Cluch problems

[Steve kilmer]

I bought the bike and it Like the clutch went out so I replaced it read good for the test ride then I got on it in Road about 5 stop lights with each stop light the clutch slip more and more until about V fifth light I could let the clutch out and it wouldn't move in any gear help please

 

[fallenarch]

I don't know what to tell you but obviously the new clutch was not properly installed. Wen you say the clutch went out what do you mean? The clutch is pretty straight forward and I sort of think it will work or not (aside from some slippage). So is it possible your problem is the lever and MC, not the clutch?

 

[Mr Brown]

Did you soak the fibers before you installed them?

 

[Bumblebee]

/\/\/\/\/\ like was already said.

I note this is your first post......

Welcome and please venture into the new members thread and introduce yourself.

We respond better helping friends and family than strangers just seeking assistance.

 

[TIMMYDUCK]

Year and mileage please .

This could be the dreaded bent shift fork and a gear or two may need undercutting .

 

[jeffgordons24]

I bought the bike and it Like the clutch went out so I replaced it read good for the test ride then I got on it in Road about 5 stop lights with each stop light the clutch slip more and more until about V fifth light I could let the clutch out and it wouldn't move in any gear help please

Welcome welcome,
Try bleeding it, if you have air in the system it can make it feel like the clutch is slipping. I know from experience lol

 

[Boosted Cycle Perf]

Welcome welcome,
Try bleeding it, if you have air in the system it can make it feel like the clutch is slipping. I know from experience lol

This isn’t true. The clutch springs are what apply pressure. Having low fluid, or air in the clutch lines with make it so the clutch won’t disengage enough. This is most obvious when you put the bike in to gear it will jump forward.

 

[Boosted Cycle Perf]

I bought the bike and it Like the clutch went out so I replaced it read good for the test ride then I got on it in Road about 5 stop lights with each stop light the clutch slip more and more until about V fifth light I could let the clutch out and it wouldn't move in any gear help please

Are you running a lock up clutch of any sort, or is it just a stock set up?

Did you buy an OEM clutch pack, or just bought some steels and fibers. If so, your stack height could be too low. I’d also check the spring saddles by making sure they’re tight, along with the the spring bolts.

 

[Kiwi Rider]

Ok, before condemning the clutch pack, let's go back to basics . . .

First . . check the hydraulics, the actuation mechanism, from the lever to the master cylinder, to the hose/pipe, to the slave cylinder.

You must NOT overfill the reservoir with fluid, this could cause the clutch to slip. There MUST be a gap above the fluid level to allow for expansion and fluid level movement.

You must be certain the slave cyl piston is actually moving out under hydraulic pressure (when you squeeze the lever) but not only moving out (to push the push-rod) , but also RETURNING to release pressure on the push rod, and to allow the clutch plates to lock up and to give drive again.
If the m/cyl piston is not fully returning, the clutch will slip.
If it is established beyond a shadow of a doubt that, yes, it is returning and there is no more pressure on the push-rod, good.

To verify and test this, remove the sprocket cover (that houses the slave cyl) and manually push the piston back as far as possible, then give the clutch lever a couple of pumps and watch the piston move out.
Then push the piston back, repeat this a few times to be sure the piston is not sticky and causing the clutch slippage.

Also, check the push-rod is straight and not bent,
and finally be sure the clutch plates are installed in their correct order according to the service manual's instructions.

That is a "start to finish" clutch check procedure . . . Kiwi style!

 

[Steve kilmer]

Ok, before condemning the clutch pack, let's go back to basics . . .

First . . check the hydraulics, the actuation mechanism, from the lever to the master cylinder, to the hose/pipe, to the slave cylinder.

You must NOT overfill the reservoir with fluid, this could cause the clutch to slip. There MUST be a gap above the fluid level to allow for expansion and fluid level movement.

You must be certain the slave cyl piston is actually moving out under hydraulic pressure (when you squeeze the lever) but not only moving out (to push the push-rod) , but also RETURNING to release pressure on the push rod, and to allow the clutch plates to lock up and to give drive again.
If the m/cyl piston is not fully returning, the clutch will slip.
If it is established beyond a shadow of a doubt that, yes, it is returning and there is no more pressure on the push-rod, good.

To verify and test this, remove the sprocket cover (that houses the slave cyl) and manually push the piston back as far as possible, then give the clutch lever a couple of pumps and watch the piston move out.
Then push the piston back, repeat this a few times to be sure the piston is not sticky and causing the clutch slippage.

Also, check the push-rod is straight and not bent,
and finally be sure the clutch plates are installed in their correct order according to the service manual's instructions.

That is a "start to finish" clutch check procedure . . . Kiwi style!

Ok, before condemning the clutch pack, let's go back to basics . . .

First . . check the hydraulics, the actuation mechanism, from the lever to the master cylinder, to the hose/pipe, to the slave cylinder.

You must NOT overfill the reservoir with fluid, this could cause the clutch to slip. There MUST be a gap above the fluid level to allow for expansion and fluid level movement.

You must be certain the slave cyl piston is actually moving out under hydraulic pressure (when you squeeze the lever) but not only moving out (to push the push-rod) , but also RETURNING to release pressure on the push rod, and to allow the clutch plates to lock up and to give drive again.
If the m/cyl piston is not fully returning, the clutch will slip.
If it is established beyond a shadow of a doubt that, yes, it is returning and there is no more pressure on the push-rod, good.

To verify and test this, remove the sprocket cover (that houses the slave cyl) and manually push the piston back as far as possible, then give the clutch lever a couple of pumps and watch the piston move out.
Then push the piston back, repeat this a few times to be sure the piston is not sticky and causing the clutch slippage.

Also, check the push-rod is straight and not bent,
and finally be sure the clutch plates are installed in their correct order according to the service manual's instructions.

That is a "start to finish" clutch check procedure . . . Kiwi style!

Well it runs great at first the hotter it gets the wores it gets. When the bike is cold you can white smoke the tire. After about 20 maybe 30 minutes you can let the clutch out and the bike gose no where. You can turn it off and push it in first gear like it was in neutral. It did that when we bought it so we put a clutch in it and it went a little bit longer but did the same thing. We found out they put oil in the clutch lever we flushed and filled it and it went a little longer but it did it again. We are lost what to do now.

 

[Mr Brown]

Pull the plates and look at them. Are they glazed over?

 

[Steve kilmer]

He doesn't even have 10 miles on the clutch the slave cylinder works fine we can take the bike out the clutch will work really good then when the bike gets hot there's no clutch at all as long as the bike is cold first start up the clutch works perfectly fine until a bite gets hot

 

[Mr Brown]

He doesn't even have 10 miles on the clutch the slave cylinder works fine we can take the bike out the clutch will work really good then when the bike gets hot there's no clutch at all as long as the bike is cold first start up the clutch works perfectly fine until a bite gets hot

Again, have you taken the plates out and looked at them?

 

[Bluebusa60544]

If you bought the bike with this problem, changed the clutch plates, and still have the problem, I’d say it’s not clutch plates. Pull it apart and make sure the wave washers are at the bottom of the stack. Could the clutch line be getting hot and pressuring up? Does the lever feel normal when this us happening? Was the basket notched and worn? Just throwing out ideas.

 

[Boosted Cycle Perf]

Are you running a lock up clutch of any sort, or is it just a stock set up?

Did you buy an OEM clutch pack, or just bought some steels and fibers. If so, your stack height could be too low. I’d also check the spring saddles by making sure they’re tight, along with the the spring bolts.

I’ll repeat myself...

 

[Spudley]

Did you replace the clutch springs ?.....if they're old and tired,the warmer they get, the softer they get. Take the clutch stack out. Start with the inner most little steels ( they look like little skinny rings). Flat one first, second one cone facing outward and towards you. Little fiber next. Then follow standard book diagram to complete stack. Thick steels in middle, and squared outer edge faces outward on all steels. Thickest fibers first, and last. New springs are a must. After a while they'll get become compressed, and not stiff enough to do the job. Don't forget blue loctite on the spring bolts. Make sure threads are degreased with carb cleaner, or solvent before installing bolts. Clean bolt threads also. Then put a little loctite on and torque to spec. Once stack assembly has been validated, move onto hydraulics, validating that the clutch lever is actually decompressing clutch stack, pulling the lever and see if you see the clutch stack is separating. If so, maybe bleed with fresh fluid, and like Kiwi suggests, don't overfill resevoir. Fluid level MUST be below rubber diaphragm in clutch fluid resevoir. A warm problematic condition could be spring tension, or possible hydraulics. Fibers and steels are fine as when cold they function properly.

Remember, last fiber goes on in alternate slot, not the same as the rest. Turn it one notch left, or right. Rest should be in same groove.

It has also been recommended to inspect the grooves on inner clutch hub, the big thing everything slides into. Also inspect the pressure plate face, the outermost piece the six springs hold down. Look for cut marks, and grooving. Burnouts beat the crap out of these two pieces.

 

[KYBUSA502]

Did you replace the clutch springs ?.....if they're old and tired,the warmer they get, the softer they get. Take the clutch stack out. Start with the inner most little steels ( they look like little skinny rings). Flat one first, second one cone facing outward and towards you. Little fiber next. Then follow standard book diagram to complete stack. Thick steels in middle, and squared outer edge faces outward on all steels. Thickest fibers first, and last. New springs are a must. After a while they'll get become compressed, and not stiff enough to do the job. Don't forget blue loctite on the spring bolts. Make sure threads are degreased with carb cleaner, or solvent before installing bolts. Clean bolt threads also. Then put a little loctite on and torque to spec. Once stack assembly has been validated, move onto hydraulics, validating that the clutch lever is actually decompressing clutch stack, pulling the lever and see if you see the clutch stack is separating. If so, maybe bleed with fresh fluid, and like Kiwi suggests, don't overfill resevoir. Fluid level MUST be below rubber diaphragm in clutch fluid resevoir. A warm problematic condition could be spring tension, or possible hydraulics. Fibers and steels are fine as when cold they function properly.

Remember, last fiber goes on in alternate slot, not the same as the rest. Turn it one notch left, or right. Rest should be in same groove.

It has also been recommended to inspect the grooves on inner clutch hub, the big thing everything slides into. Also inspect the pressure plate face, the outermost piece the six springs hold down. Look for cut marks, and grooving. Burnouts beat the crap out of these two pieces.

So the flat ring goes in first, then the cone ring but the round part faces you not the bike, then the first fiber? what would happen if the first fiber goes in first before the rings, would that cause it to slip in every gear? I'm asking because I think I did it wrong.