Brock's Pipe, O2 Plug Frozen Into Pipe.




FILT166

Registered
I have a Brock's alien head setup with a plug that's in the pipe for an o2 or wide band.
The darn thing is stuck and can't remove.
Give me a few tips or tricks to remove this plug so we can plug in the wide band.
It's been stuck for years I bet
 

FlatlandBusa

Registered
This will seem odd but I guarantee that it will work. Heat the plug til it is white hot, like almost sparking off, then quench it with running water until it is cold. It will come out.
 

FILT166

Registered
So would I need s torch to get it that hot ?
Or would any map gas or butane work also?
Any local places sell that kroil like auto parts or Home Depot?
 

c10

Registered
I ordered my Kroil . Sea Foam Deep Creep is almost as good , and can be had at Auto stores for $10.99 a can .
 

FlatlandBusa

Registered
So would I need s torch to get it that hot ?
Or would any map gas or butane work also?
Any local places sell that kroil like auto parts or Home Depot?

You will need an oxygen- acetylene torch to get it hot enough. I used the heat and quench method to get literally hundreds of seized plugs out of engine blocks when I worked at a machine shop. I have never had any luck with any penetrant, when a plug is severely rusted the oil simply can't get where it needs to.
 

FILT166

Registered
No I have not, we just used a big boxed in wrench.
Might bring out the ole ingersoll titanium I have & see what happens.
 

mjl3truck

Registered
Sounds like you are headed down an ugly road if the pipe is twisting, you may end up ripping the bung out (sounds dirty) and damaging the pipe especially while it is heated. At this time I'd drill a hole down the middle of the plug then take a die grinder with a carbide tip and split the plug. You may only have to grind one side and it may collapse enough to twist it out. You'll probably nick the threads but should be able to clean them up well enough to work. Don't forget the anti-seize on the O2 sensor threads
 

Dennis

Registered
This will seem odd but I guarantee that it will work. Heat the plug til it is white hot, like almost sparking off, then quench it with running water until it is cold. It will come out.
I do this but normally don't quench the part. Normally just getting it hot is good enough to break the bond. I also weld nuts onto broken studs or bolts and the heat of welding is enough to loosen those as well.
 

FlatlandBusa

Registered
I do this but normally don't quench the part. Normally just getting it hot is good enough to break the bond. I also weld nuts onto broken studs or bolts and the heat of welding is enough to loosen those as well.

Just heating the plug works well when it is in cast iron or aluminum. I have had threads pick up when doing it this way in stainless. That is why I heat the plug then quench if there is any doubt about what the base material is.

I know it seems like heating the plug would make it tighter and that was what I thought when shown this years ago,, but it really does work very well.
 

Blackmax

Registered
Good thing my friend is a welder and could re weld Ti because I tore my Bung hole in My Ti force Sumo with very little effort
 



Latest Bikes

Forum statistics

Threads
172,887
Messages
3,093,237
Members
47,702
Latest member
chrisbridger
Top