Busa cutting out :-(

R4V3N

Registered
Hi all

I need help please!!!!

my busa (2001) has started cutting out after about 20 miles when im coming to a stop (junction/slowing to turn). It cuts out i flick the kill switch on and off (sometimes twice) and it fires up again and seems fine when moving.

Oil level is at full, coolant ok and yes it has petrol. Also the temp gauge reads normal.

any ideas??? :please:

thanks in advance
 

MC MUSTANG

Peace Keeper or Ban Hammer-it's up to you; IDMBT#9
Staff member
Administrator
Registered
What is your idle set to?
 

IG.

Registered
The most likely cause is that you have a bad electrical connection in one of the connectors - being that it's '01 and had its share of heat/humidity cycles. Exactly the same thing happened to mine, also '01. It used to cut out once a year, then once every few months, and then almost on every ride. I took all the plastics off, one at a time disconnected all connectors, cleaned with contact cleaner spray and/or a sharp object scraping the oxidized surface, stuffed with dialectric grease, and closed them up - to never have this problem again. Take your time - some connectors are stubborn and you don't want to break any of them.

Pretty scary experience. I didn't even have to work the kill switch. Just pull the clutch, and hit the starter button. BTW, at times, it also threw a FI code - which of course was meaningless.

And yes, the question about the idle setting should be asked first, LOL. Another silly question, are you pulling the clutch in so that rpm does not drop to almost zero?
 

R4V3N

Registered
hi IG

yea it shows F1 light and oil light which never makes any sense as you say. When you say connectors do you mean every single plug/socket on the bike or is there specific connectors you're refering too?

thanks very much
 

nyrican

Registered
90% chance it's your tip over sensor....try to get the code by using the jumper trick, and that should narrow down where to start looking
 

IG.

Registered
hi IG

yea it shows F1 light and oil light which never makes any sense as you say. When you say connectors do you mean every single plug/socket on the bike or is there specific connectors you're refering too?

thanks very much

Now that you mentioned the codes which make no sense, I would be pretty convinced about bad connectors. Yes, every single plug/connector on the bike - battery, ECU, fuel pump, fuel injectors, spark plugs, etc. - all of them. You don't know which one, and it will take you a long time to figure out which one exactly. And even if you find that one, I can assure you that some other connector is about to fail. So, the most practical way is to take this as a sign of needed maintenance. It will take you a few hours, but it's all worth it in the long run. All you need is a flashlight to look inside every connector, contact cleaner spray, and dialectric grease - from any auto parts store. Maybe something sharp and a piece of sandpaper (200 grit or so) to scrape oxidation. Oh, wear protective goggles when you spray contact cleaner inside the connectors. It sprays out with high pressure in order to get rid of the junk inside the connectors. I guarantee that a drop or two may get in your face. Also, be patient. Some of these connectors are stubborn. Use the flashlight and figure out what needs to be pressed, and how open them. You don't want to rush and break any of the connectors.
 

Lillblack

Registered
I had that same problem a few years ago on my hayabusa. I don't know what caused it but I paid 725$ to get it fixed at a shop.
 

R4V3N

Registered
thanks guys!! i will have a go at cleaning the connectors and check the tip over sensor and let ya know
 

R4V3N

Registered
just been speaking with a mate and he said have i checked shims!?

my busa has done 13k miles when should the shims be done and would this make it run rough/cut out as well?

im thinking maybe its time she had a major service - what do you guys think?

thanks
 

IG.

Registered
At 13k miles your valve clearances are likely to be perfectly OK, although a good idea to check anyway - per service manual recommendations. How would even slightly out of spec valve clearances create your problem? Just makes no sense.
 

R4V3N

Registered
yea i thought the shims would be ok just my mate worring me unnecessarily i think

but i thought it best to check with you guys... plug stripping it is then :banghead:

thanks for all ya help :thumbsup:
 

dadofthree

Seasoned Beef
Donating Member
Registered
hi IG

yea it shows F1 light and oil light which never makes any sense as you say. When you say connectors do you mean every single plug/socket on the bike or is there specific connectors you're refering too?

thanks very much

You need to find that code. Yes, when the engine dies the oil light is gonna come on. Not being a smart azz , but you are turning the fsat idle switch off ?
 

IG.

Registered
There is no harm in reading the code. I actually installed a switch on my previous bike to be able to quickly toggle between dealer mode and non-dealer mode, so all I had to do was to stop the bike and flip the switch. However, when there is in intermittent problem, the codes may not be consistent which may only confuse the issue. In my case, when the engine was randomly cutting off, sometimes I would get a code or two, sometimes I wouldn't. They were quite inconsistent. Bottom line - there is a bad connection in one of the connectors, and there is a potential for other connectors to go bad. The least time consuming process is to clean all connectors and be done with it. After I cleaned all connectors on the bike, I didn't have such problem even once. It was gone. The psychological factor was also important, in that I had a good level of confidence and didn't have any thoughts in the back of my mind, thinking that a new bad connection could ruin a ride. I could go riding for a full day out in the country, or do a track day, even in the rain, and I knew the bike wouldn't start cutting off.
 

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