Brock’s AH on gen 1 without a tune?

James417

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I have 1999 hayabusa and Thinking of getting a Brock’s Alien Head full exhaust but see it’s technically meant for a gen 2. But I also see it being ran on gen 1 busa’s. I found few people ran this exhuast without a tune or pc on a gen 1 as long as they didn’t have air box mod? If that’s not true and it needs a tune or pc I’ll hold of on exhuast and go for pc or 32bit ecu to get it tuned when I grab that exhuast. Don’t want to melt anything if I will go lean. But I imagine wouldn’t be much more lean then shorty tips on a stock header like I have now?
 
So your saying im Gonna waste more money in the long run by doing it this way, like destroy the engine?? Please eleborate and feel free to call me ignorant but I’m a bit confused in what way you’re meaning that? As in the exhuast quality or the way I’m going about holding off tuning it?
 
So your saying im Gonna waste more money in the long run by doing it this way, like destroy the engine?? Please eleborate and feel free to call me ignorant but I’m a bit confused in what way you’re meaning that? As in the exhuast quality or the way I’m going about holding off tuning it?
Hi. I have been riding and racing for over 50 years. I had to fix a friends 100% stock bike who road wide open for a few miles. It put a hole in number 2 piston. They are made to run lean for emissions. It is your bike and your money. I am doing a motor now the cost for parts, trans and clutch =$20,500.00. This build is for an 1000HP turbo bike for LSR racing. I know yours would not cost this much, but would you jest want to fix it back up stock?
 
Hi. I have been riding and racing for over 50 years. I had to fix a friends 100% stock bike who road wide open for a few miles. It put a hole in number 2 piston. They are made to run lean for emissions. It is your bike and your money. I am doing a motor now the cost for parts, trans and clutch =$20,500.00. This build is for an 1000HP turbo bike for LSR racing. I know yours would not cost this much, but would you jest want to fix it back up stock?

Thanks for the reply. I honestly just wanted some input on the idea of running without tune being I saw a couple guys do it but, figured get some clarity on how dangerous it could be. So yeah full exhuast tune or pc is a must. Anyways an LSR racing build is like miles past my budget even a big bore or turbo kit lol I know gen 1s are limited on hp unless you tear into em but, a nice exhaust and pc or tune got to be better than stock butchered header with shorties .
 
I have 1999 hayabusa and Thinking of getting a Brock’s Alien Head full exhaust but see it’s technically meant for a gen 2. But I also see it being ran on gen 1 busa’s. I found few people ran this exhuast without a tune or pc on a gen 1 as long as they didn’t have air box mod? If that’s not true and it needs a tune or pc I’ll hold of on exhuast and go for pc or 32bit ecu to get it tuned when I grab that exhuast. Don’t want to melt anything if I will go lean. But I imagine wouldn’t be much more lean then shorty tips on a stock header like I have now?
I don't know, not professional advice but...I ran a full exhaust with air box mod never tuned on my Gen 1 when I had it with ZERO issues. 1 down on front sprocket, ran like a horse. :race:
 
So it kind of seems like it’s hit or miss depending on bike being some people saying ran too lean. Maybe some gen 1s are a little more “fat” in the fuel delivery from Suzuki? I heard similar results from other people like scooby315 being ok running full exhuast intake and no tune. So I’ll prob go for a pc to be safe but, I don’t see why I wouldn’t be able to get away with full exhuast with can and stock intake for now being it’s running fine with open header basically. Unfortionately don’t think I have any bike dynos at least not well known ones near me so ecu editor maybe less than usable option.
 
I ran a full system without a PC, it surged a bit under partial throttle, but other than that it was fine. Ran much better in terms of power delivery once I put a PC on it though.
 
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Do your mod
Don't worry about the AFR unless you run it WOT a lot
Put the tune high up on your list
Your bike will prefer the tune
If you're WOT a lot (or you're racing) your bike will need the tune . . . but you should already know that
 
Do your mod
Don't worry about the AFR unless you run it WOT a lot
Put the tune high up on your list
Your bike will prefer the tune
If you're WOT a lot (or you're racing) your bike will need the tune . . . but you should already know that
Hi. I have been riding and racing for over 50 years. I had to fix a friends 100% stock bike who road wide open for a few miles. It put a hole in number 2 piston. They are made to run lean for emissions. It is your bike and your money. I am doing a motor now the cost for parts, trans and clutch =$20,500.00. This build is for an 1000HP turbo bike for LSR racing. I know yours would not cost this much, but would you jest want to fix it back up stock?
Getting it tuned is a small investment in your bikes longevity.
Do your mod
Don't worry about the AFR unless you run it WOT a lot
Put the tune high up on your list
Your bike will prefer the tune
If you're WOT a lot (or you're racing) your bike will need the tune . . . but you should already know that

Kinda beating the dead horse here but I took her for a ride and really let it eat few days ago. Was nice so just did a wot run to red line and it pulls like freight train until right around 9800 rpms where it rapidly falls off. Like if it was on a dyno I could picture the graph just abruptly going flat and falling around 10k rpms. Now it’s not like the extra 1k rpms to redline shifts are needed for street but this tells me the stupid open pipes on even the stock header prob causing fueling issues in higher rpms. I decided fueling first so Im about to get a pc. If where to use a pc with this “exhaust” is it possible to use One of the already made tunes for pipes? I had been under impression it was robbing power but feeling it “fall off” like that in high rpms scared me into thinking lean. Or is it possibly something else causing that? And I wanted to go ecu editor route but I don’t have any bike dynos near me. Pc would be cheap insurance and can retune fuel with it when I get real exhuast.
 
Everybody likes to goof around James with their Busa.BUT the gains with a map from a PC list of pipe/filter/etc combo's will be negligible but are better than nothing.
Open up one of these generic maps and compare it to stock,not much diff.
It can be a hassle to find a dyno,I feel your pain. I live in the land of igloo's,there are few shops[none with dyno capabilities] and none have an' interest in working on my bike,so I have to do it all myself [40+years].
But as the smart folk suggest ^ you may/should have to travel to find not just a dyno,but a GOOD TUNER.
Rubb.
 
The only way to know for sure what it's doing is to log. Did it fall over in every gear at the same rpm?
Everybody likes to goof around James with their Busa.BUT the gains with a map from a PC list of pipe/filter/etc combo's will be negligible but are better than nothing.
Open up one of these generic maps and compare it to stock,not much diff.
It can be a hassle to find a dyno,I feel your pain. I live in the land of igloo's,there are few shops[none with dyno capabilities] and none have an' interest in working on my bike,so I have to do it all myself [40+years].
But as the smart folk suggest ^ you may/should have to travel to find not just a dyno,but a GOOD TUNER.
Rubb.

Yeah it’s a bit tough to find someone but if I got travel it will be worth it I always see people debating what kind of gains from this and that. Honestly a good tuner is only way I see gen 1s even with full exhaust intake better cams going even just completely stock gen 2 power if that. And the issue seems to happen in every gear but, my lower gears 1st-3rd it’s much more drastic. I have never really pulled higher than 4th before not enough road lol but it seemed 4th pulls higher in rpms? I’ll get back let you know if I can find a safe area to do it.
 
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