Charging issues

[Vincent Baker]

I have 2011 busa. I’m having charging issues. I found the issues to be my wires rectifier. I have changed out my rectifier bc the wires melted together. I decided to solder the wires together to fix the issue. A couple months later, I’m having the same problem again. This time my stator wires melt together. Is this normal for busa? What could cause this issue? Should I troubleshoot another issue?

 

[Jose J Ortega]

The heat that melts the wires depends on the power dissipated at the connector, which is current * resistance. Assuming the R/R regulates properly (check the Manual how to test it), the stator doesn't have any burnt phases and you don't have any short or fancy power-hungry aftermarket components installed, the current should be ok.

Then it would a matter of resistance. Are these the OEM connectors? If so, is the harness-side connector half burnt? Has it been replaced? Generally, in order to get low resistance, you need a large metal contact area, which means: a) properly sized connectors, b) snug/tight contact at the pins, so that not only part of the pins make contact and c) clean, rust-free pins

 

[Vincent Baker]

The heat that melts the wires depends on the power dissipated at the connector, which is current * resistance. Assuming the R/R regulates properly (check the Manual how to test it), the stator doesn't have any burnt phases and you don't have any short or fancy power-hungry aftermarket components installed, the current should be ok.

Then it would a matter of resistance. Are these the OEM connectors? If so, is the harness-side connector half burnt? Has it been replaced? Generally, in order to get low resistance, you need a large metal contact area, which means: a) properly sized connectors, b) snug/tight contact at the pins, so that not only part of the pins make contact and c) clean, rust-free pins

The heat that melts the wires depends on the power dissipated at the connector, which is current * resistance. Assuming the R/R regulates properly (check the Manual how to test it), the stator doesn't have any burnt phases and you don't have any short or fancy power-hungry aftermarket components installed, the current should be ok.

Then it would a matter of resistance. Are these the OEM connectors? If so, is the harness-side connector half burnt? Has it been replaced? Generally, in order to get low resistance, you need a large metal contact area, which means: a) properly sized connectors, b) snug/tight contact at the pins, so that not only part of the pins make contact and c) clean, rust-free pins

 

[Vincent Baker]

Thx for information. It’s OEM connectors. I’m going change out my stator. I’m going solder the wires directly to each other. Do you see any issues doing so?

 

[Jose J Ortega]

If you have verify your stator/ rectifier and they are working correctly I don't see a issue with the wire to wire solution. At this stage seems the only way to go. Unless you like doing this over again down the road sometime.

 

[Vincent Baker]

The stator is bad now after the melt connectors. I want say all this happens when I installed speakers and amp. I disconnected everything. I’m going back to the basic.

 

[Jose J Ortega]

The stator is bad now after the melt connectors. I want say all this happens when I installed speakers and amp. I disconnected everything. I’m going back to the basic.

There you go!! then that was the issue. Good luck my friend