Chain / sprocket wow's.



c10

Registered
Finding my first hurdle with the Apex 6 wheels locating a 530 sized light steel sprocket in this pattern .
76mm Hub Diameter x 100mm Bolt Circle x 5 Bolt (10.5mm holes)
Available in 520 / 525 but not 30 . Why well the Driven rear is already wearing @ 4,xxx miles , the coating is wearing in between the teeth .
 

Dennis

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Finding my first hurdle with the Apex 6 wheels locating a 530 sized light steel sprocket in this pattern .
76mm Hub Diameter x 100mm Bolt Circle x 5 Bolt (10.5mm holes)
Available in 520 / 525 but not 30 . Why well the Driven rear is already wearing @ 4,xxx miles , the coating is wearing in between the teeth .
They aren't the standard ZX12 sprocket?
 
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jellyrug

Donating Member
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I am curious, did the chain drive meaning chain and sprockets run as a set together from new?

I am over 10,000 miles and my chain is still on the same adjustment I made at the 600 mile service. I prefer a little more slack than the service manual specified, but there seems to be insignificant wear.

I have not researched the Hayabusa chain drive, but as normal practice we always specify a maximum wear length over a number of links, exceed that and the sprockets are toast. In some applications we actually supply a gauge, once it fits over a number of links the chain is at maximum allowable wear length. Managing it that way, sprocket life would extend to few new chains.
 

ROADTOAD1340

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Love my ceramic bearings too bro . That chain Bryan , seems on the tight side to me , that noise the chain is making in first vid sounds very much like classic tight chain clicking . I know you are very light compared to my fat ass , but bike on the rear stand , my chain has a nice soft curve rear to front sprocket , so when I sit on the bike , the chain is only then at the correct tension . I use the race stand to adjust , then check it wheels on the ground and me on the bike .
 

Mythos

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Why well the Driven rear is already wearing @ 4,xxx miles , the coating is wearing in between the teeth .
I wouldn't worry about anodized finish coming off where the chain contacts the sprocket if thats what you mean. If it's aluminum, it's bound to wear faster.

The front sprocket did have a lot of slop in it...are you sure that is not normal?? Seems to me if the sprocket nut was holding it down that would obviate the slop in the splines somewhat. I would still go with a new sprocket. That one is worn enough. Maybe a new spacer and nut too if necessary. Did they get squashed maybe? I believe you are supposed to replace them each time you replace the sprocket. I got two uses out of one front sprocket nut on my 14 but maybe I will replace it this winter when I change sprockets.

my chain has a nice soft curve rear to front sprocket , so when I sit on the bike , the chain is only then at the correct tension .
Same here. I was going a bit tighter on the busa than I do the 14 but I think that was because the busa 's cush drive was worn out. I replaced the cush drive rubbers and a looser chain felt normal.

That does sound like an over tight chain and yours does look a little on the tight side. I don't know that it is tight enough to make that noise. I'd suspect the sprocket first since that is definitely not fitting right.
 

ROADTOAD1340

Registered
I run that same chain on the Busa , and if my chain with me on it was that tight , I would be re adjusting to loosen for sure , but that front sprocket is not helping with the click , I can hear it every tooth slotting into chain as well .
The anodized surface coating on the teeth area always wears away , that as Mythos says does not matter , the teeth on that Driven rear look a strange shape and the actual depth for roller looks shallow , are I seeing things , or what ? Probably am eh !!
 

c10

Registered
@jellyrug they were a set @ new 21,000 miles on bird replacing OEM stuff . The Apex rear sprocket was added or swapped into the mix @ 28,xxx miles .

@ROADTOAD1340 I typically run 30 to 35 mm @ center of drive chain using axle shafts as center mark .
suzuki calls for 30 mm . Other makes call for as little as 25 mm up to 40 mm street , and 50 mm ADV type bikes. The KTM 1190R was pretty lose side . RJ had moved into the 40 mm range

@Dennis Core moto told me the 5 bolt was more common , and the ZX12 pattern was going the way of the Dodo bird . Not good news for you , but I'll be willing to throw you my 43 Driven off my Apex set .

@WuzzaCBXRider The output shaft is ok with no damage . The sprocket being lose basicly was not centerd on the shaft causing the LIFT effect every 180 degrees . Making the Pop sound . I took the wifes bike apart to view the sprocket up front , and its centered .

My original sprocket removed @ 345 miles when bike was New , and the first 19 tooth I gave to @mabupa were very tight fitting on the output shaft splines . I'm going to share this with Superlite sprockets .
 

c10

Registered
Well @Dennis big help . Got the rear ordered up in Steel , and a front. The front I went deep into old receipts to obtain Sprocket Specialists part # 653-19 a great fitting unit , but no lighting holes as seen in the video . :(
 

mabupa

Registered
I’ve been thinking about my busa’s drive train. I’m still on the stock chain at almost 16k miles. Rear sprocket has been replaced three times for size or wheel change and I’m still using the front @c10 gave me. Once I recover from the pads and galfer rotor purchase, I’ll start looking at chains.
 


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