Busa battery...the latest and greatest...CCA/reliability/etc

Finally had a break in the rain while I was home and did some tests. I believe the rec/reg is the issue even though I measured good and equal continuity from the plug.

I am getting increasing AC voltage from the 3-wire plug directly off of the stator as well as the plug that goes to the reg/rec. New stator is definitely working! The only DC voltage I get is from the battery, which runs the bike until it cuts off at 12.5V or 12.7V due to the BMS system in it.
@TallTom I removed all fuses, cleaned up the contacts with sandpaper, and reinstalled only the "main" fuse by the battery+ignition+fuel. No change, but great idea to test.

Since I paid big bucks for the lithium battery, I am looking at getting Rick's hot shot reg/rec specifically for lithium batteries unless anyone says otherwise.
When u tested the stator leads did you first check that none of the leads had continuity to ground?? I've screwed myself a few times not doing that and had voltage coming from the stator but it was still shorted to ground of course in those cases its usually but not always a situation of the battery dying over night not while running. What was your a/c voltage reading from the stator?
 
When u tested the stator leads did you first check that none of the leads had continuity to ground?? I've screwed myself a few times not doing that and had voltage coming from the stator but it was still shorted to ground of course in those cases its usually but not always a situation of the battery dying over night not while running. What was your a/c voltage reading from the stator?
I think at idle it was 16V and it reached 20-30V at X<2500 RPM*. I just saw it producing plenty of voltage and went on to testing something else.
*I was sitting on the left side of the bike with the plug so I used my fast idle lever which maxes out at 2500RPM.

I couldn't tell you specifically which one it was, but one of the corner spades in the stator plug would not display any readings when connected to the others. If it is shorted to ground, what can I do to the current rec/reg OR fix so I don't instantly screw up the new one that is on the way?
 
I think at idle it was 16V and it reached 20-30V at X<2500 RPM*. I just saw it producing plenty of voltage and went on to testing something else.
*I was sitting on the left side of the bike with the plug so I used my fast idle lever which maxes out at 2500RPM.

I couldn't tell you specifically which one it was, but one of the corner spades in the stator plug would not display any readings when connected to the others. If it is shorted to ground, what can I do to the current rec/reg OR fix so I don't instantly screw up the new one that is on the way?
If one on your leads coming out of the stator was not reading then you have a problem with the stator. Take your meter and test for continuity between each lead from the stator and the other end of the meter in the bare engine block and see if it had continuity if so that guarantees the stator is bad. I have had stators go out and the regulator still work fine but I would to those tests first.
 
If one on your leads coming out of the stator was not reading then you have a problem with the stator. Take your meter and test for continuity between each lead from the stator and the other end of the meter in the bare engine block and see if it had continuity if so that guarantees the stator is bad. I have had stators go out and the regulator still work fine but I would to those tests first.
My bad, my bad...the REC/REG plug had one spade that didn't read anything. There are 5 or 6 prongs that stick out of the stator plug and one of them read nothing, which was one of the corner prongs.
Stator plug only has 3 slots under the gas tank, and I could read AC voltage from the yellow wires at the female connections for he REG/REC.

AC power is going to the REC/REG, but no DC power is coming out afterwards. Battery is restoring around .3-.5V by itself as I am draining it to around 12.5V running the bike while testing and it is bringing itself back up to 13V within 24hrs.
 
My bad, my bad...the REC/REG plug had one spade that didn't read anything. There are 5 or 6 prongs that stick out of the stator plug and one of them read nothing, which was one of the corner prongs.
Stator plug only has 3 slots under the gas tank, and I could read AC voltage from the yellow wires at the female connections for he REG/REC.

AC power is going to the REC/REG, but no DC power is coming out afterwards. Battery is restoring around .3-.5V by itself as I am draining it to around 12.5V running the bike while testing and it is bringing itself back up to 13V within 24hrs.
OK that is a little better, if those are testing good and none of them have continuity to ground i would next test the bike side of the harness at the regulator to make sure that with key on there is 12 volts getting to the regulator (I'm not sure which pin it would be). If there is power getting there the only thing left is the regulator. I know I've read thru your posts but it's been awhile so I probably asked before but did you jump start the bike with a car at all or possibly a battery charger set on jump start?
 
OK that is a little better, if those are testing good and none of them have continuity to ground i would next test the bike side of the harness at the regulator to make sure that with key on there is 12 volts getting to the regulator (I'm not sure which pin it would be). If there is power getting there the only thing left is the regulator. I know I've read thru your posts but it's been awhile so I probably asked before but did you jump start the bike with a car at all or possibly a battery charger set on jump start?
Yes, I have jumped it 6-8x total. 4 or 5 of those times was during the last ride when she died on the way home and started this rabbit hole. Car was turned OFF every time I had to use it.
I will double check the continuity this afternoon if I ever get to leave work :p
 
Yes, I have jumped it 6-8x total. 4 or 5 of those times was during the last ride when she died on the way home and started this rabbit hole. Car was turned OFF every time I had to use it.
I will double check the continuity this afternoon if I ever get to leave work :p
As long as the car was off it shouldn't be the cause of the issue then, check the stator and make sure it has no continuity to ground then if good test for 12 volts at the regulator plug on the harness and let me know. If you ever get out of work that is :poke: :laugh:
 
SOLVED: Rectifier/Regulator $170 to Rick's electric would have solved the problem from the beginning, but now I can twist the fun stick again!
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Unless I'm just really dumb, it does not look like the old stator was grounded out so I'm not sure what made it crap out.
 
SOLVED: Rectifier/Regulator $170 to Rick's electric would have solved the problem from the beginning, but now I can twist the fun stick again!
View attachment 1633752
Unless I'm just really dumb, it does not look like the old stator was grounded out so I'm not sure what made it crap out.
Glad to hear this. I don't know what makes them go bad, but I'm paying attention to this.
 
SOLVED: Rectifier/Regulator $170 to Rick's electric would have solved the problem from the beginning, but now I can twist the fun stick again!
View attachment 1633752
Unless I'm just really dumb, it does not look like the old stator was grounded out so I'm not sure what made it crap out.
If it was shorted to ground you'd know two quick either by it not charging or the battery gong dead when it sits for a couple days. Good to see it fixed and your riding again.
 
Glad to hear this. I don't know what makes them go bad, but I'm paying attention to this.
A lot of times I find that a bad battery can cause the system to over charge and will burn them up, also if the bike is jump started with a vehicle that is running or an old style battery charger in the jump start setting can fry them as well or even if you jump start em and let the bikes charging system try to bring the battery back up out can put a strain on em as well as just being old. Quite a few things to make em go out but those are the most common.
 
A lot of times I find that a bad battery can cause the system to over charge and will burn them up, also if the bike is jump started with a vehicle that is running or an old style battery charger in the jump start setting can fry them as well or even if you jump start em and let the bikes charging system try to bring the battery back up out can put a strain on em as well as just being old. Quite a few things to make em go out but those are the most common.
Good to know. I'll keep this in mind. Can they be "rebuilt"? I mean it seems like in theory the innards would be straightforward electronic components.
 
A lot of times I find that a bad battery can cause the system to over charge and will burn them up, also if the bike is jump started with a vehicle that is running or an old style battery charger in the jump start setting can fry them as well or even if you jump start em and let the bikes charging system try to bring the battery back up out can put a strain on em as well as just being old. Quite a few things to make em go out but those are the most common.
Likely, what happened is the battery was bad and I forced it to keep working which caused the rec/reg to fry. I jumped the battery with a vehicle several times and then the last time I did it the rec/reg was toasted since battery wouldn't charge. The acid battery lasting less than 2 years is pretty trash, but oh well.
Since the battery and rec/reg had to be replaced, I only spent unnecessary money on the stator.
 
Likely, what happened is the battery was bad and I forced it to keep working which caused the rec/reg to fry. I jumped the battery with a vehicle several times and then the last time I did it the rec/reg was toasted since battery wouldn't charge. The acid battery lasting less than 2 years is pretty trash, but oh well.
Since the battery and rec/reg had to be replaced, I only spent unnecessary money on the stator.
It's not a bad thing to change all 3 together anyway, usually if the money is available i suggest it anyway.
 
Good to know. I'll keep this in mind. Can they be "rebuilt"? I mean it seems like in theory the innards would be straightforward electronic components.
I've never known anywhere to rebuild them and since the only thing that would be reused is the case I don't think it'd be worth it
 
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