Busa Starts Then Won't Restart

Richard Szabo

Richard Szabo

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Hey guys I'm new to the forum and I got a question I have been trying to solve for 2 years now. I've always had to keep my 2009 turbo busa (Hahn stage 1) on a trickle charger since I've owned it, otherwise in 2 to 3 days the battery would be dead. I just bought a brand new battery last year. I just tore off the rear tail today because yesterday the busa left me stranded. I took it off the trickle charger and rode about 25mins and I turned off the bike for maybe 2 mins and she wouldn't restart. Just clicking like a dead battery. I did a parasitic draw test today and it was 50mA is that too much? Also I tested the stator and on all three legs I got 50VAC @ 5k rpm. I then had the bike running and unplugged the output to the battery and my voltage started dropping fast on the battery terminals and the. I plugged it back in while the bike was still running and the battery jumped back up to 13.2v @ idle. The only add ons that I have are a led kit and the turbo. Can someone please help me get to the bottom of this problem. Thanks in advance.
 
Less than 3 MA sir. Disconnect the LEDs and try it again. Have that battery tested. Alarm System ?
 
Ok thanks. No to the alarm system but I did forget to say I also installed an rfid system to my ignition switch for an extra line of security.
 
Correction I just tested with leds not installed and it's pulling 29.39mA for some reason I thought I read 50mA before.
 
Hopefully this helps, looking at the specs, it does not look like your stator is good.

upload_2017-6-13_12-7-11.png
 
Richard Szabo said:
I did same 29.39mA
Click to expand...

You need to start tracking that drain down. You're stating ten times the max draw. With test meter hooked up, start pulling fuses one at a time until part or all of that drain disappears and then start checking the guilty circuit.
 
Well I'm feeling really dumb right now. I just went outside to get to the bottom of this parasitic draw and wow. I also forgot to mention that I have a aftermarket boost gauge and fuel pressure gauge. So I disconnected one and my draw went to 24mA then disconnected the other gauge and my draw went to 9mA, sweet!!! But less than 3mA is acceptable so I look around and I disconnected the negative lead for my rfid but not the positive smh!!! Now my draw is .53mA!!!!!!! So I am just going to hook up the gauge 12v and 12v keyed to a 12v keyed source and my rfid also to a 12v keyed source and my parasitic draw problem should be no longer a problem.
I also retested the stator because I think I was testing it incorrectly and now I am getting 90v from the stator. So I believe that is good.
I just got my battery swapped out on a warranty so I know that's good. Now I just need to put it back together and get her warm and see if she restarts hot. I will be so happy if I can get this bike up and running without having to bring it in to a shop.
 
So basically if you're not riding you need to be plugged up, or figure out how to place everything but the RFID on switched power.
 
Excellent powers of deduction guys.
I'm an auto tech by profession and that is exactly how ( pulling fuses to identify the guilty circuit) I was trained to find current draw with ignition switched OFF.
Obviously the f/press. and boost gauges are the issue so route them through the ignition circuit to eliminate the current draw with ign. switched OFF.
I love this poop :thumbsup:

My bike also had an electrical issue when I took possession of it. The battery went flat on a number of occasions, always had to have it on the trickle charger, slow cranking, flickering lights while running, erratic charge rate always below 13.2V.
I did the tests and it turned out someone had fitted a switch on the main ignition circuit wire and the spade connector on the wire to the switch had gone green and had massive resistance.
I cut that switch out and soldered the wires back to stock setup and voila! All back to normal. Charge rate is solid now, between 13.8V and 15.2V depending on load etc.
I never have to trickle it now and cranking is fast
Hoooooooray!!! :banana::beerchug:
 
Last edited:
Ok I got the new battery and the new mosfet rectifier installed. Resting battery is at 13.15v and it has a .53mA draw with the bike OFF. When I start it up my voltage drops to 11.3v, then jumps up to 13.75v. I then ran the bike up to operating temp shut it off and tried to start it 30 seconds later and she fired right up!!!! Keeping my fingers crossed that all the gremlins are out now.
 
I talked to some guys at work and they were arguing with me over the 30mA draw I had on my bike. Is 30mA enough to kill my battery after 3 or 4 days of not ridding and not on the trickle??? They don't think so.
 
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