Brocks clutch cushion

D

Djmurria

Registered
Hey guys finally got my bike fixed AGAIN and got to the track this past friday.
Best 60' was around a 1.65ish.
Bike is about 6-8" out, 46 tooth rear, carpenter ring with 3 of the 6 springs, lowered 3 inches in the back and i strap the front.
I know im being too aggressive with the clutch need more practice. But will the brocks clutch cushion help it slip more off the line even with as aggressive as im being right now.
Also do you have to use the brocks mod with it or can you use the carpenter ring with it to
 
Djmurria said:
Hey guys finally got my bike fixed AGAIN and got to the track this past friday.
Best 60' was around a 1.65ish.
Bike is about 6-8" out, 46 tooth rear, carpenter ring with 3 of the 6 springs, lowered 3 inches in the back and i strap the front.
I know im being too aggressive with the clutch need more practice. But will the brocks clutch cushion help it slip more off the line even with as aggressive as im being right now.
Also do you have to use the brocks mod with it or can you use the carpenter ring with it to
Click to expand...
Hi. Do you race a lot? If so get the MTC Gen 2 clutch. I got but I have the one with air assist 100 lbs of air to the clutch = 300 lbs more lock up pressure.
 
sorry
but wth is a carpenter ring ? what part in the entire clutch do you call that way?
and pls explain what that should be / what that contains : "carpenter ring with 3 of the 6 springs" ?

here a fiche of a standard busa clutch
CLUTCH_(MODELK2,K3).jpg


and yes missing practice kills the clutch - no matter how expensive it is .
 
I use the carptener clutch mod (goes behind the cam set and bolts in tight to keep it from camming) and heavier clutch springs works way better at launching hard, but if you do the brocks clutch mod it replaces the cam set in the clutch so no need for the carptener clutch ring. The brocks is a nicer unit and I will be changing to that this winter though I've had no issue with the carptener ring.
 
JeffSyh said:
I use the carptener clutch mod (goes behind the cam set (#5 at the fiche above) and bolts in tight to keep it from camming) and heavier clutch springs (...)
Click to expand...

uuuuuuuuuuuuh - so you mean this kind of a silver ring like at the pic RH what you call the carpenter ring ?
think so now. ;)
ring2.jpg


yeah that helps in deed against the - by us here - so called "kangaroo-effect" while starting the bike in 1st gear
if the cams on the inside part of the cam set are worn and its corners are rounded.

tech. addition :

but - at ALL gen1 - then for the stronger springs this little thing
Support-Kojaks-Shop.jpg

must been mounted cross over the clutch slave.

reason :
the gen1 sprocket cover is def. not strong enough to stay against the force of the stronger springs and it def. will brake.
 
Last edited:
Berlin Germany said:
uuuuuuuuuuuuh - so you mean this kind of a silver ring like at the pic RH what you call the carpenter ring ?
think so now. ;)
View attachment 1637974

yeah that helps in deed against the - by us here - so called "kangaroo-effect" while starting the bike in 1st gear
if the cams on the inside part of the cam set are worn and its corners are rounded.

tech. addition :

but - at ALL gen1 - then for the stronger springs this little thing
View attachment 1637975
must been mounted cross over the clutch slave.

reason :
the gen1 sprocket cover is def. not strong enough to stay against the force of the stronger springs and it def. will brake.
Click to expand...
If he has a gen 2 he doesn't need the support, I went with APE bracket and it fit like garabage I'd recommend a billet RCC cover.
 
Sorry I don't remember what year bike you have or other mods. I'll make some assumptions.

The clutch cushion comes with heavy springs. Unless you are already running heavy springs you may find that it is harder to leave smoothly with the cushion and heavy springs. It won't slip more. Basically it just replaces the stock washer springs and skinny, thick first fiber with an aluminum spacer, o-ring, and regular thinner fiber. It keeps you from burning up that skinny first fiber. I think it is called a "cushion kit" because it replaces the stock cushion. Just my opinion. If you are stock motor I would suggest staying with the setup you have and practice your launch. You would do well to study Ricky Gadson's instructions on launching a hand clutch bike.

If you have a built motor and are blowing through the clutch down track the cushion kit could be a good idea. I would expect the cushion kit to work with the ring instead of the Brocks clutch mod, but I haven't done that.
 
Sorry been busy this week
@Berlin Germany yes that's the exact piece i have. Also already have the slave support bracket.
@JeffSyh I got one i found on ebay. Realized my clutches were gone when i put it in lol the crack was the only thing allowing them to stay tight enough lol.
@michael parris heuberger funds low at the moment i wish i could its on my wishlist
@Dennis i have a gen 1 hayabusa. Im running 3 of the heavy springs that came with the carpenter ring tried all 6 but hand not strong enough to be able to do that on the street. Fudge i hope i can return it then that'll cover a few track days. I'll get on the ricky gadson schooling
 
Djmurria said:
(...) i have a gen 1 hayabusa. Im running 3 of the heavy springs that came with the carpenter ring tried all 6 but hand not strong enough to be able to do that on the street. Fudge i hope i can return it then that'll cover a few track days. I'll get on the ricky gadson schooling
Click to expand...
simple solution for yor "weak" left hand - lol

get a radial clutch master with piston dia 16 mm plus standard (long) levers
from e.g. the ducati 749 or 999

and if not yet mounted change from 38 dia slave to the 36 dia slave (piston) from a busa later than ´03 (gen2 incl. - they fit)

and then put in ALL stronger springs plus the bracket over the slave.

that´s what i did at my ´00 and the needed handforce is now the one from a 10 year old lill girl.
read here
 
Berlin Germany said:
simple solution for yor "weak" left hand - lol

get a radial clutch master with piston dia 16 mm plus standard (long) levers
from e.g. the ducati 749 or 999

and if not yet mounted change from 38 dia slave to the 36 dia slave (piston) from a busa later than ´03 (gen2 incl. - they fit)

and then put in ALL stronger springs plus the bracket over the slave.

that´s what i did at my ´00 and the needed handforce is now the one from a 10 year old lill girl.
read here
Click to expand...
Ill get to looking at around how much that cost cause if i can use all of them and end up with a lighter clutch im down for it. I could work it with all 6 but just not for long
 
@Djmurria

honestly - if you wanna race , you have to dig deep in your wallet. for only 20 bucks or so you´ll never reach the / your aim.

read my post above completely a 2nd time and also my homepage link
then you´ll understand that my recom. is the cheapest way to get a very 2-finger handable AND strong clutch same time.
 
Berlin Germany said:
@Djmurria

honestly - if you wanna race , you have to dig deep in your wallet. for only 20 bucks or so you´ll never reach the / your aim.

read my post above completely a 2nd time and also my homepage link
then you´ll understand that my recom. is the cheapest way to get a very 2-finger handable AND strong clutch same time.
Click to expand...
I'm willing to spend up to get results just like to know around how much stuff is going to be before i get started.
 
@Djmurria

surch 1st for the radial 16 dia pump
what costs you have to expect in the us i have no clue
then mount the pump and ALL stronger springs and i promise you´ll be very surprised at 1st and then happy as ever can be
and don´t wonder - the clutch feels nearly as if it has to be bleeded again.

costs?
in germany the pump incl. reservoir etc. will cost, in pre-owned good conditions, around 150 - 200 € - depends on how lucky one is and how much patience one has

e.g. :
- a buddy got both radials, brake ´n clutch, incl. all needed parts, pre-owned at ebay, arround for 390 € incl. shipping 3 weeks ago,
- i got the same entire pack also pre-owned at ebay for 250 € 2 years ago

ps: what y.o.c. is the engine (the bike) ?
it is strongly recom. to mention that
because (e.g.) the ´99-´03 have a 38 dia slave piston and the laters (incl. gen2) the 36 dia slave
 
Last edited:
Berlin Germany said:
@Djmurria

see for example this pair of radial pumps at ebay.com

their mentioning of the "sizes" of the pistons

quote:
Brake Master Engraving : 7K20 + 18
Clutch Master Engraving : 7K11-15

at the moment I unfortunately don´t understand - should be investigated (by email to the seller e.g., or be asked at a ducati store)
Click to expand...
Ok thanks.
Dennis said:
A stock Gen1 with no power adder doesn't need heavy springs at all.
Click to expand...
I had put new clutches in with the blue springs that came with it. I just put the heavy springs in because thats what came with the carpenter ring. I wouldn't say it was needed but it gave me more feel of the clutch of that makes since
 
Berlin Germany said:
simple solution for yor "weak" left hand - lol

get a radial clutch master with piston dia 16 mm plus standard (long) levers
from e.g. the ducati 749 or 999

and if not yet mounted change from 38 dia slave to the 36 dia slave (piston) from a busa later than ´03 (gen2 incl. - they fit)

and then put in ALL stronger springs plus the bracket over the slave.

that´s what i did at my ´00 and the needed handforce is now the one from a 10 year old lill girl.
read here
Click to expand...
Looking into doing this now. Most the ones in us ive been finding are 15. Those wouldnt work would they??
 
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