clunking noise

jrmsr

Registered
'00' w/30,000 miles. Just started having a clunking noise when clutch let out, and/or when accelerating from 20-35 mph clunks one to four more times. Seems to be OK above 40mph, can't really hear then.

First felt like the chain was hitting something, tightened to spec and still same clunk noise, right by drive sprocket, clutch, bottom of engine.

Any ideas, don't know where to start. Clutch, trans
rock.gif
how to fix???

Jim Morrow
 
If its not your chain then its could be the starter having back pressure.
<span style='color:green'>Kerberos</span> suggests that have your vin checked at your local dealership to see if you have the K2 starter and statrer clutch.

this one other thing to check. hope this helps.
 
Maybe it's the rubber cushions in the rear hub shagged?, the noise could be transfered by the chain to the front sprocket.
 
If its not your chain then its could be the starter having back pressure.
<span style='color:green'>Kerberos</span> suggests that  have your vin checked at your local dealership to see if you have the K2 starter and statrer clutch.

this one other thing to check. hope this helps.
thanks for the reply, is the K2 starter an upgrade or factory recall for the '00'




JRM
 
I hate to tell you this but the cluking noies your are getting is the same problem I have had for the past 6 months.
After changing all the clutch parts to a mtc lock up & going to the strip time after time it only got worse.The problem you are having is your gear box ..... the selctor fork is fuc..d & the dogs in your box are warn out.
You will have to replace them with new parts & if you do not want this problem to come back get the gear box under cut.
This week alone in my shop I have 3 turbo busas with this very same problem that I have to fix.
sorry for the bad news.
CheeRs Jamie {HIONBOOST}
www.sandrpro.com
 
I hate to tell you this but the cluking noies your are getting is the same problem I have had for the past 6 months.
After changing all the clutch parts to a mtc lock up  & going to the strip time after time it only got worse.The problem you are having is your gear box ..... the selctor fork is fuc..d & the dogs in your box are warn out.
You will have to replace them with new parts & if you do not want this problem to come back get the gear box under cut.
This week alone in my shop I have 3 turbo busas with this very same problem that I have to fix.
sorry for the bad news.
CheeRs Jamie {HIONBOOST}
www.sandrpro.com
Well thanks to all. I recognize its very hard to explain exactly all problems, by the written word. I did check everything mentioned. Since the noise was on the left side right by the chain drive sprocket, I ruled out clutch and starter. Leaving gear box and drive sprocket chain. It wasn't gear box, nothing was slippling in the gears. Looked at every link in chain and looked good. Took drive sprocket cover off and cleaned area, lubed clutch push rod. Then cleaned chain extra good with kerosene. Lubed excessively and let sit overnight. Noise was gone the next ride and ever since.

I guess the message is clean and lube more often. I had been going 600 miles clean and lube, will try 300 mile lube now too.

Thanks for all the info
 
I have had an issue with a clunk off start for quite awhile now. sounds like someone is tapping swingarm near front sprocket with small hammer when clutch engages in first sometimes in second. this does not always happen. maybe once in 10 times off dead stop. i don't race and am very perticular. i have been working on this for 12 months. unenjoyable riding. i had some advice from a racer who owns his own shop.

first.... the chain should be tight by my standards, on a wheel stand you have to pull hard up a scant 1/2 inch and down a 1/2 inch, check in on the ground, it is the same. no loose chainy poop, like older bikes. no finger up and down an inch.

second, there is a cam with dog ears in the clutchat the drive/counter shaft to prevent smooth and positive clutch release. Suzuki is insane, ask the pros on busas

this cam is between the drive basket and the countershaft, it has three dog earsattached to the shaft. the clutch drive has a collar with notches for the dog ears but the thing is that the collars notches are 10 degrees or so too wide and they are rounded on the bottom so the dog ears that drive the sprocket have to clime the rounded bottom and hit the side of the collar before the sprocket moves. like a bilt in delay on clutch engagement. this makes noise when you let out the clutch just right. add a loose chain and bingo. the clutch mod everyone talks aboutis just welding the the dod ears to the collar, then you need a spacer on the springs/ spring studs to compensate for the the fact the dog eared piece doesn't climb any more and move the springs tighter that little bit.

i still don't know why anyone can't explain this on this forum in simple terms. i have had a year figuring this out. the hayabusa is the only bike with this kind of crap going on in the clutch. some engineer thought they needed a little delay in engaging the clutch. the other deal with this is that for racers, when they drop the clutch, it slips a bit as the dog ears clime to the stop and then set. ( a .01 secind or so) and then the clutch hits hard because the lever has already been released and now the plates slip a bit more because they are being dropped and locked so fast by hard mechanical action of the dog ears hitting the collar ( the clutch cam mechanism). when the dog ears hit ( the cam) it is instant, the clutch has to slip to make up the difference between the motor and the rear wheel.

this is why the busa seems so weird off the line, and why shifting seems so unique when compared to older or other bikes. you never feel like the clutch is really tied to the tranny as you have felt with other bikes. little lag always. when you let the clutch out fast you get a little engagement and then a positive. when you let it out slow you get a liitle hesitaion or a clunk, at times.

i just inspected this assembly, and figured it was causing most of my confusion after having a click clunk noise in my chain on take off.

a brilliant design for the engineers who wanted to intentionally make the clutch slip for a hundreth of a second or so when you dropped the clutch. a nightmare for those who are expecting a clean clutch like they had on any other bike. i am having my cam assy welded by my machine shop for 20 dollars and buying a new gasket for the the cover. then i will put in 2mm thickwashers in the spring studs to compensate for the ammount the dog ears clime on the u shaped corners of the notches when the clutch actually engages. all the racers seem happy paying 200$ for this modification just do the clutch works like any other clutch on a normal motorcycle. as i said i don't race i am just really tired of that screwy clutch.

for any ppl that don't get this can see this site for part fiche for your bike, just be sure to bookmark it..http://www.ronayers.com/fiche/getyear.cfm?groupid=5200&man=su

or this site for a free service manual in pdf format WELL i can't find the site anymore....

i saved it, if you email me i will send you the complete 70$ service manual for free in pdf only 8 mb.. no problem. is easier to use than my paper one
 
I have had an issue with a clunk off start for quite awhile now. sounds like someone is tapping swingarm near front sprocket with small hammer when clutch engages in first sometimes in second. this does not always happen. maybe once in 10 times off dead stop. i don't race and am very perticular. i have been working on this for 12 months. unenjoyable riding. i had some advice from a racer who owns his own shop.

first.... the chain should be tight by my standards, on a wheel stand you have to pull hard up a scant 1/2 inch and down a 1/2 inch, check in on the ground, it is the same. no loose chainy poop, like older bikes. no finger up and down an inch.

second, there is a cam with dog ears in the clutchat the drive/counter shaft to prevent smooth and positive clutch release. Suzuki is insane, ask the pros on busas

this cam is between the drive basket and the countershaft, it has three dog earsattached to the shaft. the clutch drive has a collar with notches for the dog ears but the thing is that the collars notches are 10 degrees or so too wide and they are rounded on the bottom so the dog ears that drive the sprocket have to clime the rounded bottom and hit the side of the collar before the sprocket moves. like a bilt in delay on clutch engagement. this makes noise when you let out the clutch just right. add a loose chain and bingo. the clutch mod everyone talks aboutis just welding the the dod ears to the collar, then you need a spacer on the springs/ spring studs to compensate for the the fact the dog eared piece doesn't climb any more and move the springs tighter that little bit.

i still don't know why anyone can't explain this on this forum in simple terms. i have had a year figuring this out. the hayabusa is the only bike with this kind of crap going on in the clutch. some engineer thought they needed a little delay in engaging the clutch. the other deal with this is that for racers, when they drop the clutch, it slips a bit as the dog ears clime to the stop and then set. ( a .01 secind or so) and then the clutch hits hard because the lever has already been released and now the plates slip a bit more because they are being dropped and locked so fast by hard mechanical action of the dog ears hitting the collar ( the clutch cam mechanism). when the dog ears hit ( the cam) it is instant, the clutch has to slip to make up the difference between the motor and the rear wheel.

this is why the busa seems so weird off the line, and why shifting seems so unique when compared to older or other bikes. you never feel like the clutch is really tied to the tranny as you have felt with other bikes. little lag always. when you let the clutch out fast you get a little engagement and then a positive. when you let it out slow you get a liitle hesitaion or a clunk, at times.

i just inspected this assembly, and figured it was causing most of my confusion after having a click clunk noise in my chain on take off.

a brilliant design for the engineers who wanted to intentionally make the clutch slip for a hundreth of a second or so when you dropped the clutch. a nightmare for those who are expecting a clean clutch like they had on any other bike. i am having my cam assy welded by my machine shop for 20 dollars and buying a new gasket for the the cover. then i will put in 2mm thickwashers in the spring studs to compensate for the ammount the dog ears clime on the u shaped corners of the notches when the clutch actually engages.  all the racers seem happy paying 200$ for this modification just do the clutch works like any other clutch on a normal motorcycle. as i said i don't race i am just really tired of that screwy clutch.

for any ppl that don't get this can see this site for part fiche for your bike, just be sure to bookmark it..http://www.ronayers.com/fiche/getyear.cfm?groupid=5200&man=su

or this site for a free service manual in pdf format WELL i can't find the site anymore....

i saved it, if you email me i will send you the complete 70$ service manual for free in pdf only 8 mb.. no problem. is easier to use than my paper one
thanks for the write up.

I too think the clutch is kind of screwy. I can never get an instantaneous positive lockup. Only if I shift without the clutch (don't use lever or just lightly touch it) can I get an instantaneous lockup in next gear. Otherwise is slips for about 2 seconds, cannot get any accleration till locks up.

I also get clunking when releasing or pulling in the clutch at low speeds, kind of ugly too.

I don't like it, are you saying the racing clutch kits you can buy fix this. Which ones???

TIA
 
I have had an issue with a clunk off start for quite awhile now. sounds like someone is tapping swingarm near front sprocket with small hammer when clutch engages in first sometimes in second. this does not always happen. maybe once in 10 times off dead stop. i don't race and am very perticular. i have been working on this for 12 months. unenjoyable riding. i had some advice from a racer who owns his own shop.

first.... the chain should be tight by my standards, on a wheel stand you have to pull hard up a scant 1/2 inch and down a 1/2 inch, check in on the ground, it is the same. no loose chainy poop, like older bikes. no finger up and down an inch.

second, there is a cam with dog ears in the clutchat the drive/counter shaft to prevent smooth and positive clutch release. Suzuki is insane, ask the pros on busas

this cam is between the drive basket and the countershaft, it has three dog earsattached to the shaft. the clutch drive has a collar with notches for the dog ears but the thing is that the collars notches are 10 degrees or so too wide and they are rounded on the bottom so the dog ears that drive the sprocket have to clime the rounded bottom and hit the side of the collar before the sprocket moves. like a bilt in delay on clutch engagement. this makes noise when you let out the clutch just right. add a loose chain and bingo. the clutch mod everyone talks aboutis just welding the the dod ears to the collar, then you need a spacer on the springs/ spring studs to compensate for the the fact the dog eared piece doesn't climb any more and move the springs tighter that little bit.

i still don't know why anyone can't explain this on this forum in simple terms. i have had a year figuring this out. the hayabusa is the only bike with this kind of crap going on in the clutch. some engineer thought they needed a little delay in engaging the clutch. the other deal with this is that for racers, when they drop the clutch, it slips a bit as the dog ears clime to the stop and then set. ( a .01 secind or so) and then the clutch hits hard because the lever has already been released and now the plates slip a bit more because they are being dropped and locked so fast by hard mechanical action of the dog ears hitting the collar ( the clutch cam mechanism). when the dog ears hit ( the cam) it is instant, the clutch has to slip to make up the difference between the motor and the rear wheel.

this is why the busa seems so weird off the line, and why shifting seems so unique when compared to older or other bikes. you never feel like the clutch is really tied to the tranny as you have felt with other bikes. little lag always. when you let the clutch out fast you get a little engagement and then a positive. when you let it out slow you get a liitle hesitaion or a clunk, at times.

i just inspected this assembly, and figured it was causing most of my confusion after having a click clunk noise in my chain on take off.

a brilliant design for the engineers who wanted to intentionally make the clutch slip for a hundreth of a second or so when you dropped the clutch. a nightmare for those who are expecting a clean clutch like they had on any other bike. i am having my cam assy welded by my machine shop for 20 dollars and buying a new gasket for the the cover. then i will put in 2mm thickwashers in the spring studs to compensate for the ammount the dog ears clime on the u shaped corners of the notches when the clutch actually engages.  all the racers seem happy paying 200$ for this modification just do the clutch works like any other clutch on a normal motorcycle. as i said i don't race i am just really tired of that screwy clutch.

for any ppl that don't get this can see this site for part fiche for your bike, just be sure to bookmark it..http://www.ronayers.com/fiche/getyear.cfm?groupid=5200&man=su

or this site for a free service manual in pdf format WELL i can't find the site anymore....

i saved it, if you email me i will send you the complete 70$ service manual for free in pdf only 8 mb.. no problem. is easier to use than my paper one
krlcols,

What the 'engineers' have provided is to quote Suzuki, a 'back torque limiter'. (or slipper clutch)

This is nothing to do with all you have assumed, but is there to allow the clutch to slip if you are at 10,000 rpm and slam the throttle shut, or are doing say 100mph and release the clutch in 2nd gear at low rpm. This clutch is designed to slip in that direction and stop the back wheel from locking or skipping which is quite a good thing really.

And if it has been used to limit torque from the back wheel into the engine, you hear it clunk on the next application of power as it locks up.

More and more motorcycles are being fitted with them.

Steve - 2003 all black model, UK
 
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