Clutch fluid flush

[bigoltool]

OK so I had some time off for Christmas and decided to swap out my Antifreeze for new stuff with Water Wetter. I also wanted to address the ever darkening Clutch fluid. I just put new Galfer Lines on the bike last year and fresh fluid. But ever since then my Clutch fluid has been turning rather black. I searched on here and only found a few posts about this. It would seem to be a common occurrence but what exactly is happening? Only thing I can think of is that maybe Chain lube is making its way into the slave cylinder and contaminating the fluid. It is a piece of cake to flush, which I did but I guess I am just wondering why it's happening and is there a fix? Brake calipers function for decades in harsh environments without doing this so why would the slave be so susceptible?

 

[BA BUSA]

It happens in cars and trucks too

nothing to do with the chain lube. There is actually little fluid movement in a disc brake system...just flush it every year and you'll be fine

 

[CAT3]

I always thought the hydraulic clutch fluid turned dark due to the fluid traveling farther and more frequent use, figure the clutch is used on average 5x per brakes 1, or something like that. Anywho...my brake fluid was discolored after one year/15,000miles, where the clutch was NASTY. I flushed and filled with DOT5, purple fluid. I annotated the miles and date of the flush-n-fill so I can keep up on this.

 

[BA BUSA]

There is VERY little fluid movement...clutch or brake systems. Synthetic fluid should help...attracts less moisture. Moisture + dirt = SLUDGE

 

[bigoltool]

(BA BUSA @ Dec. 23 2006,10:29) There is VERY little fluid movement...clutch or brake systems. Synthetic fluid should help...attracts less moisture. Moisture + dirt = SLUDGE

I just Flushed it with Bel Ray DOT 4.

 

[BusaCruise]

there are pre-existing contaminents in the fluid ...plus as the rubber diaphram at the resevoir cap breaks down (you'll see evidence of this in the bottom of the resevoir if you drain the fulid)....the residue setlles at the bottom.
as noted before, the fluid moves very little, so as the heat cooks the oil and particles settle from the moving parts ..... these parts gather at the bottom.

that's my $.02

 

[Rhythm]

(bigoltool @ Dec. 23 2006,10:08) OK so I had some time off for Christmas and decided to swap out my Antifreeze for new stuff with Water Wetter. I also wanted to address the ever darkening Clutch fluid. I just put new Galfer Lines on the bike last year and fresh fluid. But ever since then my Clutch fluid has been turning rather black. I searched on here and only found a few posts about this. It would seem to be a common occurrence but what exactly is happening? Only thing I can think of is that maybe Chain lube is making its way into the slave cylinder and contaminating the fluid. It is a piece of cake to flush, which I did but I guess I am just wondering why it's happening and is there a fix? Brake calipers function for decades in harsh environments without doing this so why would the slave be so susceptible?

Yep, that nasty gunk is wearing down you cluthc slave cylinder seals causing more by pass as the miles increase.

Heres a photo of my clutch pushrod and the gunk thats has been collected on it. This same craps collects on the inside wall of the clutch cylinder walls thats just above the clutch piston head. Over a period of time with pulling and releasing of the clutch lever the piston pushes the rod in, disengaging the clutch along with pushing the gunk mix with collected dirt out of the interior wall of the cylinder, scratcheing (wearing) the cylinder walls, causing more bypass. Over a period of time a leaky slave cylinder.

All cleaned up and ready for the install of my Heavy duty case protector.

Heres a photo of a cover that seats ontop of the topside of the slave cylinder inside opening and covers the pushrod as it passed through.

A member called Suzuki4life for life can make these for you if you want to keep your cluthc fluid clean and extend the life of you slave cylinder.

Disregard the textbox in the photo. Its basically saying that this mod below will not work with a heavy duty case protector without modifications two the slave cylinder pushrod gunk protector.

The heavy duty case protector helps minumizes damage to the waterpump,pushrod and case cover in event of a snap chain while riding.

Bottomline.............

As said by BABusa

BA BUSA
MotoGP Wannabe




Group: Donating Member
Posts: 11192
Joined: May 2003
Santa Clara California
Posted on: Dec. 23 2006,10:17

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
It happens in cars and trucks too nothing to do with the chain lube. There is actually little fluid movement in a disc brake system...just flush it every year and you'll be fine [/Quote]


I would recommend the Heavy Duty case saver, cheap insurance !!

 

[heavybusa]

Love the DIY Rhythm

That is something that I need to do next year.

 

[heavybusa]

So what is the recommended fluid to use

 

[BA BUSA]

Dot 4

 

[heavybusa]

(BA BUSA @ Dec. 23 2006,23:53) Dot 4

Right.

Lets try this again.

 

[heavybusa]

 

[Rhythm]

(BA BUSA @ Dec. 23 2006,20:53) Dot 4

With my new braided speigler lines, I'll be stepping it up to DOT5.But like the man said DOT4 is cool.

 

[heavybusa]

or

 

[heavybusa]

or

 

[heavybusa]

or

 

[heavybusa]

or

 

[Rhythm]

 

[BA BUSA]

Dot 4 and a flush every year and you're GTG

if ya want to spend the extra for Dot 5

still should change it every year

 

[GPW]

(BusaCruise @ Dec. 23 2006,11:26) there are pre-existing contaminents in the fluid ...plus as the rubber diaphram at  the resevoir cap breaks down (you'll see evidence of this in the bottom of the resevoir if you drain the fulid)....the residue setlles at the bottom.
as noted before, the fluid moves very little, so as the heat cooks the oil and particles settle from the moving parts ..... these parts gather at the bottom.

that's my $.02

+1