Changing the front brake pads

[FloydV]

I have about half the pad thickness left on my front pads. So, I thought I'd get ahead of the game and change them while I change the fluid.

Looking at the front, I have no idea how the wheel comes off. That is what I would do on a car--pull the wheel and then change out the pads followed by putting the wheel back on. So, how do you hold a bike up while you remove the wheel?

Could someone give me a run down on what bolts need to come loose and how do I keep the bike upright while I'm changing the pads. Normally, I just start pulling things loose, but that doesn't seem like a good idea in this case.

Floyd

 

[skydivr]

If you've still got 50% left I'd leave it alone you have plenty of pad left.

Gen 1 or 2? Highly recommend you read the service manual; it's online but I have copy of GEN2 if you need it; but:

Using a pit bull or redline stand which picks up under the forks you can remove the front wheel without issue. Or use their modified stand that pics up under the steering stem. You MUST be on rear stand FIRST in order to use FRONT .

- On the gen 2, you'll most likely need to remove the front fender (4 bolts)

From the position of sitting on bike (opposite if facing front end)
- Remove both front brake calipers (2 bolts each); slip calipers off/be gentle!/hang off to side/do NOT touch front brake while they are off.
- Loosen pinch bolts RH side
- Remove Axle bolt RH side
- Loosent pinch bolts LH side
- Remove axle. Make sure you note position of spacer on RH side. Wheel comes off. Take care with rotors if you hit or sit on them they WILL warp.

To put wheel back on, reverse, using correct torque settings. Takes about 3 minutes when you get confident w/it. Took me awhile but I get a lot of satisfaction now.

If you want to change calipers, it's not hard either, but too much to type. Again, ALL contained in service manual and I wouldn't try it without it!

 

[kromdom]

wheels stay on the bike during brake pad changes. p. 517 (SECTION 4B-2)of the service manual, not sure if you already got a copy.

 

[pashnit]

Varies a little, but once you do it a couple times, very simple & quick.

 

[skydivr]

wheels stay on the bike during brake pad changes. p. 517 (SECTION 4B-2)of the service manual, not sure if you already got a copy.

yes you are correct, just responding to direct question of how to get wheel off....great video I've used it too!

 

[FloydV]

Varies a little, but once you do it a couple times, very simple & quick.

That looks easy enough. I have a stand and wrenches. What pads do most people like as replacements? Out of curiosity, how does a mechanic determine that a rotor needs to be replaced? It seems to me that if there is still pad left and the brakes don't make noise, that a rotor wouldn't need replacement. It seems like every time my wife takes her car in, the rotor has to be replaced.

This is a great video. Thanks!

 

[FloydV]

It's a Gen I, and that manual doesn't seem to be nearly as clear as the Gen II manual. The only manual I can find online is for a 99 to 2002 , and mine is a 2005.

Thanks

 

[skydivr]

Motorcycle brakes are different from cars; rotors hardly ever need replacing unless it warps. Pads depend on your riding style, but Galfer/EBC are both great brands. There are several .org supporter/vendors here who can give you great advice/prices!

 

[skydivr]

It's a Gen I, and that manual doesn't seem to be nearly as clear as the Gen II manual. The only manual I can find online is for a 99 to 2002 , and mine is a 2005.

Thanks

99 to 07 are basically the same bike; instructions would be same.

 

[FloydV]

99 to 07 are basically the same bike; instructions would be same.

What I'm finding with the Gen I manual is great diagrams, but very little description of what is to be done. Maybe I'm not using Adobe right.

 

[war69]

Is it ok to scuff the rotors with a sander to remove the glazing if there is any?

 

[skydivr]

What I'm finding with the Gen I manual is great diagrams, but very little description of what is to be done. Maybe I'm not using Adobe right.

Owners manual or 600 page service manual?

 

[dadofthree]

I just purchased EBC Pro Extreme pads. They're suppose to be very aggressive. 1/2 pad I'd wait, plus it will be cooler in the fall or winter. I've got over 29K miles on my factory pads and just decided to get a set. When I change my front tire I'll inspect them again. I've never pulled the front fender on my Gen II and use a RedLine Industrial stand. I do cheat by placing two 2X4's under the stand to give me the added height I need.

I find the Gen II a little easier than the Gen I. I loosen the axle nut and using a rubber mallet I tap the axle out a little at a time. Eventually removing the nut completely and the axle. I reverse that process when pulling the axle in completely.

From memory you can weld a 5/8 nut on a short bolt to remove the Gen I axle nut or spend a lot of money buying the tool.

I've been told to support the front calipers with bungy cords or whatever you have available.

You've already been warned about the rotors. They are delicate .


NOT A MECHANIC

 

[Zrultima]

There a walkthrough just go to goole and type it HERE YOU GO
Let me google that for you

iTS THE LINK THAT SAYS PICTURE INCLUDED 2ND PAGE ON THE BOTTOM

 

[FloydV]

Owners manual or 600 page service manual?

The service manual. An item in particular was adjusting the rear brake pedal. Mine came up with a great diagram, but no words. Someone else posted the same page and it had a description of adjustments under it. Seemed odd.

 

[FloydV]

I just purchased EBC Pro Extreme pads. They're suppose to be very aggressive. 1/2 pad I'd wait, plus it will be cooler in the fall or winter. I've got over 29K miles on my factory pads and just decided to get a set. When I change my front tire I'll inspect them again. I've never pulled the front fender on my Gen II and use a RedLine Industrial stand. I do cheat by placing two 2X4's under the stand to give me the added height I need.

I find the Gen II a little easier than the Gen I. I loosen the axle nut and using a rubber mallet I tap the axle out a little at a time. Eventually removing the nut completely and the axle. I reverse that process when pulling the axle in completely.

From memory you can weld a 5/8 nut on a short bolt to remove the Gen I axle nut or spend a lot of money buying the tool.

I've been told to support the front calipers with bungy cords or whatever you have available.

You've already been warned about the rotors. They are delicate .


NOT A MECHANIC

The reason I thought about the front brakes was because my rear brake was down to metal on metal and I still haven't figured out why. I checked the way I ride, and my boot tip is below the pedal and close to the outside, so I haven't been riding it by accident.

It might have something to do with a dealership putting a new chain, sprockets, and cush rubbers on and leaving out the cotter pin. When I discovered it, the nut was almost finger loose. I torqued it down to specs, but I didn't loosen or otherwise adjust the rear caliper. Other than that I can't think of any reason for the rear pad to go so quickly. They were all the same age and type.

 

[sixpack577]

+1 on the Ebc "Extreme Pro" pads, they make a BIG difference in stopping power. They are also not the same as the standard Ebc pads.