The Oracle
Registered
The Motorcycle Owner's Manual (MOM) tells us that the tension should be set between 20 - 30mm (0.8 - 1.2 in) of slack. To measure this, the bike should be on its kickstand (since the value will vary if it is upright, on a rear stand, etc.). I use a simple and cheap caliper (that displays millimeters) to check my slack. Remember that the slack goes both ways (i.e. pull the chain down and push it up) this is the slack range to use. Until you are used to it, eyeballing this setting may prove to be WAY off (as I found out).
BTW - What the manual does not tell us, is how much tension to use with your finger. I have talked to numerous sources and the concensus seems to be, "do not use mega-muscle to force the chain into the 20mm realm. A little loose (i.e. 25mm) is prolly better than the manufacturer's minimum. However, when it is new, the 20mm is probably perfect, since the chain will stretch pretty quickly.
1. Remove the cotter pin and loosen the axle nut. The axle nut is 36mm.
2. Loosen the lock nuts on both sides of the tire. They are 12mm.
3. Turn both adjuster bolts (there is one on each side of the bike) to adjust the chains slack. You will find that you don't have to adjust these very far to change the tension a good bit. Make sure to align the rear tire properly. At the very least, use the reference marks to make both sides even. Because the reference marks are not always accurate, RSD suggests measuring the distance between swing-arm center to rear axle center and Narc suggests laying boards or pipes on both sides to make sure the tires line up properly. I have read that many shops use a long length of twine and wrap it around the rear tire and make sure that it is parallel with the front. The adjuster bolts are 10mm.
4. Tighten both lock nuts.
5. Tighten the axle nut with a torque wrench set at 100 Nm (10 kgf-m or 72.5 ft-lb).
9. Re-check the chain slack and make sure it is set properly.
10. Replace the cotter pin.
11. Grab a beer and celebrate!
This entire process takes less than 10 minutes once you understand it all and have done it once or twice.
Everything that is underlined above is shown in the attached detail picture.
Please let me know if you do this a different way, I missed something, or anything is on your mind.
Cheers, Vaughn.
BTW - What the manual does not tell us, is how much tension to use with your finger. I have talked to numerous sources and the concensus seems to be, "do not use mega-muscle to force the chain into the 20mm realm. A little loose (i.e. 25mm) is prolly better than the manufacturer's minimum. However, when it is new, the 20mm is probably perfect, since the chain will stretch pretty quickly.
1. Remove the cotter pin and loosen the axle nut. The axle nut is 36mm.
2. Loosen the lock nuts on both sides of the tire. They are 12mm.
3. Turn both adjuster bolts (there is one on each side of the bike) to adjust the chains slack. You will find that you don't have to adjust these very far to change the tension a good bit. Make sure to align the rear tire properly. At the very least, use the reference marks to make both sides even. Because the reference marks are not always accurate, RSD suggests measuring the distance between swing-arm center to rear axle center and Narc suggests laying boards or pipes on both sides to make sure the tires line up properly. I have read that many shops use a long length of twine and wrap it around the rear tire and make sure that it is parallel with the front. The adjuster bolts are 10mm.
4. Tighten both lock nuts.
5. Tighten the axle nut with a torque wrench set at 100 Nm (10 kgf-m or 72.5 ft-lb).
9. Re-check the chain slack and make sure it is set properly.
10. Replace the cotter pin.
11. Grab a beer and celebrate!
This entire process takes less than 10 minutes once you understand it all and have done it once or twice.
Everything that is underlined above is shown in the attached detail picture.
Please let me know if you do this a different way, I missed something, or anything is on your mind.
Cheers, Vaughn.