Clutch is slipping...


#1
hi all!

I'm owner of B-king. Our community is not so big as yours... so I need your help...

I have bought bike with 0km. It is 2008. Now odo shows 700km. Today was pretty hot +30C ... I was riding in city with a lot of traffic (about 20-30mins stop and go). And in one moment I open throttle and rpms goes up but speed was increasing not proportional to rpms. Now I'm on break in period so all actions were gentle. At my destination bike was off for 20mins and on the way back there was no such symptoms and it was running as always. I called to work shop and mechanical told me that it is possible that it was overheated. Is it really possible? Does some one had similar problem?

Thanks!
 
#2
Welcome! 5 yrs and only 700k? has the oil been changed? filter, plugs etc? Looks like the bike wasn't used a lot and the gas must have gunked the injectors. Also, check the battery.
 

GIXERHP

ok, ok...just a wee bit Irish...
Donating Member
Registered
#3
So if the bike only has 700km it still has a warranty!
Bring it to the dealer!
 
#5
Thanks for replies! Yes, before 1km I have changed oil. Battery is ok. Gas is new refilled. So it's just slipping clutch problem. As I understand it could be:
1. Clutch disks
2. Clutch springs
3. Clutch hydraulics (cylinder that doesn't allow to engage clutch fully)

The problem persist only in hot weather. Yes, bike wasn't used for 5-6 years. Is it possible that clutch disks need to be changed?
 
#6
So after investigating problem more deeply:

Ok.. I ride with constant speed at 4rpms. Hand is off clutch lever. I try to accelerate ... rpms go high... speed start to increase but not proportional to rpms and in the and rpms/speed ratio is ok. So it's look like problem is 99.9% with clutch fraction disks? Am I right?
 
#7
You mentioned you changed the oil. Was it motorcycle specific? If you used car oil that could be the problem. That said, I had similar symptoms on my busa once. It was fine when it was cold but once it warmed up, the clutch began to slip. The problem was the Clutch Master Cylinder. It was still under warranty, fortunately, so the shop took care of it.
 
#8
Oil is motorcycle specific...

On Monday will try bring it to local dealer. The problem is that bike was bought in Germany.. and I'm from Latvia :) German dealer said that there will be no problem with warranty Europe wide.

Want to ask about warranty... I have powder coated swingarm and installed yoshimura exhaust. I will put back stock exhauist... but what they will say about painted swingarm? Will it be a problem? :)
 

rubbersidedown

BUSA-RIDIN'-BASTID
Donating Member
Registered
#9
Oil is motorcycle specific...

On Monday will try bring it to local dealer. The problem is that bike was bought in Germany.. and I'm from Latvia :) German dealer said that there will be no problem with warranty Europe wide.

Want to ask about warranty... I have powder coated swingarm and installed yoshimura exhaust. I will put back stock exhauist... but what they will say about painted swingarm? Will it be a problem? :)
A dealer probably wont care about a coated arm,if they want to make the cash on this warranty deal. Also,just play dumb,dont mention the arm,let them notice it first. If they do,shug yer shoulders.:whistle:


My guess is the master or slave whent bye bye (gummed up from sitting)...or the driven plates(the steels) have got ugly from sitting.(glazed) If you end up having to fix it yerself I would re/re the clutch for inspection. You can take the steels and lay them on glass or something ultra flat and look for warpage. Also you can stick a piece of sand paperto a flat surface and ruff them up a bit using a figure 8 pattern.

RSD.
 
#10
If under warranty make sure that the dealer will cover since it's almost 5 years. Chances are the pressure plates are sticking due to oil sitting in the crankcase for too long. Let the dealer check if under warranty. Good luck!
 
#11
After Suzuki workshop inspect clutch disks problem disappeared (disks was in perfect condition). Don't know if reassembling clutch or stock levers helped. I forgot to mention that I have installed CNC levers before(made in chine I suppose) and have changed back to stock before bringing it to Suzuki workshop ... but they looked like original and all dimension was pretty same. So will plan some more rides with stock levers and then put pack CNC levers and will see if problem appears again.. Don't like such things when the problem is not found and not solved...

Is there any way to check if clutch is fully engaged? I have some feeling that after some time of riding it "catch up" later ... but maybe I'm just too paranoid :))
 

sixpack577

Top Gun
Registered
#12
Got my B-King last Novemeber with 5600 miles.
Bike looks and runs like new.
Had an oil leak issue and fixed it.
Have had little time to ride, and mostly only commuter miles.
Last Monday with just over 6k miles, the clutch started to slip, randomly, and at 6k rpm and up under slow acceleration.
I went for a cruise the next day to check it out and didn't think I was going to make it home.
Clutch is done.
I have no idea off the bike's previous history(traded my Busa at dealer for it); but I've never seen a hydraulic clutch work just like new, then suddenly go out without warning. Oh well. And I haven't abused it at all, as I really haven't had a chance because most all of the miles I got to ride it were cold weather cruising.
I'de like to think that the dealer put motorcycle specific oil in when they changed it. But I also had over 17k miles on my gen2 Busa with full synthetic non motorcycle oil in it. I ran it Hard and the clutch always worked perfectly.
I haven't taken the bike apart yet as I have no money to replace the clutch at the moment.
I assume I'll find some cooked fibers and burnt/glazed steels.
I'm going to replace both as well as springs too.
Comes with the territory, fix it and ride on.:beerchug:
 

sixpack577

Top Gun
Registered
#13
A dealer probably wont care about a coated arm,if they want to make the cash on this warranty deal. Also,just play dumb,dont mention the arm,let them notice it first. If they do,shug yer shoulders.:whistle:


My guess is the master or slave whent bye bye (gummed up from sitting)...or the driven plates(the steels) have got ugly from sitting.(glazed) If you end up having to fix it yerself I would re/re the clutch for inspection. You can take the steels and lay them on glass or something ultra flat and look for warpage. Also you can stick a piece of sand paperto a flat surface and ruff them up a bit using a figure 8 pattern.

RSD.
If the MC went bad you would have issues engaging/disengaging clutch and getting the bike in gear.
It's the clutch itself when it slips under acceleration.
 

rubbersidedown

BUSA-RIDIN'-BASTID
Donating Member
Registered
#16
Maybe the clutch master is over filled and the heat of the day,the stop and go traffic,and no room for expansion.?

Air in the line heats up,causes expansion.?

Binding chinese lever?

I'd like to figure this one out.

RSD.
 

rubbersidedown

BUSA-RIDIN'-BASTID
Donating Member
Registered
#17
Got my B-King last Novemeber with 5600 miles.
Bike looks and runs like new.
Had an oil leak issue and fixed it.
Have had little time to ride, and mostly only commuter miles.
Last Monday with just over 6k miles, the clutch started to slip, randomly, and at 6k rpm and up under slow acceleration.
I went for a cruise the next day to check it out and didn't think I was going to make it home.
Clutch is done.
I have no idea off the bike's previous history(traded my Busa at dealer for it); but I've never seen a hydraulic clutch work just like new, then suddenly go out without warning. Oh well. And I haven't abused it at all, as I really haven't had a chance because most all of the miles I got to ride it were cold weather cruising.
I'de like to think that the dealer put motorcycle specific oil in when they changed it. But I also had over 17k miles on my gen2 Busa with full synthetic non motorcycle oil in it. I ran it Hard and the clutch always worked perfectly.
I haven't taken the bike apart yet as I have no money to replace the clutch at the moment.
I assume I'll find some cooked fibers and burnt/glazed steels.
I'm going to replace both as well as springs too.
Comes with the territory, fix it and ride on.:beerchug:
In alot of motorcycle applications you can get away with it,as long as the bottom of the circle doesn't have this written in it.

RSD.

motoroil1.jpg
 

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