Cleaning the horn contacts

ThatGuyD

Registered
Anything I should be wary of when taking apart the handle where the horn is. My bike was sitting for a while and I'm pretty sure the contacts need to be cleaned.
 
You can loose 9.35 oz by removing the horn. A loud exhaust is more effective than that horn is.
 
Yeah well you can lose 2.2 lbs by taking a crap before the ride and have the horn to honk on crazy drivers.
I'd rather than the other way around. :moon:
(Although on second thought they probably would never pull out in front of YOU again!) :lol:
 
Unfortunately, a working horn is part of passing state inspection in MD. I haven't found a decent breakdown of it yet, but seems relatively simple. Just want to make sure there are no tricks to it.
 
Ok, the trick is this . . .
Bare in mind the horn circuit has a permanent 12v feed wire (Orange) up to the horn and is switched through the ground circuit (Black wire) which goes through the switch (horn button)

1st) test the horn itself by putting a 12v test wire on to one of the terminals on the horn. Also put a Ground wire on to the other terminal on the horn. If the horn sounds, horn is good!
Go to next step.

2nd) Test for battery voltage (12.5V) at the horn power feed wire, if no current there, it will be a blown fuse. Replace fuse and recheck horn operation at the horn button. If working, job done!
If not, go to next step.

3rd) Test for ground at the horn wire terminal at the black wire, with your multi meter set to 20k ohms scale put one meter probe on the battery ground terminal and the other probe on the black horn wire connector.
Push the horn button, it (multi meter display) should show zero resistance and release the horn button, it should show 1 or infinity resistance.

Always try to work thru the circuit BACKWARDS from the horn all the way to the switch.

IF it is the switch that is the problem, disassemble the RHS switch block and be CAREFUL when dismantling it, springs that small love to go for a flight and crash land in places you'll NEVER see or find.
A pair of tweezers is helpful to assist in this task.
Use 800-1200 grit wet and dry with a little WD40 on it to clean up the contacts.
 
Ok, the trick is this . . .
Bare in mind the horn circuit has a permanent 12v feed wire (Orange) up to the horn and is switched through the ground circuit (Black wire) which goes through the switch (horn button)

1st) test the horn itself by putting a 12v test wire on to one of the terminals on the horn. Also put a Ground wire on to the other terminal on the horn. If the horn sounds, horn is good!
Go to next step.

2nd) Test for battery voltage (12.5V) at the horn power feed wire, if no current there, it will be a blown fuse. Replace fuse and recheck horn operation at the horn button. If working, job done!
If not, go to next step.

3rd) Test for ground at the horn wire terminal at the black wire, with your multi meter set to 20k ohms scale put one meter probe on the battery ground terminal and the other probe on the black horn wire connector.
Push the horn button, it (multi meter display) should show zero resistance and release the horn button, it should show 1 or infinity resistance.

Always try to work thru the circuit BACKWARDS from the horn all the way to the switch.

IF it is the switch that is the problem, disassemble the RHS switch block and be CAREFUL when dismantling it, springs that small love to go for a flight and crash land in places you'll NEVER see or find.
A pair of tweezers is helpful to assist in this task.
Use 800-1200 grit wet and dry with a little WD40 on it to clean up the contacts.
Last paragraph I meant to say LHS Switchblock, NOT RHS
 
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