Checking Chain for Slack

MEBusa

Registered
I read somewhere on here, where one member stated to another, that to properly check the amount of slack in his drive chain, is to "sit on the bike, while reaching down." The service manual makes no mention of this (sitting on the bike).

I checked my chain slack the other day, and I'm right at the upper limit of 30mm (which needs to be tightened some). The maual says the proper slack should be between 20mm & 30mm. I did this while the bike was on both stands, measuring at the middle of the chain (marking the bottom of the chain on a stick from a resting position, pushing it up until it's completely tight, then marking at that point, then measure).

Who sits on their bike, while checking for chain slack, & why do it that way?

Thanks
 
That would bring the suspension closer to the normal position, but I have to wonder if it's better. I've heard of this before. If you have the manual then follow it. You stated you had the bike on both stands. I haven't read the manual but I bet it's with the bike on the side stand. Anyway I'm off to get my manual :laugh:
 
Yep, place bike on side stand , 20-30 mm midway between sprockets on the bottom.
 
How I adjust my chain is..

I sit on the bike and with minor effort I should be able to pull the bottom part of the chain up against the bottom chain guide on the swingarm.
Its a sense of feeling which I cant explain.. Should be effort but not an extreme amount..
Ive never had a chain break or pop off in the 25+ yrs of riding and drag racing motorcycles.
 
i sit on mine , grab the chain on the top and pull up to around an 3/4 of an inch. then tighten it up. this is how i have done it on every dirtbike and street bike i have ever had, never had an issue.
 
That is called laden chain tension... and is used mainly on motocross bikes. It is used on high suspension travel bikes it sets the swingarm height to the weight of the rider at standard compression of suspension and you should have a certain amount of slack for when the suspension is compressed landing from a jump so it does not bind up the chain. When setting race sag on a motocross bike and adjusting to the weight of the rider different conditions such as track type track conditions etc call for different chain tensions and suspension settings to perform better for that race.
 
With any chain driven motorcycle, I don't bother too much about what was written in the manual. It's about taking slack out of the chain with adjustment, to the extent where the swing arm still has unrestrained movement throughout its entire path of travel.

I have had bikes, where one follows exact procedures in the book and then when the swing arm gets to a certain point, the chain tightens up completely, with damage as a result.
 
With any chain driven motorcycle, I don't bother too much about what was written in the manual. It's about taking slack out of the chain with adjustment, to the extent where the swing arm still has unrestrained movement throughout its entire path of travel.

I have had bikes, where one follows exact procedures in the book and then when the swing arm gets to a certain point, the chain tightens up completely, with damage as a result.

Soooo, how do you adjust the chain on your Busa :rofl:
 
Soooo, how do you adjust the chain on your Busa :rofl:

Can't give you an exact description, as I'm, a few 1000 miles away from home, supposed to be working.

The first time I did this, while the bike had 600 miles on the ODO I had someone help me compress the rear suspension to the spot where the swing arm travel resulted in the tightest, or least chain slack condition. I adjusted for around 3/8" slack at that point, if I can remember. I then lifted the bike on a rear stand, back wheel off the ground and marked a spot on the swing-arm where I could almost touch the chain on the swing arm.

For further adjustments, I just lift the back wheel off the ground with a stand, lube the chain and adjust at the marked spot. Then turn the back wheel to ensure there are no places where the chain tightens.

After these adjustments, the chain was OK to the Suzuki manual, ( they seemed to have done their homework) on the side stand, 20-30mm. I'm not sure if this will hold though with modified bikes, using swing arm extensions, or different sprocket sizes.
 
No matter how difficult or easy you make the chain adjustment, it's best to rule on the loose side than the tight side.

A chain too tight creates a number of issues.
 
Can't give you an exact description, as I'm, a few 1000 miles away from home, supposed to be working.

The first time I did this, while the bike had 600 miles on the ODO I had someone help me compress the rear suspension to the spot where the swing arm travel resulted in the tightest, or least chain slack condition. I adjusted for around 3/8" slack at that point, if I can remember. I then lifted the bike on a rear stand, back wheel off the ground and marked a spot on the swing-arm where I could almost touch the chain on the swing arm.

For further adjustments, I just lift the back wheel off the ground with a stand, lube the chain and adjust at the marked spot. Then turn the back wheel to ensure there are no places where the chain tightens.

After these adjustments, the chain was OK to the Suzuki manual, ( they seemed to have done their homework) on the side stand, 20-30mm. I'm not sure if this will hold though with modified bikes, using swing arm extensions, or different sprocket sizes.

So basically following the manual was the right thing to do. I hadn't mentioned it but you are correct especially as the chain and sprockets get a little mileage on them and depending on how well you have taken care of them; you need to check it in a number of spots just in case you have chain issues. Obviously trail bikes and a Busa differ. Thanks for the reply.
 
I don't know about y'all but this is not rocket science! Follow the book or service manual and you should be okay! Sidestand, wheelstand, seated, standing there is not that much travel on the back end where it really makes a difference at all. Here's a thought, make sure its in neutral, check it with a good shake and adjust it. Funny how some folks make things so much harder than they need to be.
 
I don't know about y'all but this is not rocket science! Follow the book or service manual and you should be okay! Sidestand, wheelstand, seated, standing there is not that much travel on the back end where it really makes a difference at all. Here's a thought, make sure its in neutral, check it with a good shake and adjust it. Funny how some folks make things so much harder than they need to be.


:laugh: OMG another dumped my bike in the garage checking my chain adjustment thread :rofl:
 
I just use the 2 finger method.if it moves 2 fingers up or down its usually good.Worked for me for years.
 
No matter how difficult or easy you make the chain adjustment, it's best to rule on the loose side than the tight side.

A chain too tight creates a number of issues.
Tufs on the money, a little loose is better than a little tight. And I make it on the easy side :laugh:
 
Some of you boys make a real project out of chain adjustment.

It takes me all of about two and a half minutes to adjust my chain and that includes putting the rear stand under it.
 
Some of you boys make a real project out of chain adjustment.

It takes me all of about two and a half minutes to adjust my chain and that includes putting the rear stand under it.

i agree with you on that one it shouldnt take much its not adjusting cams lol
 
i always fret about how i adjust the chain...always think i have it too loose...but it seems to work fine...just light adjust to have almost inch of movement...go by feel i guess..
 
I think you are onto something there Chris. I check my chain with one finger. Place the finger near the middle between the sprockets and push up, if the chain just barely touches the swingarm without excessive force the chain is just right.
 
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