Brand new busa has missing and seized screws

O

oldguy

Registered
Installing alarm yesterday and tried to remove right side fairing. Centre(in fairing) allen head screw will turn 1/2 turn and thats it. Will break wrench or strip screw to try harder. Guess I will have to try and drill it. A screw was also missing on the bottom of the fairing holding one side of the inside metal brace.
Does the dealer mount the fairing on new busa or is it assembled at factory?
Its a long way for me to get to dealer. I had'nt planned on letting them do the first service but maybe I should, considering the jammed screw.
My past experience with bike warranties has never been sterling.
 
Busa doesnt sound so new. Im not sure who mounts the fairings but go to them and tell them what the problem is and they should, if they sold it to you, work with you. I know it comes with locktite on some of the screws but i didnt think it was on the fairing screws
 
They may not mount the fairings, but it should be part of the prep after taking it out of the crate.
 
Brand new. 0 miles. Someone must have cross threaded that screw.
I'm just debating to deal with it myself or make the 3 hour trip.
 
Sorry to hear about your trouble. You know it was some punk at the stealership just assing his way through putting the bike together. I'm sure a majority of their customers never take their bikes apart so they figure fug it, they can get away with it.
 
(oldguy @ Mar. 08 2005 said:
Brand new. 0 miles. Someone must have cross threaded that screw.
I'm just debating to deal with it myself or make the 3 hour trip.
Click to expand...
That is a tough call.

I had a seized screw, took me 3 days and patients.

In the end I had to drill out the screw. I even snapped an easy out off and the tip stayed in the screw.

I would see if there were any dealerships local and see if the dealership 3 hours away could work something out with a more closer dealership.

If not, my advice that stems from my personal experience with seized fairing screws, seriously consider taking it to a dealer, that way if they F' it up, you should be able to make them "make it right"

Just my .02
 
Myself, I would probably take it to a local dealer, if possible. If not possible, I would just drill the damn thing out and get it done with.
 
Just remember, ANY Suzuki dealer can service your Busa. They may tell you take it back where you bought it, but they are required to help you according to Suzuki. I bought my Busa from a dealer about 35 miles away, but I have a Suzuki dealer 5 blocks away. Where do you think I get my Busa serviced? Well I don't ride it 35 miles away for service! I'd take it that far just to ride it, but not the fix it!

Find a dealer that's closer to you, and have them fix it.
beerchug.gif
 
OG- sounds like the same one I lost at about 500 miles. I have since learned to include all my fairing screws in my post-flight tightening regiment (really about once a month). I would call your dealer and see if they will send you a new screw or two. That way you can wait tell the first service and make them take the siezed one out. I was told the first service should be done at the dealership just so your entered into the service database, it being one of the more important services as far as warranty goes. They are suppose to really check it over, even though the majority don't do anything more then an oil change and boot ya out for about $90....
 
I've talked to the dealer (they are the closest dealer) and they will look after it. I really do not want them to do the first service as I usally do my own (non-warranty) stuff. Why pay $180 minimum for an oil change and chain service.

I've decided not too fool with the screw. Like someone else said, if they screw up its their cost. If I screw up, I could be buying a new right side fairing.

I'll have to arrange a ride down there to get it fixed before the first oil change is due for sure.

Not to mention the alarm I bought for the bike will not work either ... gggrrrr

At least I've gotten the stickers off without drama or trauma.

Thanks for all the advice.
 
Glad to hear you're taking it back. Just think if you're drilling it out and you made one little slip...you'd be kicking yourself for a long time.

If it's cross threaded the threads in the frame are probably shot too, let them deal with the tapping and heli coil.

Sorry to hear you're having problems with a brand new bike, but at least it's only small nuisance stuff.
 
That cross threaded screw was bugging me too much.

After much care I finally drilled a hole big enough to break the head of the screw away and then the fairing slid off. A pair of vise grips removed the rest that was still cross threaded in the frame. I got lucky. Only the outside threads were damaged and I was able to get another screw in there.

I had visions of a kid at the dealership wielding a big drill and screwing everything up. And then the big fight afterwards.

Now I can change the oil when its due. Should I go synthetic at 600 miles or wait a bit?
 
I've removed quite a few STUCK allen screws over the years on custom knives as well as bikes. One thing that works very well for me is gluing the allen or torx wrench into the screw head using JB Weld. It must sit overnight but once is's cured, it's almost like having the wrench and screw one solid piece!!! Clean both the screw head and the wrench with acetone or break cleaner for a good bond. Once you get the screw out, then you can worry about getting the wrench out of the screw!! A bit of wiggling, cursing and WD 40 ususally does it ;) Good quality allen or torx wrenches are also a must if they are soft and of poor quality, they wont work.
 
There's a lot of conventional wisdom going around that you shouldn't use synthetic oil until after 2 or 3K miles. A lot of people wouldn't use full synthetic at the 600 mile change, just a good motorcycle specific non-synthetic oil. Something about synthetic being too slippery and defeats the break in process.

Whether or not this is an old wives tail, I have no clue.



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If the allen head machine screw is of the button head type, you can use a sharp center punch and tighten the grip of the allen wrench to the hole by using the center punch and center punching a dimple just to the side of each of the flats on the machine screw.
 
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