Charging system




killertiller

Registered
I’m just about ready to put the stator in my bike but I want to make sure that’s my problem. When battery is fully charged it reads 12.8 And charges 13.8 at 4000 rpm. after running at idle for 10 minutes read 11.0 at idle and 11.0 at 4000 rpms.
 

Kiwi Rider

Registered
Always check the stator output FIRST.
Possible faulty regulator/rectifier, when the fault occurs and the reading is 11v, check the voltage (AC) output from the stator phase wires, should be around 65v to 100v AC on each phase, depending on RPM.
If that output reading is correct, replace the regulator then recheck charging rate at the battery, should be over 13.2v at 2000rpm constantly and not drop away.
 

Kiwi Rider

Registered
Always check the stator output FIRST.
Possible faulty regulator/rectifier, when the fault occurs and the reading is 11v, check the voltage (AC) output from the stator phase wires, should be around 65v to 100v AC on each phase, depending on RPM.
If that output reading is correct, replace the regulator then recheck charging rate at the battery, should be over 13.2v at 2000rpm constantly and not drop away.

be sure to watch this explaination, VERY well laid out!
 

killertiller

Registered
Thanks guys im more of a parts changer then parts tester.. lol. But i think i can figure it out. Does the rectifier have to me mounted to work? Cause i can easily just plug the new one i have in and see if anything changes in few seconds.
 

killertiller

Registered
Im at dead end.. battery tested perfect its a year old.. stator and rec tested perfect.. i tested both 5 times even checked the stator from plug at stator and at rectfier. Only thing that was odd was when guy tested batter he just hooked up tester for 1 second n said its good.. i had a tester years ago and i remember having to hit button to put load on battery.. maybe thats old school ..lol
 

killertiller

Registered
Now battery is 12.8.. when turn key its at 12.00. When i hit starter it goes to 10.8 for a second then fires and shows 12.0
 

killertiller

Registered
For heck of it i plugged other rectifier in and its reading good.. maybe to good. Idle about 12.8 when i rev to 5k its 17.2... is that too much? The stater is pretty warm but you can touch it.
 

killertiller

Registered
Final update..lol Went back out to check the numbers one more time and everything seems completely normal when it’s revving is charging at Between 14.2 and 14.8.. at idle 12.8.. Thanks for the help guys
 

Kiwi Rider

Registered
Final update..lol Went back out to check the numbers one more time and everything seems completely normal when it’s revving is charging at Between 14.2 and 14.8.. at idle 12.8.. Thanks for the help guys
Ya see, it just ain't that hard testing electrical equipment now is it?
The problem is, you've gotta do it a lot to become competent and confident at doing it and UNDERSTANDING what you are actually doing.
So just practice at it and test every system you can, you'll be a bloody expert in no time! :beerchug:
 

Kiwi Rider

Registered
Only thing that was odd was when guy tested batter he just hooked up tester for 1 second n said its good.. i had a tester years ago and i remember having to hit button to put load on battery.. maybe thats old school ..lol
These new fangled electronic load testers do only take a few seconds or less.... I prefer the old school actual load test with a carbon-pile type load test. That's the honest-no bullsh%t test, but it has to be done carefully on bike batteries.
You load up the battery to half of it's CCA capacity for 8 seconds or so, watch the needle drop the voltage.
Or, just crank the engine over and watch the voltage drop. If it drops below 10v after a few seconds of cranking, recharge the battery, let it rest for and hour or so, and retest with cranking.
About 10V is the threshold whilst cranking.
Anyway, sounds like you've sorted it. Good job mate! :beerchug:
 

killertiller

Registered
These new fangled electronic load testers do only take a few seconds or less.... I prefer the old school actual load test with a carbon-pile type load test. That's the honest-no bullsh%t test, but it has to be done carefully on bike batteries.
You load up the battery to half of it's CCA capacity for 8 seconds or so, watch the needle drop the voltage.
Or, just crank the engine over and watch the voltage drop. If it drops below 10v after a few seconds of cranking, recharge the battery, let it rest for and hour or so, and retest with cranking.
About 10V is the threshold whilst cranking.
Anyway, sounds like you've sorted it. Good job mate! :beerchug:
So rode today then tested.. its back to high volts... at 4000 rpms it charging at 18... Talk to a mechanic friend of mine and he said sometimes you have to change them as a set the rectifier and stator?
 



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