checking chain tension?

[The Big Red One]

I hate to say it but that is not true.

Ideally, the rear wheel needs to be on the ground (no stands) and you need to be sitting on the bike while checking the chain tension.

If you check it while it's on a rear stand, the tension will be too tight because when you set the bike back down, the weight of the bike will stretch on that chain just a touch. It's enough to matter, anyway.

Then, when you sit on it, it stretches it a touch more. Then, every time you hit a bump while riding, it "hits" even more tension on the chain.

Adjusting the chain tension while the bike is in the air is a key reason why chains get beat up before their time.

Again, rear wheel on the ground, you in the seat with your weight on the bike and verify the tension that way.

The only down side to this is that you do have to keep a closer eye on it but you were already doing that anyway, weren't you?

--Wag--

The trouble with that is that suzuki gives their recommendation of .8 to 1.2 inches with the factors they state, nobody on the bike and its on the sidestand. That gives the perfect LOADED tension (rider/passenger) according to suzuki. If you tension the chain with the bike already loaded, the .8 to 1.2 inch range won't apply. If you set it the side stand way first, then measure it with you on it, you'll know what the proper LOADED tension is according to suzuki, and use that for future reference.
Or you can just ignore suzuki's recommendations and do your own thing

 

[BA BUSA]

Side stand or on a rear stand...does not matter. But you do need to sit on it to verify that you have enough slack. Book says .8-1.2 inches...I like to do my final check with the bike on the ground and in gear...then I roll it back to put some tension on the top of the chain, then reach down to lower part of the chain to check the slack. You can't get a measurement while you are sitting on the bike, but once you develop the best method that works for you...stick with it

 

[Big D]

The trouble with that is that suzuki gives their recommendation of .8 to 1.2 inches with the factors they state, nobody on the bike and its on the sidestand. That gives the perfect LOADED tension (rider/passenger) according to suzuki. If you tension the chain with the bike already loaded, the .8 to 1.2 inch range won't apply. If you set it the side stand way first, then measure it with you on it, you'll know what the proper LOADED tension is according to suzuki, and use that for future reference.
Or you can just ignore suzuki's recommendations and do your own thing

Good point and well said. This is why I have checked that the tension with the bike on both stands is the same as it is on the side stand (unloaded, measuring the same place on the chain). I figured if Suzuki wanted someone on the bike when the measurement was taken, they would have mentioned it in the manual.

Another discrepancy (if you will) is how much "force" do you use with your fingers when checking the tension. The harder you push (obviously), the more chain slack you will measure. I shoot for a firm push, but at the same time am not straining the get the max chain flex.

Just my :2cents:

D

 

[UncleSteve]

your reading way too much into it. The slack is to be measured without the rider, other wise they would say mount up and adjust it with the rider on board. For heaven's sake lube the thing often.

 

[FloydV]

It makes absolutely no difference whether it's on the side stand or on the rear stand.

Easy way to set the chain tension without a measuring devise is to push up on the chain with your index finger about half way between the front and rear sprocket. If you can touch the chain to the swingarm without much effort, the chain is just right. If the chain won't touch the swingarm, it's to tight. If it slaps the swingarm without any effort, it needs adjusting!

I disagree. Because the shocks are compressed when the bike is on the side stand, the slack in the chain will change from when it is on a stand. I agree with your measurements, though.

 

[RedFalco]

How do you guys sit on the bike AND check the chain tension at the same time? I'm not a contortionist. mirrors maybe????

Gotta say, theres no way in Gods green earth I can reach the bottom of the chain to check tension whilst sitting on the bike. The top of the chain I can; and that little bit "more taught" when sitting on the bike made a pretty good difference, so much so, I put it back up on the rear stand to re-adjust. (Shock isn't any more compressed when on both stands than it is on the ground..either way the weight of the bike is distributed evenly on the shock...UNTIL you sit on it) Suddenly the going over speed bumps or just bumps in general, theory, made real sense on how that could take a toll on a chain real quick. <<And coming up hill on my 850' gravel driveway is nothing but bumps at times.
Good stuff, thanks again.

 

[rusheriv]

From what I've read here over the past several months, I've learned to discount the information posted by a un-name few. Some of the shiz I see posted here, I'm talking about simple stuff like this, it just makes me wonder WHY? ??? Why would anyone ask someone on the internet how to do basic maintenance stuff that is covered in a shop or owner's manual?

I'm just saying ... if you can read and you have access to the manual (which you do, there posted right here), why would you ask some yahoo on the internet?

 

[F=MA]

Is it okay to wish for shaft drive?

 

[Acehole]

Is it okay to wish for shaft drive?

NEVER!



But maybe a Belt! hehehe

 

[Mr Bogus]

Hmmm observation I made...

If you check it the way Tufbusa suggests, it is technically a bit on the loose side.. if you sit on the bike, the chain does tension up a little.. The chain should not hit the bottom of the arm if you are seated.

I think the method should work without you getting the chain too tight (a lot worse than being a bit too loose) Tight chains do not last long.. I have always checked my chains on the side stand btw...

 

[Big D]

Hmmm observation I made...

If you check it the way Tufbusa suggests, it is technically a bit on the loose side.. if you sit on the bike, the chain does tension up a little.. The chain should not hit the bottom of the arm if you are seated.

I think the method should work without you getting the chain too tight (a lot worse than being a bit too loose) Tight chains do not last long.. I have always checked my chains on the side stand btw...

I could see that. I believe Suzuki gave the "work instruction" in the manual for checking chain tension for a reason. Think about it. Some peeps in the field would have front/rear stands, others would not. Suzuki probably found the optimal/loaded chain tension, and then measured the chain tension unloaded and on the side stand. Think about it, it's much more "universal" (and simple) to post a work instruction on how to check chain tension on the side stand, then trying to explain around all of the other variables with front/rear stands, loaded/unloaded, rider weight, barometric pressure, full moon, ambient temperature, tire inflation, suspension spring rate, etc....

D

 

[MET]

BEST way in my opinion.

I've always checked the chain tension with me on the bike and the bike up straight. I'll roll it forward a few times as well just in case there's a sweet spot.

 

[Mr Bogus]

From what I've read here over the past several months, I've learned to discount the information posted by a un-name few. Some of the shiz I see posted here, I'm talking about simple stuff like this, it just makes me wonder WHY? ??? Why would anyone ask someone on the internet how to do basic maintenance stuff that is covered in a shop or owner's manual?

I'm just saying ... if you can read and you have access to the manual (which you do, there posted right here), why would you ask some yahoo on the internet?

a quick sidebar here...

there is usually more than 1 correct way to do a job...

what varies is the complexity and accuracy of each.. in 30+ years as a professional wrench twirler.. I have found I learn things from some pretty unlikely sources. Guys without the tools of a shop can come up with some pretty slick time savers even a pro can use..

What some guys find best for their situation may not work for others..

A professional technician usually has more resources and has more knowledge of what he is doing.. As for the home DIY guy? you need to use the K.I.S.S. principal

Honestly I have met no "yahoos" here, just an occasionally misinformed guy with a wrench in his hand

so careful who you discount.. they may have something up their sleeve you never considered

 

[Tufbusa]

All I can say is if you set your chain tension with a rider on board, your chain will likely be to loose and you'll get chain slap as well as a jerky throttle, especially at slow speeds.

Suzuki has a reason in mind when their instructions say check the chain tension with the bike on the stand. It's not whether the bike is on the side stand or on a rear stand, it's the angle of the swingarm that makes the difference on chain tension. The farther you compress the rear shock the tighter the chain becomes. This is why someone breaks a chain on occasions right after adjusting it. A tight chain will bind the rear suspension on compression of the shock and locks the rear suspension leaving the only suspension in the flex in the tire. Perfect senerio for loosing rear traction on a corner!

How do you suppose you set the chain tension on a race bike which has no side stand? Well, us old race hands have a method of doing that. Place a round shaft screwdriver (Usually a phillips) with the shaft about the size of a pencil between the chain and rear sprocket and roll the rear tire (While on the rear stand) backwards until the chain binds. If the screwdriver is between 12:00 and 12:30, tension is just right.

Watch your track day tire guys who change tons of tires throughout the day, and you'll find none of them measuring the chain tension with a measuring tool. Every place I have ever been they use a screwdriver. Works perfect every time!

There are a number of ways to easily measure your chain tension without a tape measure. Whatever works for you is the right way. If it's to tight you'll wear your chain out prematurely or break it when you hit a chuck hole. If it's to loose you'll get chain slap as well as a jerky throttle. If it's way loose and your chain is towards the end of it's life where it can stretch side to side you stand a good chance of the chain jumping off the rear sprocket and creating havock, especially if it wads up around the front sprocket and breaks the case.

Your best bet for a long life with your chain is to keep it clean and waxed or oiled and a little on the loose side is better than tight. Suzuki gives you a wide margin of error with their chain adjustment instructions. Surely, no matter how you do it, you can fall within the recommended margins?

 

[bazmaniac]

i check mine while the bike is raised with front & rear stands, with the side-stand fully extended, my border-collie sittin' on the seat (complete with race-face on!)....and a packed lunch balancing precariously on the hump...works for me !!!

 

[FloydV]

NEVER!



But maybe a Belt! hehehe

A shaft drive makes the ass end rise and fall as you roll on and off the throttle. Not good in twisties. A busa would break any belt I've ever read about. Maybe not break, but definitely jump teeth and screw it up.

 

[Tufbusa]

A shaft drive makes the ass end rise and fall as you roll on and off the throttle. Not good in twisties.

Tire thrust combined with swingarm angle is what dictates squat. With shaft drive you loose the anti-squat characteristics your get with a chain.

Counter-Rotation is what makes shaft drive a poor choice for bikes designed for cornering aka Sport Bikes. The counter rotation from the torque on the shaft drive either wants to stand the bike up or push it to the ground depending on which side you are leaning.

Shaft drive? Great for touring, poor for railing the corners.

 

[Mr Bogus]

All I can say is if you set your chain tension with a rider on board, your chain will likely be to loose and you'll get chain slap as well as a jerky throttle, especially at slow speeds.

Suzuki has a reason in mind when their instructions say check the chain tension with the bike on the stand. It's not whether the bike is on the side stand or on a rear stand, it's the angle of the swingarm that makes the difference on chain tension. The farther you compress the rear shock the tighter the chain becomes. This is why someone breaks a chain on occasions right after adjusting it. A tight chain will bind the rear suspension on compression of the shock and locks the rear suspension leaving the only suspension in the flex in the tire. Perfect senerio for loosing rear traction on a corner!

How do you suppose you set the chain tension on a race bike which has no side stand? Well, us old race hands have a method of doing that. Place a round shaft screwdriver (Usually a phillips) with the shaft about the size of a pencil between the chain and rear sprocket and roll the rear tire (While on the rear stand) backwards until the chain binds. If the screwdriver is between 12:00 and 12:30, tension is just right.

Watch your track day tire guys who change tons of tires throughout the day, and you'll find none of them measuring the chain tension with a measuring tool. Every place I have ever been they use a screwdriver. Works perfect every time!

There are a number of ways to easily measure your chain tension without a tape measure. Whatever works for you is the right way. If it's to tight you'll wear your chain out prematurely or break it when you hit a chuck hole. If it's to loose you'll get chain slap as well as a jerky throttle. If it's way loose and your chain is towards the end of it's life where it can stretch side to side you stand a good chance of the chain jumping off the rear sprocket and creating havock, especially if it wads up around the front sprocket and breaks the case.

Your best bet for a long life with your chain is to keep it clean and waxed or oiled and a little on the loose side is better than tight. Suzuki gives you a wide margin of error with their chain adjustment instructions. Surely, no matter how you do it, you can fall within the recommended margins?

now, what is the best way to check chain alignment? and although it looks square, I gotta bet mine is off a bit, power wheelies if I do not adjust for, always power the bike over on to the right side as coming down.. wheel pointed left of center line of bike?

 

[FloydV]

Tire thrust combined with swingarm angle is what dictates squat. With shaft drive you loose the anti-squat characteristics your get with a chain.

Counter-Rotation is what makes shaft drive a poor choice for bikes designed for cornering aka Sport Bikes. The counter rotation from the torque on the shaft drive either wants to stand the bike up or push it to the ground depending on which side you are leaning.

Shaft drive? Great for touring, poor for railing the corners.

Well, I sort of had it right. Wrong direction. Not up and down but left or right.
Even worse.

 

[Tufbusa]

You can measure the distance from the axle block (Center of block, not top or bottom) to the end of the swingarm and it will be very close. However, the stringline method is the most accurate. With the string line you get your rear tire aligned with the front tire which is what's most important.