Broke a Fairing bolt need advice

I'm sure he is allot better at doing this now then he was 9 years ago.

I'm sure that he was a lot like me 9 years ago as well. Everyone starts somewhere. Some people choose to not learn on their own, and other's like to live and learn so that they too can become an expert. It is a matter of preference and neither is right or wrong. I have made a lot of mistakes in the past in all life experiences, and learned from them all. I strongly believe that I am a better person for making these choices and learning from them, rather than basing my knowledge on the experience and life lessons of others. Just my choice in how I live my life.

Kevin
 
I'm sure that he was a lot like me 9 years ago as well. Everyone starts somewhere. Some people choose to not learn on their own, and other's like to live and learn so that they too can become an expert. It is a matter of preference and neither is right or wrong. I have made a lot of mistakes in the past in all life experiences, and learned from them all. I strongly believe that I am a better person for making these choices and learning from them, rather than basing my knowledge on the experience and life lessons of others. Just my choice in how I live my life.

Kevin

Well said man! :thumbsup:
 
I should have stated my credentials like Rothman. Maybe i would have come off sounding less like an idiot. :laugh:
 
Hindsight is 20/20, but there's no way that bolt was coming out with a standard easyout after being snapped off. I always prefer to drill up to the threads, in small steps near final diameter, to remover as much of the bolt as possible. Sometimes this weakens the bolt enough it can be be gently folded out of the hole. Worse case you remove some of the threads on one side of the hole, in which case the bolt can be picked out. But you would probably still have enough threads for holding the fairing.

Now your next step is a solid fix, but you might consider a couple options first. If you maintained centerline (maybe reinstall the fairing to check) when drilling/grinding out the bolt/easyout you might already be close to the tap diameter for a helicoil. That's a quick and easy fix. Otherwise i would look into a keensert, it's like a fat helicoil. OD-ID is typically 4mm, but they make thin wall versions too. You can buy them online, like McMaster-Carr, or at a specialty machine supply house. If you do go this route I would just remove the little stakes and thread lock in place to allow easy removal should the need arise.

Good luck, hope it all works out.

A set of reverse drill bits has saved me many times. As I drill many times the broken bolt will spin on out as I slowly increase the bit size.
Those are my 2 favorite ways of fixing the broke off bolt problem :thumbsup:
 
Ok.. new tapped hole is 5/8.. I know this is lot larger than original bolt hole.. Is helicoil n option?
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Ok.. new tapped hole is 5/8.. I know this is lot larger than original bolt hole.. Is helicoil n option?
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:eek:

5/8" ?! I'm not familiar with the fairing bolts on a 2nd gen but that's huge. If those bolts are the size of most Suzuki fairing bolts than a helicoil is far and away out of the question. A solid insert would be the only repair for that besides a fill and drill (weld it closed re-drill and tap). If you go the solid insert route, use plenty of loctite on the outer diameter that's going in the frame.
 
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Wow that is huge! Sorry.. I fat fingered that one on the cell. Its 3/8's. 5/8 and i would definitely be welding. Lol
 
If it is a 5/8 hole what I would do is get an SS bolt that size and get someone that has a drill press that can drill and tap the center of the bolt the size of the bolt that came out of it. Then screw it in with lock tight and take a dremel tool and cut it off flush. It should hold with red lock tight but you could always spot weld it if needed.
 
Some great advice has been given here already, but besides using a left hand drill bit, and drilling right up to the threads, I will add that if the bolt is broke off on a relatively flat surface, then sometimes a guide can be made to help keep your drill on center. ( like a small piece of flat steel with the desired size hole drilled in it, preferably on a drill press, then clamped to the frame with the `guide hole` centered over the broken bolt) clear as mud???
Chances are that if you drilled it close to center and went to tap drill size, then went with the tap, you might have saved it.
Sorry I didn`t read this thread when you first posted...but I kind of took for granted that it would be a easy fix:poke:
Years of experience does help.
I am confident that you will have a good repair when all is said and done.
FWIW- service dept. cross threaded one of the fairing bolts on my first `busa, but not broke off just hanging by a couple threads! They just took it back out and ran a tap in it and good to go..didn`t notice the bolt not `right` till I got home though.
 
Risking getting flamed for giving you advise for fixing it yourself rather than telling you to take it to a pro, here's some advise, hopefully helpfull.

The original bolt is M6-1.0 (assume we're talking about the button head shoulder bolt). I just took mine off and measured to be sure. Your hole is already too big for a standard helicoil. Unfortunately you're a bit big for a standard M6-1.0 keensert too. That would be M10-1.25 external threads which requires an 8.8mm, or 0.348" hole for 75% thread. With a 3/8" hole you're at around 40% thread with a keensert. They do make heavy duty keenserts with M12-1.25 threads, requiring a 10.8mm, or .422 (27/64). Quick search and you'll find what you need online for under $10, but you'll probably need to buy a tap and a drill as those sizes aren't in most people's collection.

The bolt in question goes through a rubber grommet in the fairing. Not that easy to install as the shoulder is fairly tight to the grommet. My fairing moved slightly when the bolt came out throwing the grommet off center to the hole. I use the long end of a non ball driver wrench with only my fingers on the shank of the wrench, not on the bend. That way you're not tempted to keep going if you meet a little resistance, cause you can't. I can see how it would be very easy to do what you did so don't feel that bad. Obviously everyone's bike will be a little different due to manufacturing tolerances so not everyone would have this problem.
 
I would not `flame ya` heck I will give you a :agree: for the advice and also for the `homework`.
I meant nothing derogatory towards anyone in my previous post, but rather trying to offer encouragement.
Hmmm. better to try and fail than to not try and succeed..hows that go???
Anyways if the OP needs any other assistance / fabrication send me a PM.
I think the idea of a fabricated aluminum insert is the way for him to go at this point. If you use a stainless bolt to fab. the insert, then a dab of never sieze on the button head might be in order. sometimes SS on SS can gall.
near 20 yrs experience here, and the last seven at a power plant, where they bring it to me after it has been buggered beyond repair...for the average mechanic anyway.
 
Wasn't referring to you Gitonit. Same goes for me Kevin. If you want a custom insert tell me what size tap you have available, metric or imperial, and I'll make you an insert no problem.
 
First off, thanks for all of the friendly and helpful advice! I finally got this one fixed, with the exception of putting the fairing back on.. waiting on expoxy to completely harden. Here are some pics and what happened along the way.. Enjoy!

Right fairing and bolt hole containing broken bolt:

1RightFairingWithBrokenBolt.jpg


Fairing removed (close up of broken off bolt)

2BrokenBoltinFrame.jpg


Drilling out the middle of the bolt (This part was easy)

3DrillingOutBolt.jpg


After drilling, I tried a craftsman screw out. As you can see from the above picture, I probably used too small of a bit and screw out. I think a larger one may not have snapped, cant be certain.. I know this one did and it was a PIA to get out. Left me with a 3/8 inch hole in the frame. I threaded this hole to add some surface area for expoxy later on..

Picture of new hole in frame:

4375Inchholeafterdrillingoutdrillout.jpg


Picked up a 3/8" aluminum rod from Loewes for 5 bucks on my way home from work:

5375inchsolidaluminumrodfromloewes.jpg


Took me 2 tries to get this right. First try, I cut the rod to length prior to Drilling and Tapping the threads. This was really dumb since aluminum (especially once thinned out from drilling) distorts under the pressure of vice grips, etc.. Prototype 2 started out longer, drilled hole far beyond the length needed and then tapped out, no pressure from vice in business area.

9RodCutandHoleDrilled.jpg


Here is a picture of the finished aluminum insert and bolt from left side. I used this bolt after tapping the insert to hold the shape of the insert during a little grinding to offer some surface area for metal epoxy to adhere to. Not real pretty on the outside, but you will never see it again! :) BTW.. Anyone who says tapping aluminum is easy has never tried it with a 12 dollar hand tapping set from harbor freight. Its very easy to cut out your threads if you do not apply sufficient force throughout each painstaking turn..

10CompletedandTappedSleeve.jpg


Next, I "kneaded" up some metal epoxy and carefully wrapped it thinly around my insert, which already fit pretty tightly in the frame. I left the bolt in the insert and carefully tapped the insert into the frame until it was flush mounted. Wiped off excess epoxy. I dont think its going anywhere, even without the epoxy the thing is very tight and need to be talked in. This is why I grinded down some areas of the insert to allow epoxy to get a bite and keep it from moving ever.

Here it is set into the frame:

11SleeveInsertedIntoFramewithEpoxy.jpg


And here is the left side fairing bolt screwed into the newly fabricated sleeve. Now all that is left is installing the fairing and obtaining a new screw for the right side. I suspect that I may have a slight alignment issue when installing the fairing and positioning the screw, but very minimal and certainly manageable.

13FairingScrewinnewhomeangle2.jpg


Thanks again for all the suggestions and support, you guys are great! I hope that my experience may help someone somewhere down the road.

Kevin
 
are those cracks or gouges you made?

Are you talking about in the frame where I show the 3/8 inch hole? Those are gouges I guess you could call them. To get the broken off screw out out of there I had to take a dremel with a small cut off wheel to it.. Slipped a couple of times.
 
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