Chain Adjustment 101

The Oracle

Registered
The Motorcycle Owner's Manual (MOM) tells us that the tension should be set between 20 - 30mm (0.8 - 1.2 in) of slack. To measure this, the bike should be on its kickstand (since the value will vary if it is upright, on a rear stand, etc.). I use a simple and cheap caliper (that displays millimeters) to check my slack. Remember that the slack goes both ways (i.e. pull the chain down and push it up) this is the slack range to use. Until you are used to it, eyeballing this setting may prove to be WAY off (as I found out).

BTW - What the manual does not tell us, is how much tension to use with your finger. I have talked to numerous sources and the concensus seems to be, "do not use mega-muscle to force the chain into the 20mm realm. A little loose (i.e. 25mm) is prolly better than the manufacturer's minimum. However, when it is new, the 20mm is probably perfect, since the chain will stretch pretty quickly.

1. Remove the cotter pin and loosen the axle nut. The axle nut is 36mm.
2. Loosen the lock nuts on both sides of the tire. They are 12mm.
3. Turn both adjuster bolts (there is one on each side of the bike) to adjust the chains slack. You will find that you don't have to adjust these very far to change the tension a good bit. Make sure to align the rear tire properly. At the very least, use the reference marks to make both sides even. Because the reference marks are not always accurate, RSD suggests measuring the distance between swing-arm center to rear axle center and Narc suggests laying boards or pipes on both sides to make sure the tires line up properly. I have read that many shops use a long length of twine and wrap it around the rear tire and make sure that it is parallel with the front. The adjuster bolts are 10mm.
4. Tighten both lock nuts.
5. Tighten the axle nut with a torque wrench set at 100 Nm (10 kgf-m or 72.5 ft-lb).
9. Re-check the chain slack and make sure it is set properly.
10. Replace the cotter pin.
11. Grab a beer and celebrate!

This entire process takes less than 10 minutes once you understand it all and have done it once or twice.

Everything that is underlined above is shown in the attached detail picture.

Please let me know if you do this a different way, I missed something, or anything is on your mind.

Cheers, Vaughn.

chain.jpg
 
You DA MAN!!!

Stuff like this is going to help me get over my fear of wrenching on my own ride...  I have a Service Manual coming, I got some tools, and I have a garage. So between your pics and Rubberside Browbeating me I should be able to...Hell at least check the tire pressure...Thanks Bro.  
kickass.gif
 
You DA MAN!!!

Stuff like this is going to help me get over my fear of wrenching on my own ride...  I have a Service Manual coming, I got some tools, and I have a garage. So between your pics and Rubberside Browbeating me I should be able to...Hell at least check the tire pressure...Thanks Bro.  
kickass.gif
No prob... I just hope others do the same type of postings.

I have a manual coming too, bought the '03 one on ebay.
 
The Motorcycle Owner's Manual (MOM) tells us that the tension should be set between 20 - 30mm (0.8 - 1.2 in) of slack.  To measure this, the bike should be on its kickstand (since the value will vary if it is upright, on a rear stand, etc.).  I use a simple and cheap caliper (that displays millimeters) to check my slack.  Remember that the slack goes both ways (i.e. pull the chain down and push it up) this is the slack range to use.  Until you are used to it, eyeballing this setting may prove to be WAY off (as I found out).

BTW - What the manual does not tell us, is how much tension to use with your finger.  I have talked to numerous sources and the concensus seems to be, "do not use mega-muscle to force the chain into the 20mm realm.  A little loose (i.e. 25mm) is prolly better than the manufacturer's minimum.  However, when it is new, the 20mm is probably perfect, since the chain will stretch pretty quickly.

1.  Remove the cotter pin and loosen the axle nut.  The axle nut is 36mm.
2.  Loosen the lock nuts on both sides of the tire.  They are 12mm.
3.  Turn both adjuster bolts (there is one on each side of the bike) to adjust the chains slack.  You will find that you don't have to adjust these very far to change the tension a good bit.  Make sure to align the rear tire properly.  At the very least, use the reference marks to make both sides even.  Because the reference marks are not always accurate, RSD suggests measuring the distance between swing-arm center to rear axle center and Narc suggests laying boards or pipes on both sides to make sure the tires line up properly.  I have read that many shops use a long length of twine and wrap it around the rear tire and make sure that it is parallel with the front.  The adjuster bolts are 10mm.
4.  Tighten both lock nuts.
5.  Tighten the axle nut with a torque wrench set at 100 Nm (10 kgf-m or 72.5 ft-lb).
9.  Re-check the chain slack and make sure it is set properly.
10.  Replace the cotter pin.
11.  Grab a beer and celebrate!

This entire process takes less than 10 minutes once you understand it all and have done it once or twice.

Everything that is underlined above is shown in the attached detail picture.

Please let me know if you do this a different way, I missed something, or anything is on your mind.

Cheers, Vaughn.
Rip/V/Orc you really go to town wiff dis shid don' ya.
OK....next tell me how to build a mini-mall in the jungle,if I were stranded on a deserted island...using only dental floss,4 popsicle sticks,and an' apple core .

Rip.....U crack me up every time.....
 
Don't forget to check the chain for any tight spots. There are usually one or two after some mileage and the chain should be adjusted at the said tight spot
 
I stopped using a cotter pin. I now have one of the quick release pins like on a tractor. You can just pull on the thing with a strong arm and it releases. Lots better than the cotter and reusealbe. Pick um up at any autoparts store, only cost like three bucks or so.
 
I like to check my chain while sitting on it, that is the way it is ridden, and it only seems to get tighter when i sit on the bike.

Could just be my fat ass, I dunno.............
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maybe it was already said???but... rotate back tire and find the tight spot in the chain before you adjust or you might be too tight after you adjust due to the sprockets being a little out of round..
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OMG guys!!

This thread is ancient!!! Posted On: Jun. 03 2003, 11
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PM


Too bad the Oracle isn't posting up anymore
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No cotter pin on the '08's. I don't know if that's good or bad. It always made me feel a little more secure.
 
Adjust the slack while you're sitting on the bike.

--Wag--
 
gonna revive this old thread to ask a quick question:

so just how much force should you use to push the chain up and down? I'm sure light pressure isn't gonna cut it. If mega-muscle pressure as Oracle says is too much, then just "firm" pressure?
 
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