Clicking noise at take off....

mrnyc01

Registered
Hey guys.. havent posted in a while. Here is what's going on.

Was riding home one night and half way home I hear this knock/ticking sound at idle. Goes away when riding at normal speed. I did a search here and someone said to turn up the idle.. may have been too low. I thought it might be true because I was riding home from a Bike show that my bike was in. Thought someone may have played with my choke or turned my idle knob.

Well I have it idle at about 1300 rpms. The noise has quieted from where it was.. but it's still noticeable. When I start you can hear a slight knock. Very slight. As it warms up it basically goes away. So I took it around the block today and noticed when I stop and then take off there is a slight tick until I fully let out the clutch and am rolling. Shifting up to next gear... no tick. Only from the stop and taking off.

Now..I am going to get FRIED for this part, but please bear with me. For the last year I have been running not full syn oil. Basically regular 10/40. My mechanic friend says you can do it BUT you have to change more often. Like a couple of times during the season.

So..thoughts guys. Oil? Something else? I also need to know is it safe to ride. I have a ride coming up next weekend.

Thanks
 

Ezduzit

Registered
When was the last oil change? How many miles on the bike? Mines a lil noisy on start up until the oil circulates then she purrs...
 

cheferman65

Registered
It's probably the typical Suzuki pre-warm valve tick that most people experience that goes away when the bike reaches operating temp. Could be bolts in the clutch housing rattling. Start there. 2001, how many miles? Ever have the valves checked?
10W40 oil is fine as long as long as it's motorcycle specific. Using conventional oil is where you will tempt fate. It contains detergents and other additives that do not do well in MC engines.

Good luck
 

mrnyc01

Registered
It's probably the typical Suzuki pre-warm valve tick that most people experience that goes away when the bike reaches operating temp. Could be bolts in the clutch housing rattling. Start there. 2001, how many miles? Ever have the valves checked?
10W40 oil is fine as long as long as it's motorcycle specific. Using conventional oil is where you will tempt fate. It contains detergents and other additives that do not do well in MC engines.

Good luck

The oil was changed at the end of last season. I probably only have no more than 500 miles on this oil. Never had a valve job done or not needed until now. Also I have had it for about 5 years. Tick did not develop until now.

If I drain it and run full syn in it will it make it better? And like I said.. the tick is noticeable when first rolling out. But not after that.
 

Telboy2000

Registered
Oil pressure is low at idle so the cam chain tensioner isn't holding things as tight as it can....when warmer the oil flows better to where its needed
Knock could be the cush rubbers in the back wheel hub which often sounds like a gearbox or clutch knock as the jolt is sent through the chain.
 

dadofthree

Seasoned Beef
Donating Member
Registered
yep :laugh:

I run the piss out of my Busi, Zuki 10W40, I change it every 4K miles. Never had an issue 77K total miles 36K on an '06 and 41K on my '08
 

kart

Registered
Oil pressure is low at idle so the cam chain tensioner isn't holding things as tight as it can....when warmer the oil flows better to where its needed
Knock could be the cush rubbers in the back wheel hub which often sounds like a gearbox or clutch knock as the jolt is sent through the chain.

I would agree, you can try to use thicker oil and observe if the ticking sound disappeared. If that didn't work it could be the valves it self that produces the noise.
 

mrnyc01

Registered
Hey guys...

Ok this is what my tensioner looks like. I assume this is not adjustable?

Correct? So..like I said..the small ticking is at idle and while just taking off. When I am riding and shifting, no problem at all. So the next question is in your opinions:

IS IT OK TO RIDE?!?!?!? I NEED WIND! LOL

Also... I assume you guys suggest getting the APE tensioner?
 

Bobby914

Registered
Ape tensioner and valve adjustment to start, check your clutch bolts to insure none are broken or loose
 

mrnyc01

Registered
Ok guys... here is the update.

Got a APE Tensioner installed. No change.

New clutch basket...no change.

While I am riding.. no noise what so ever. Up shifting and down shifting is fine. Noise only heard at idle while sitting still and just when I pull off.

Two mechanics said they could not figure it out. Asked me to take it to a 3rd guys that's a race engine builder. Told me to let him hear it.

Any extra thoughts?
 

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