to the relationship between what point in the lever throw the clutch starts to grab and where the clutch switch disengages, you can adjust how fast you release it the rest of the way.
It's not as difficult as it sounds.
Essentially, if you're smooth and consistent letting go of the lever, you're feeding enough drag in to keep the motor from spinning freely and hitting redline. Does that make sense?
 
Mr Brown said:
Start paying attention now to where the lever is when you launch. What number do you have it set to? That determines where the lever starts, and thus how much it moves before disengaging the switch. Do you prefer a long travel or short? Once you get used to the relationship between what point in the lever throw the clutch starts to grab and where the clutch switch disengages, you can adjust how fast you release it the rest of the way.
It's not as difficult as it sounds.
Essentially, if you're smooth and consistent letting go of the lever, you're feeding enough drag in to keep the motor from spinning freely and hitting redline. Does that make sense?
Click to expand...
Yes that makes plenty sence, i know exactly what you mean

So, now its down to stack height bc i have to let the clutch swing out too much for my liking before it starts to engage and go with the levers set as close as possible setting...

Really hating the fact that i have to buss the cover off again when i jus changed oil and clutch plates recently...wish i knew abt stack height earlier danggit lol uuuughhhhh

Was the reason why i was asking abt the clutch switch adjustment to keep from doing that...but

Now that i did it anyway myself, had to order a new switch bc i buggered it up tryna make it work, clutch swing and stack height is jus waaaay too off

Might as well do it right huh....sigh
 
I like what Mr.Brown says. But maybe you could shorten the clutch lever accusation rod,[at the clutch lever] bit of trial and error but you could decide when the clutch grabs while still maintaining the safety aspect of the switch.Assuming there isn't enough adjustment to be had by picking one of the settings on the lever.
1615878


If that makes sence. Rubb.
 
rubbersidedown said:
I like what Mr.Brown says. But maybe you could shorten the clutch lever accusation rod,[at the clutch lever] bit of trial and error but you could decide when the clutch grabs while still maintaining the safety aspect of the switch.Assuming there isn't enough adjustment to be had by picking one of the settings on the lever.View attachment 1615878

If that makes sence. Rubb.
Click to expand...
Clutch accusation rod is adjusted as close to the bars as it will go. Its all leading to stack height. Ive adjusted as much as i could with everything else but stack height. Even broke the switch trying to adjust it which its not meant to be adjusted so

As much as i tried to avoid it, stack height is the culprit....well...unless i have a bad pressure plate or basket or loose studs or something

Either way i still have to buss her down... Sigh
 
instead of adjusting stack height witch you have to run a tall stack. Even with a brand new clutch my bike would do the same. 2step would come off before the clutch was really engaged. What I did was added material to the clutch lever by the clutch switch. So it would push the switch in longer so the 2 step would be on when the clutch is starting to engage. Then you file down until you reach a happy spot.
 
busakiller said:
instead of adjusting stack height witch you have to run a tall stack. Even with a brand new clutch my bike would do the same. 2step would come off before the clutch was really engaged. What I did was added material to the clutch lever by the clutch switch. So it would push the switch in longer so the 2 step would be on when the clutch is starting to engage. Then you file down until you reach a happy spot.
Click to expand...
Exactly what my next move was bc i already ruined a few switches trying to get it to work how i needed, couldn't get stack height to do right either bc if im not mistaken, you have to have some level of "gap" between steels and fibers to prevent premature wear so i stopped trying to stack like u said it would be "too" high a stack to work...i believe, not sure

Next question would be, what is a good material to add to the lever thats strong enough to hold with longevity but also allows you to "scrape" or remove material for proper adjustment...and hold its adjustment for numerous launches without having to add or replace material constantly...

Thought abt JB weld... Easier to do

Added welded aluminum would hold... Harder to do

What did u use successfully @busakiller
Thanks man
 
Seen a lever kit at MPS racing that has a whole unit ready to go with built in clutch switch adjustment, looks nice and simple...

Only thing is its for a cable clutch.....sighs
 
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