break in

[busa-rich]

Ok.Did anybody not break in their bike like the owners manual says to. My break in time was only for 60 miles when the bike was new. what i read and heard is that the fisrt 60miles is most critical for proper ring seating. and is the only window of time u have to do this.BTW my bike and my buddies are running great. just about 1k and use spectro 20-50 and oe filter.

 

[pward76]

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

I used it.... no problems so far, but I only have 6k on mine

 

[Ranger]

I don’t know, I followed the break-in according to the Suzuki manual. I figure all the engineers, planning and time they use to design this fine machine, they probably figured out the best break-in for it and not some procedure that would be less than acceptable. My .02 cents.

 

[paineless4u]

I don’t know, I followed the break-in according to the Suzuki manual. I figure all the engineers, planning and time they use to design this fine machine, they probably figured out the best break-in for it and not some procedure that would be less than acceptable. My .02 cents.

Although I cannot confirm but I believe they (Suzuki) test all their motors prior to shipping, meaning they take them throught their paces so if true your motor has already seen the redline Not on the street I assume but probably on their dyno.

I broke mine in hard and it seems to be fine.

 

[nitrousjunkie]

I don’t know, I followed the break-in according to the Suzuki manual. I figure all the engineers, planning and time they use to design this fine machine, they probably figured out the best break-in for it and not some procedure that would be less than acceptable. My .02 cents.

What he ^ said!

 

[shenoyp]

I didnt follow any break in... no manual, no mototune... I just drove it, and made sure I keep changing the gears often!! First service was done on time... and Elenor is rocking

 

[Bdygrd4u]

I didnt follow any break in... no manual, no mototune... I just drove it, and made sure I keep changing the gears often!! First service was done on time... and Elenor is rocking

Same here. I have 450 miles and rode it as I saw fit for traffic. I changed the oil myself at 300 miles with a K&N filter (because it has a nut on the back for ease of use).

Bike runs...well...as new!

Scott

 

[#cruncherbusa]

I don’t know, I followed the break-in according to the Suzuki manual. I figure all the engineers, planning and time they use to design this fine machine, they probably figured out the best break-in for it and not some procedure that would be less than acceptable. My .02 cents.

What he ^ said!

+1

 

[BigBSBusa]

+2 for service manual break-in.

 

[C_Henry]

I'm doing it as per the manual.

 

[busa-rich]

We got a mixed bag. i guess what ever works best for you go with it right?

 

[Nijinsky3]

I don't know about bikes (mine is OLD and well broke(er, uh...broken in??), but with my cars/trucks I have always taken it easy the first 500 or so, no towing until I had atleast 1000 on the trucks. But after that, I drive it normal. On freeways, I usually do about 80, so I do 80 to break it in. One thing I noticed is that whatever I do breaking it in is what it seems to do easiest. For example, my truck gets its best gas mileage at about 75-80. My grandma's cars however, get shitty mileage if I do over 55.

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[macbusa]

Breakins are for wimps! I did a block long burnout leaving the dealership - wheelied my way onto the interstate and buried the speedo in the first five miles after I got my bike.

 

[mjn]

I was able to control my right wrist for about 200, no, make that 120 miles. Then took a blast to 150.
But basically, I kept it below 6K up till 400 mi's. My dlr says "you arent gonna hurt it"

 

[shenoyp]

We got a mixed bag. i guess what ever works best for you go with it right?

You got it figured right there mate

 

[mountainmotor]

Obviously there are major differences in how engines are machined , internal parts used these days compared to the past .

In days where we did not have Nikasil or other newer type coating on the bores , the high side of the hone marks needed to be literally worn off before they had chance to lay over and keep the rings from seating . Combine old tech honing on iron bores from yesteryear then add the ultra lite ring pressure used on bike engines there was real need to run them in a bit harder even though these bikes run twice the RPM of the automobile engines .

Still yet I beleive in at least a couple of full heat cycles and 50-150 miles then 5 full trips to 80% of redline in one gear like 3rd * and back off the gas coasting to idle just like the ring makers such as Hastings ect recommend  .

*big mph on the Busa though but finding and going uphill helps .

We have more than the engine parts running in on our bikes . We have the trans parts also .

Take and dump the oil at 100 miles into a clean container and look at the sparklies in the bottom . The various metals are abrasive and can contribute to bore polishing . The only way the get them all out is to drain . Myself , I drain and replace 3 times before 700 miles . At 500 miles , the trans is still making metal . Each time removing but re-using the oil filter so all the oil held up high by the anti-drainback valve comes out . Then it's synthetic time for mountainmotor .

I use synthetic mostly so the oil does not take a hit in the ultra hot ring pack area , it keeps the engine seals in better condition and the PAO or Ester offers better resistance to temp viscosity shear as compared to dino's in the same viscosity and lastly but not leastly I can run one year without taking the plastic off when using good , real synthetic .

 

[mjn]

Mountainmotor,

I am a big synthetic fan, and am seriously considering it for my bus, what is your brand of choice?
Mark

 

[busa-rich]

Mountainmotor,

I am a big synthetic fan, and am seriously considering it for my bus, what is your brand of choice?
Mark

I like amsoil 20-50 full syn.I also like the k&N oil filter idea,because it has a nut welded to it.we all know how much fun it is to take our oil filters off. I think I will wait to get 1500 to 2000 miles on her,then go full syn..

 

[paineless4u]

Breakins are for wimps!  I did a block long burnout leaving the dealership - wheelied my way onto the interstate and buried the speedo in the first five miles after I got my bike.

 

probably have better seated rings and better Hp as a result.
I did the same
Minus the burn out and wheelie

 

[mountainmotor]

Mountainmotor,

I am a big synthetic fan, and am seriously considering it for my bus, what is your brand of choice?
Mark

I just use Synergyn 15w-50 these days in all my bikes , their 30 weights in the cars. It has mega ester with some pao but neat thing compared to Mobil, it's only like 5.20 a quart when you buy a case of 6 - 4 quart containers ---- free shipping .

Mobil does not use any ester in their 15w-50 BTW . They are using whats called a " AN correction fluid " along with pao .The new EP Mobil would be my second choice for a sport tourer Busa . It's really good this time around .

Synergyn smells like rocket fuel and is really big in drag boat racing , some Nascars and many Prostock race cars . Don't let all that fool you . It's a great street oil .

Synergyn is the best oil I've ever used period and I use analysis to quantify the results . The Busas don't need the really thick 20w-50 synthetics . These bikes will run lower oil temps with a thinner 50wt but many Busa's just need a thinner 10w-40 synthetic depending on how they are driven .

Maxima makes a nice 5w-40 synthetic these days that would work for many Busa's used in certain conditions. Pricing is 6.30 per liter when bought in a 20quart pail . Thats alot of oil that would need be split with a friend .

There's more to say but I hope this helps some .