Hauie
Guest
I wish.. i wish. that military ID is going to be near impossible to replace.
Can't back up the busa
- Thread starter Hauie
- Start date
If the front as well as the rear rotors are binding, I would refrain from removing pads and calipers. You have to figure out where the pressure in your brake system is coming from. On a 2018 it is highly unlikely that your master cylinder has failed.
Suggest you bleed your brakes properly and try again.
Kiwi Rider
Registered
flat tyre not brakes lol
Hauie
Guest
Err OK so the OP Did not realize that he's got a flat tyre before he rides off How long has he been riding motorcycles I wonder
Not long at all lol. I noticed the handling felt entirely weird when I got 2 feet out of the driveway, but figured it was something I'd handle at the shop down the street.
May want to pick up a tire pressure gauge.A pre-ride look-see is always a good idea. Did the Yammie dealer give you the speech about new tires?
They are actually just as slippery if not worse that worn tires. You need a few easy miles on a new tire,gradually leaning it over in corners till you reach the edge of where you lean to.A pre-ride inspection would have alerted you to a flat tire,which can cause a crash.
Rubb.
They are actually just as slippery if not worse that worn tires. You need a few easy miles on a new tire,gradually leaning it over in corners till you reach the edge of where you lean to.A pre-ride inspection would have alerted you to a flat tire,which can cause a crash.
Rubb.
ottafish
Registered
Never a truer word.
Tires, oil, lights. Everytime.
Deeper inspection during the wash cycle.
(laughing quietly to self) You will, one day, young padawan. Wait for the bug - bite you, it will! (that's a Star Wars reference btw)
Kiwi Rider
Registered
oooooooh boy . . . then the ride will be . . . different.
Mythos
Registered
I haven't looked your new tire up but being a cruiser tire, I imagine it has high sidewalls kind of like a car tire and the tread has only a slight round to it. A sportbike tire has very narrow sidewalls (where the writing is) and the profile is round from edge to edge so the bike can rock left to right in a lean. This tire might handle better than OEM tires on some cruisers and it probably will wear longer but that tire wouldn't improve handling over any sportbike tire. I've heard of people using a cruiser tire on a sportbike for touring. If you don't corner agressively, it will be just fine but it's going to look goofy.
Berlin Germany
Registered
dear?
both calipers are faulty i would say.
because at both the outer piston came out a lot while the the inner stays deep inside the caliper.
if anything is well maintained both pistons should come out same amount.
so i would have a very strange look at the two calipers.
___________________________________
and to the question what clearance the pads have to have to the disc is easy.
as low as possible, because the bigger it was the more volume of the fluid you have to pump via the master and sometimes the masters come to their end and you have to pull/step the hand-lever / foot-pedal a second time to get the brake working.
and THEN you get this kind of eyes
i suggest the pad/disc clearance at proper working calipers should be between (not bigger than) 3/100 and 5/100 mm (less than 10/100 = 1/10)
and such a small gap you can´t meassure bye eyes, i would say.
calculate the two volumes you have
1. at the master available when its piston does its whole way
2. at the calipers and how much vol. they need to bring the pads to disc contact
and then compare this two volumes
i never measured the gap at proper working calipers / brakes but i tell ya my feeling.
with a gap of, let´s say 2-3/10 , i suppose you would have the feeling to grab into a nothing when pulling the lever / stepping the pedal the 1st time.
the 3/10 mm gap i took from page 6-67 of the gen1 manual where suzuki writes a max tolerance of the disc at
"Front disc runout: Service Limit: 0.30 mm (0.012 in)"
if you ever had a not-flat / little bent disc at a bike and if you pushed the bike 1-2 m and pulled the lever you should have had the feeling of grabbing into nothing.
reason 4 that - the only a very litlle bit bent disc pushes the pistons via the "high-point" back into caliper(s) by the pads, the gap becomes too big and brake never is a brake that second.
i personally had that super bad feeleing
already 2 times at two different bikes while taking the bikes off / down of my bench and it was so frightening and scary - believe in me you never wanna feel this fear !the bikes speeded up a bit and i feared to loose em out of control - i was pretty near/close to a heart attack.
at last.
both / all pistons (no question how many pistons you have in the caliper) imperatively have to come out evenly - if they don't, there is something very faulty (up to be rotten) in the system and the brake calipers imperatively have to be dismantled and deeply cleaned as I have described it here on my hp.
this behavior you can meet at every kind of hydraulic brake - the type of the bike never matters at all.
and please always remember - your life depends on proper / 100% working brakes.
only 99% is never enough.
Berlin Germany
Registered
that is one of the experiances you made once and wich lasts a life long.
after some years you will have the same feeling for nice / weird rolling tires like me and others here.
nowadays i can tell you if the tires don´t have the correct pressure only by pushing a bike some 2 or 3 meters.
my life/health saving hint was to control the tire pressure at last at every 2nd or (at the very latest) 3rd fuel refilling.
(little other hint btw. : i put aluminium angled air valves into the rims to get the easiest work of control as possible)
Obviously that tire is gonna be better then your flat one but the speed rating is only for 149 max mph.
Hauie
Guest
That'll be fine, we usually just cruise in groups anyways. I've ridden my road bicycle like 11k miles this year and barely put 500 on my busa. Lesson learned lol, it was the only tire that was a 200/55 at the store and I didn't want to wait.
I thought it took a 190, no?
Hauie
Guest
I've read a lot on people upgrading to a 200/55 for the rears and it being a very common thing to do.
I just meant that I’d take a 190 super bike tire over a cruiser 200, if I had a choice.
Mythos
Registered
Yes a 190/55 sportbike tire would look normal on a busa. A 190/55 is stock size. A 200/55 will make it tip in easier and IMHO looks even better than the stock size plus I think they stay round longer rather than flattening off in the middle like a cruiser tire. A 200/55 cruiser tire ................was a waste....but don't worry about it. You got your bike running now. That cruiser tire might be more comfy for the GF. No insult intended but when you don't know what you don't know, it's tough to make a decision without advice. Ask a lot of questions here like a broken record if you want. That's what I do . If I had no other choice than a cruiser tire, I'd go with the cheapest one possible because I'd be changing it ASAP. I don't do burnouts yet but if I did....I'd do it on that cruiser tire. Whoever that tire shop is, they should have given you better info I think. As time goes on, you might want to try a different tire place. It just sounds like a place apes are woking and don't give a crap or know wtf their doing.
Actually the OEM size is 190/50.
Maybe not a waste for the OP. He said he just cruises when he does ride. So handling and speed rating won’t really matter to him. And as for the shop giving him better info... They probably gave him the normal info... Between the touring guy, drag racing guys and the infamous busa bro’s i think we have made wide tires more normal than the stock widths lol
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