BST Wheels





SS14PSI

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If I made at least $300k/year, sure. I figure anything less than that and I could find much more pressing things to spend that kind of coin on. I'd love a set, but that kind of money on something that's not a necessity is just plain out of my league unfortunately.
 

pan

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I think you'll find, as a general rule, those that have them or have tried them, absolutely love them and think the difference they make in handling and performance is great value for the money. Generally, those that criticise, find fault or put them down, haven't tried them! :whistle:
 

Mythos

Registered
I decided to post on this thread since the other recent one is so long (but I highly recommend reading)/

https://www.hayabusa.org/forum/threads/bst-carbon-fiber-wheels-for-gen-ii.191320/

So -- The R and R+ designations are for reinforced rims, they are very lightweight mostly centered around the hub, very low moment of inertia....might crack easier than a metal rim not only from a pothole impact but possibly from very high power--maybe not a wise choice for a boosted busa making much higher than stock hp and no matter what you do, better know how you're going to get tires mounted on these because tire shops are famous for damaging rims.

Got it.

My only question is: what exact wheel number do you get for best performance? R is heavier so not that. There's wider and narrower rims? Why?

Anything else I should know about the options in BST rims?
 

ROADTOAD1340

Registered
I'd say the size range is for recommended for certain applications , more than others . But there will always be desired applications where type crossover occurs . The 16" front and the rear 6.625" for drag racing . The 17" also for drag racers , but also for closed circuit road racers and streetbikes . The road racers and streetbikes would mostly stick to the 6.00" & 6.25 options , because of readily available tire size for fitment . The R series are for anyone wanting the best strength option , so again drag racers with big power may opt for this insurance , and still get a lighter than most / all others wheel . There are now also a split spoke design , latest BST , might even be lighter than the conventional 5 spoke . I have original in 6'00" and 6.25" size rims , they are both fitted with different sized tires 190/55 and 200/55 RS10 respectively , and are geared with smaller tire 45t and 47t on the big .
 

c10

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As much as I would love to own a set the decision was made to move forward with a set of CZ forged Aluminum wheels at a fraction of the BST price . With all the touring we do the BST would just be overkill , and one could throw the extra funds at TITANIUM HARDWARE ;)
FYI I opened a second savings account yesterday for my CZ wheel slush fund . May of 2019 should make my order of Titanium finish wheels
 

Mythos

Registered
The 16" front and the rear 6.625" for drag racing . The 17" also for drag racers , but also for closed circuit road racers and streetbikes . The road racers and streetbikes would mostly stick to the 6.00" & 6.25 options , because of readily available tire size for fitment .
AWESOME! imagine a 17" with a 200/55 on it and a 16" front!! You've got literbike rake right there. Lowered ocrnering clearance in front too though.

There are now also a split spoke design , latest BST, might even be lighter than the conventional 5 spoke .
I don't care for the looks as much but if they're lighter, I might get those. The ad I read says they're offer greatly reduced weight but it doesn't say if they are comparing that to the weight of the original design or just OEM wheels in general. The split fork design looks heavier than the original design. The spokes are arched like a single sided swing arm wheel. I'm guessing that is to enhance the flexion if the wheel takes a hard bump.

My guess is that the split fork design is heavier than the original design but you never know--those clunky lookin wheels made by Rotobox are supposed to be even lighter than BST.

As much as I would love to own a set the decision was made to move forward with a set of CZ forged Aluminum wheels at a fraction of the BST price .
I have a set of Tri-Rs for my 14. They do not make them for that bike (I actually think I got the the last set they manufactured--possibly). They look amazing and have held up well for 20,000 miles. Only wear to the finish is two or tree tiny ticks from tire irons, mostly. The anodizing is exceptionally thick and looks gorgeous. The Tri-R design has to be less strong than some of their other wheels but I have had no trouble yet and I did ride up an 7~8" deep hole in the pavement last summer. As for performance, I definitely notice a feel of reduced gyroscopic force in a corner that I like but it took two years to get used to it. It felt a lot more likely to fly out in a corner at high rpm although it never has. I would buy these again as a great looking alternative to CF. Like you, I did not want to shell out the money for a set of CF wheels when I could have forged aluminum for less than half the price.

I will recommend 58-cycle as a CZ supplier with good support and a great price although it took CZ about 8 months to get the wheels to 58-cycle. 58-cycle offered to cancel for me a couple times but NO WAY--I wanted those wheels! As mentioned, I suspect it was CZ dragging their feet because the Tri-R had officially been put out of production for the ZX14 for some time. There had been no other ads for ZX-14 Tri-Rs for at least a year.

I've looked into CZ and Marchesini. I'd rather have the forged wheels myself.
See above. They look great. They feel lighter in a corner and I feel a stronger sensation of acceleration. I've insisted on doing the back breaking work of installing my own tires and I'm getting a bit quicker at it but if you're going to be careful, it's a tedious and labor intensive process. I'd suggest a Cycle Hill tire changer. But there's another $400 bucks. Worth it. The price of a decent set of tires. I can't really recoment learning tire changing with irons on expensive wheels although that is what I have done. It is a daylong procedure for me being very careful.
 

Mythos

Registered
BST looks the best by far but the Rotobox Boost rims aren't too bad looking for a couple hundred le$$ than BST. I like that Rotobox takes the time to finish the wheels inside and out. Looks like they copied BST or vice-versa on the arched spoke design (at least the back is arched on Boost). I'd really need to see some weight specs on the Boost rims. The original Rotobox was lighter than BST according to these guys:

https://www.veloxracing.com/wp/2016/01/19/rotobox-v-blackstonetek-bst-carbon-wheels/?v=7516fd43adaa
 

ROADTOAD1340

Registered
True , the Rotobox are lighter than the BST originals at least , and are finished off nicely outside the rim surface , and may even be shipped in aluminum box , but for extra $ I think . But , Rotobox wheels started out with some manufacturing issues , and quality control was not great by all reports I read at that period . Still would be a very nice carbon wheel , and though thick spoked , promise good strength , definitely a worthy competitor to BST , now things are all pretty well sorted .
The BST has had some documented fails , but numbers sold throughout the world , compared to known catastrophic or lesser fails , is acceptable enough .
As C10 said , he feels there are better wheels for his mile munching Busa all round application , and I agree .
Guess it all comes down to what you want out of your bike and then choose the wheels best suited to that end .
My L2 really is suited to BST application , stripped of excess weight , and given good suspension , it handles all I throw at it very well , and I really feel I have the very best bike out of choice of any for me , for comfort and all round ability , and peerless grunt . But in all honesty , if I was a younger less banged up Toad , I'd have a 1000CC bike of some description for hills / track days etc. . My Busa would still sport the same component and weight loss mods including BST , except I would Penske rear drag shock it and Traction Dynamic the stock fork , with some engine work would be lowered and set up to pull good 1/4 numbers as streetbike .
I hope you get a set of carbon wheels Mythos , I think you will appreciate the beneficial gains in weight loss , rotation mass and accompanying acceleration .
 

Mythos

Registered
I hope you get a set of carbon wheels Mythos , I think you will appreciate the beneficial gains in weight loss , rotation mass and accompanying acceleration .
I recently got a badly needed new job and will finally be making a normal living after ten years of sh!t. Low living expenses for now too. It will feel like I'm a millionaire. YES, I'm getting CF wheels for the busa or a brand new R6 or maybe I'll go completely nuts and get both. :banana:The Rotoboxes seem more suited to a smaller bike if you ask me. Maybe the R6 will get those. BSTs for the busa.
 
True , the Rotobox are lighter than the BST originals at least , and are finished off nicely outside the rim surface , and may even be shipped in aluminum box , but for extra $ I think . But , Rotobox wheels started out with some manufacturing issues , and quality control was not great by all reports I read at that period . Still would be a very nice carbon wheel , and though thick spoked , promise good strength , definitely a worthy competitor to BST , now things are all pretty well sorted .
The BST has had some documented fails , but numbers sold throughout the world , compared to known catastrophic or lesser fails , is acceptable enough .
As C10 said , he feels there are better wheels for his mile munching Busa all round application , and I agree .
Guess it all comes down to what you want out of your bike and then choose the wheels best suited to that end .
My L2 really is suited to BST application , stripped of excess weight , and given good suspension , it handles all I throw at it very well , and I really feel I have the very best bike out of choice of any for me , for comfort and all round ability , and peerless grunt . But in all honesty , if I was a younger less banged up Toad , I'd have a 1000CC bike of some description for hills / track days etc. . My Busa would still sport the same component and weight loss mods including BST , except I would Penske rear drag shock it and Traction Dynamic the stock fork , with some engine work would be lowered and set up to pull good 1/4 numbers as streetbike .
I hope you get a set of carbon wheels Mythos , I think you will appreciate the beneficial gains in weight loss , rotation mass and accompanying acceleration .
Hi. That is my bikes set up. But do not forget the DME rear Ti spring for that Penske rear shock.
 

Mythos

Registered
Got to win sometimes eh bro !! :super::thumbsup:
Thanks Roadtoad. Yes this is the song that plays in my head at least 5x/day. It's totally my story too. When life sucks donkey, just sit back and make a plan. It might be ten years but it will be good again. Life isn't so terrible without money either. There's lots of stuff I've done on the cheap that kept me occupied. It's much better to win though.

 

Mythos

Registered
There are now also a split spoke design , latest BST , might even be lighter than the conventional 5 spoke .
Info I've been combing through on Brock's site says the split spoke Rapid TEKs are winners! The front is a few ounces heavier but the rear is over a pound less than the next lightest BST rear which is the original design 6" wide rim for the 08-12 busa.

I cropped this together today. The Gen2 BSTs fair well in the lineup but I wish I could fit the 99-07 standard design front rim to my bike or at least the 2013-19 (I guess Brock was expecting there would be a 2019 busa). Ether that or I would go with a matched set of Rapid TEKs but the Rapid TEK appears to only be made for the 2013 and later bikes.

FRONTS
BSTfronts.png


REARS
BSTrears.png




The R+ is still under consideration because I intend to turbo this beast one day. I don't like the extra weight of the R+ but the higher rating for static load bearing might be needed if I go to big boost. The Rapid Tech 6" rear has a much better static load spec than the 6" standard design...again, wish I could fit a 2013 rim to my 08.

There is also a BST wheel called the Black Mamba. There are no weight specs and it looks pretty heavy for a CF wheel. The Mamba has very good static load specs too.

The 16" front is out because it is heavier and also, I do not want to loose cornering clearance. I'll bet it improves turn in and reduces wheelies but at the cost of running the chin of the lower fairings a half inch closer to the pavement.

Rotobox wheels started out with some manufacturing issues , and quality control was not great by all reports I read at that period . Still would be a very nice carbon wheel , and though thick spoked , promise good strength , definitely a worthy competitor to BST , now things are all pretty well sorted .
Yes, Brock is also selling Rotobox now. I don't think I can get used to those thick spokes.

I recently got a badly needed new job and will finally be making a normal living after ten years of sh!t. Low living expenses for now too. It will feel like I'm a millionaire.
Well---no not really. LOL I still am spending most of what I earn but that is much better than all of what I earn and then some. It is Beautiful country around here. I will post pics. There are some great roads but I have never seen so much wildlife on the roads in my life! Deer, turkey--I even saw a couple bobcats run across the road. High speed will be risky. There are almost no police but I may have to do LSR to even up the odds with all of these critters about.

I guess my only question right now is, "would it be practical to fit 2013-onwards rims to my 08?" Would I need to install antilock brakes? It looks like the rotor bolt pattern has a wider diameter on the 2013 wheel. Couldn't I just use 2013 rotors and forget about all the other antilock equipment?
 




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