CHEAP solution to 99-2000 fuel pump problems...


Busabim

Registered
#1
Greetings,

I added a second low pressure fuel pump to the 99 Hayabusa. The pump is $30 and some brass fittings another $15. I have the low pressure pump feeding the primary external fuel pump and any extra fuel goes back to the return tank.

There should be no more vapour lock and the fuel pump will always be bathed in fuel (now) and not have to rely on the inefficient gravity feed to work. You can see the top of the low pressure pump feeding directly into the main external fuel assembly: Secondary pumps are common on boats and are designed to run continuously.

Now I have 2 pumps and 2 filters. The pump and filter fit under the tank with no issue and the pump is mounted to the screw that holds the wiring harness clamp. I bought the pump off eboy.

Please see photos to show routing. The fuel filter is elbowed off at 90 degrees and sits upright the same as the pump to allow for easy exchange and for clearance below the tank. The second picture shows most of the fittings.

This is a much more cost effective solution than replacing tanks.

2ndpump.jpg


close%20up%202nd%20pump.jpg


Low%20pressure%20pump.jpg
 

Busabim

Registered
#2
here is another shot of the pump and fittings showing the filter set up. Note the filter is facing up parallel to the low pressure pump and is easily removed. If the filter is left on top of the pump ( as sold) it might be too tall when the tank goes back on top.

So far the bike has not failed to restart once when very hot!

20130430_150923_1_.jpg
 
#3
Hey Busabim, how is the new pump running? where did you get the pump from on eboy? how do the b/r wires get connected?
Btw.. noticed that you're in TO, we should have a busa meet in the summer.
 

Busabim

Registered
#4
For all of those people (1999-2000) who feel they have to swap out to an intank fuel pump for reliability, I believe it is a lot of unnecessary work.

I have been in very hot weather and in traffic and no stalling out any more when hot.

The pump is from Eboy, I will be ordering a spare as back up for the future since they are so cheap. Also, I intend to replace the secondary fuel filter every year so I never have to deal with the external fuel pump filters again ( hopefully). I upgraded the original pump last year to the pump from hamilton motorsports ( on eboy) and cleaned both the pump housing filter and the other fuel filter ( inside fuel housing) was also clean.

The power went to a fuse in the ignition an the other to the initial fuel pump negative power ( I think) but any good ground will do.

Is your bike a 99/2000? You can come and see it in person if you are in town.

BB
 
#5
Just finished a 4000km week on the busa in the south with no issues. So far bike has not failed to restart once and I believe at high rpm there is more power. will need to wait for dyno to confirm.

BB
 
#6
Just finished a 4000km week on the busa in the south with no issues. So far bike has not failed to restart once and I believe at high rpm there is more power. will need to wait for dyno to confirm.

BB
Thanks a lot Busabim,

I was thinking to replace the fuel hoses, but your experience suggest me quiet, Please couldn't You inform me where You buy the new pieces and Your experience on low run with hot weather?
I had the problems when trought town at 35°C and low run about 30Km/h. More time I interrupt my tour for this problem and on return way(speed run) no problem occour SIGH!.

Thanks a lot 4 help
markenaim
 
#7
The hoses are not the issue when the system is primed with low pressure fuel.

low pressure pump available on ebay for $30. Wire up pump so it only goes on with the ignition. Very simple job and the external fuel filter can be upgraded so you never have to go inside fuel pump assembly unless primary pump fails. It should last 2x longer since it is always being primed with fuel!

Here is link to the solution. it has worked on 4000km trip to the south and started every time. This solution is common on boats where primary pump is above and needs help to supply against gravity.

https://www.hayabusa.org/forum/busa-problems/173676-cheap-solution-99-2000-fuel-pump-problems.html
 
#8
nice bit of work but must be a climate temp issue...ran a 00' model for 7 years and never had to touch the pump...did replace the fuel lines twice as they barely lasted 4 years before dozing to the point where the pump could suck them shut under heavy throttle.
 

ike

Registered
#9
Took my 2000 to work Friday. Been about a month since i driven it. On the way to work it ran fine. Plenty of power, no complaints. Then, on the way home, just seconds from my house. I came to a stop and the idle was erratic. Didn't sound like an engine miss. It just sounded like it was going to stall. When under throttle it ran fine and i just wanted to get it home before it died. When i pulled up to my house. I dismounted the bike and let it idle. She sounded like it was going to die. Almost as if it were not getting enough fuel. One more thing. I filled the tank the night before. Hope i didn't get a batch of water... My baby is sick and now i am :( Any thoughts, checks, etc. Have not checked out the bike yet. Figured I'd do some research first then of course start with the basics.
 
#11
Replacing the flimsy fuel hoses every four years is also a very good idea and is recommended in the service manual as well. They should be inspected at least twice a season for kinking or signs of being compressed when tank is in down position.

The hoses cost next to nothing and can add to the problem. When I replaced my ( internal) fuel pump and cleaned the internal filters I replaced all the external hoses as a precautionary measure.

BB
 
#12
For those who kept asking where I wired up the power line ( red) from second fuel pump, please see this picture. Power to second pump is only on when ignition is turned on.

20131009_092647_1_1.jpg


BB
 
#16
Thank you for the compliment but the solution was not mine. I had a to pay for the solution so I am offering it free to the org!

Swapping tanks is expensive, unnecessary and way too much work.

Also, working on external fuel pump is way easier then removing a buried in tank fuel pump when it is time to clean filters! I dont know how any one with a 1999/2000 doesnt have problems in hot temperature and weather with this design.

BB
 
#17
Thank you for the compliment but the solution was not mine. I had a to pay for the solution so I am offering it free to the org!

Swapping tanks is expensive, unnecessary and way too much work.

Also, working on external fuel pump is way easier then removing a buried in tank fuel pump when it is time to clean filters! I dont know how any one with a 1999/2000 doesnt have problems in hot temperature and weather with this design.

BB
Well, nice solution mate :) The average temperature where I live is between 75~100 degrees. Whether it is my good luck or some other reason, have neither faced fuel pump issues nor overheating issues. Unlike Suzuki recommendations, which stipulate 50:50 mix of coolant and distilled water (which is ideal for very cold and freezing temperatures), I mix one part of coolant concentrate to two parts of water and my temperature needle never goes above the mid-line and most often stays a few degrees below the line. It is to be noted that water in the coolant is what dissipates the heat, while the Ethylene Glycol is only an anti-freeze and anti-corrosive, not having cooling properties.
 
#18
If you are looking for highest heat dissipation in radiator... distilled water and water wetter is what is used on the track.....

BB
 
#19
Update-- I am finishing up a 4000km trip to south USA where it was almost 100 degrees during the day.

The bike has continued to start without a problem over 1 year with the second fuel pump MOD.

BB
 

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