Clothes Dryer Won't start

(xzvs @ Dec. 25 2006,15:31) Fess up Ben -- did you barf in the lint trap?  
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Not that I remember... But that Wid Turkey does strange things...
 
IF ITS ELECTRIC IT WILL BE 220 NO GFI/CHECK LINT TRAP SINCE THATS WHEN IT HAPPENED MAKE SURE ITS IN ALL THE WAY SOME MACHINES WONT RUN WITHOUT TRAP IN
 
If you have a volt ohm meter, then unplug the dryer, then take the back off. There should be two safety devices between the electrons and the heating element. If any of the safeties are open or if the element is open ( very common in older appliances ) then they'll have to be replaced. Cost $15.00 to $20.00 down here. If one of the safeties is open you'll need to replace it and inspect the airway to make sure it is completely clear of lint. The element might be open as well. Get the paperwork that came with the unit and find the parts diagrams and 800 number. Typically you can have the part in one or two days. Wished I lived closer brother. If you don't know what you're doing seek help. Electric Dryers aren't to be played with. Typically 247 VAC on a 30 amp breaker. Enough to kill the big guy thousands of times over. Don't ruin my FU$%^&*% New Year. Besides I want you looking at my SC Vehicle Lic. at the Gap.
 
(dadofthree @ Dec. 25 2006,16:29) If you have a volt ohm meter, then take the back off. There should be two safety devices between the electrons and the heating element. If any of the safeties are open or if the element is open ( very common in older appliances ) then they'll have to be replaced. Cost $15.00 to $20.00 down here. If one of the safeties is open you'll need to replace it and inspect the airway to make sure it is completely clear of lint. Get the paperwork that came with the unit and find parts diagrams and 800 number. Typically you can have the part in one or two days. Wished I lived closer brother. If you don't know what you're doing seek help. Electric Dryers aren't to be played with. Typically 247 VAC on a 30 amp breaker. Enough to kill the big guy thousands of times over. Don't ruin my FU$%^&*% New Year. Besides I want you looking at my SC Vehicle Lic. at the Gap.
But electricity is FUN when coarsing thru the body... I learned that last year when replacing an electrical socket (I thought I had the right breaker turned off... Found out I didn't when I was looking at the sky.) Been a while since my course in fundamentals of electricity, but I can check those if I can find a volt ohm meter...
 
pull the top or front off (which ever comes off) and unlplug the safety switch.
 
My pop works on 'em and I've done a little. First thing that comes to mind is the temperature protection thingy that blows kinda like a fuse if it gets too hot. If the lint trap was bad enough to overheat it you may have blown that. Just a thought.
 
Check to see if the kill switch is on or the kickstand is down with it in gear . Woops wrong post!
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Years ago I had to replace the timer on one that just up and quit.

If the belt broke there is a safety switch that the tensioner activates that will keep the dryer from turning on. Last time mine wouldn't work I had to replace the motor. I found out from my brother in law who is a repair contractor for Sears that there is a certain model motor that is notorious for burning out. I don't remember the motor model # but it is used in many different models built in the 90's.

I found a new motor from a saleshouse on Ebay. The price was less than 1/2 what the local parts house wanted and less than my brother in law could get one for me.

I would seriously suggest you have someone that knows something about electricity check it out rather than take a chance on frying yourself with 220.
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