Brakes, Oil and valves clearance check

Sandow

Registered
Last night I did an oil change, replaced the seal on my clutch gasket after I checked my clutch plates, started upgrading my breaks to new lines and pads. A friend of mine came by who happens to work at the local Suzuki shop and he showed me how to check the valve clearance.
Learned something new. The bird has 25 000 km on the clock and all is within the limits.

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I checked my valve clearance at 46kmiles and all were in good order. I did have to get a new gasket as I pinched mine. Be sure to get all that air out.
The headgasket cover SEAL was a real b*tch to get back in but it worked eventually.
I have bled my brakes last winter already and know how it works....I will make sure to get the air out though. Thanks!
 
Great job Daniel . I found on gen 2 when doing valves I drop the radiator forward , and remove the plastic shroud up top in front of the valve cover . this makes getting a hand into adjust the valve cover going back onto the gasket easier . No coolant drain required just undo the brackets , and pull forward a few inches .
All my valves were in spec @ 24,000 miles
 
Why not adjust the #1 exhaust and the #4 intake? .05 difference between two valves in the same cylinder seems like too much to me regardless of being ‘within spec’. And what is a clutch gasket “seal“, you mean the clutch cover gasket?
 
@Sandow

i´m tired of this theme like a monk in tibet turning the "praying rolls".

sorry but send your "friend" back to school, if he told you the values at the sheet were fine.

in german
früher hätte man gesagt "dieser freund solle besser sein lehrgeld zurück geben"

clearances at 0.10 at in - are the abs. minimum
the gen1 manual says their max is at 0.20 and that i would strongly recommend for gen1 busa´s engine

same nonsense are the gen1 val´s at your ex - their´s is minimum 0,20 / max 0.30

if you had been with that in my shop, i had change all 16 shims - for 100% real

at a clearance lower than middle (25/100 (ex) or 15/100 (in)) the shims all have to be replaced that the resulting clearance will become as close to max as possible
AND
for best smooth engine running
both valve clearances of one cylinder should be as near/close to the other as possible
max diff 2/100 (in or ex - same max)

please allways use the "feeler gauge " with steps of 1/100 ! (4/100, 5/100 .. 11/100 .. 23/100 .. 30/100) to get the clearances correctly - steps of 5/100 are not exact enough !

uuuuh yes another thing

in the german haya board we had one "super mech" who really tried to explain us
that he can hear the valves clattering when clearance is at max - what a big big bullshit ´n nonsense.

the absolute principle is here :
the clearance (max is best) of the valves has to compensate their linear (length) expansion when getting hot
and the less this clearance is, the bigger the risk that the valve and its seat can burn (away)

sorry to all those i'm stepping on their feet now
who ever tells that a clearance - at gen1 - of less than 24/100 /ex) or 15/100 (in) is still absolutely okay is telling sheer nonsense ! basta.

as a reminder - the values of the gen2 are 18-28/100 and 8-18/100 mm
- damn what a huge difference to gen1 - har har har / l m a o / r o f l
 
Why not adjust the #1 exhaust and the #4 intake? .05 difference between two valves in the same cylinder seems like too much to me regardless of being ‘within spec’. And what is a clutch gasket “seal“, you mean the clutch cover gasket?
The headgasket cover SEAL was a real b*tch to get back in but it worked eventually.
I have bled my brakes last winter already and know how it works....I will make sure to get the air out though. Thanks!
The method I use to make it easier with fitting the valve cover is to coat the gasket in rubber grease, then lay it down carefully and line it up so it sits on the head surface nice and straight, the grease helps it stay put and not move. Then carefully lower the valve cover on to the gasket and it should mate nicely, the gasket slips into the recess in the cover.
I then get my small mirror on the telescopic stick with a light and check all along the edge of the cover along the front, just to be certain it’s in its recess.
It works for me every time!
 
mmmmmmmmmmmmm

at the clutch cover there is no seal - the gasket itself only

BUT - on left and right hand side you can see the line between upper / lower crankase parts
and there you HAVE to seal 3/8" wide up ´n down (by a silicone seal dot) the separating surface.

@Kiwi Rider
there are 2 pins in the crankase (or clutch cover)
put them back into their holes in crankase you can simply hang the gasket onto them
and "glue" the gasket by the two silicone seal dots.
mounted this way the gasket never more can fall off
and you can mount the clutch cover very easy. (all 6 mm srews max 10Nm)
 
Got to appreciate a nail biting thread were we have lots of knowledge from all over the globe. Bravo tackling the job by yourself. When I did mine I was a lil intimidated. I can wrench a car all day long with my eyes closed. Bikes, however, I just don’t have small hands so it was internet and trial and error.
 
@SSGT_B

yes, car and motorcycle have to be viewed differently in terms of maintenance / repair.

in general I would say it like this:
the larger a vehicle is, the rougher it becomes to work with it.
and
the parts are all getting bigger and heavier.

therefore e.g. I have almost all work done on my car (´96Audi A6) in the outside workshop.

but
at all my motorcycles I do the repair and maintenance 100% myself - nobody else can get there - that's fact (very similar the same to my friends bikes)
 
Man I just haven't grown the balls to do engine stuff. ....

hey man - really - very honorable this honesty

this sentence makes me lough a lot
and i tell you seriously
that "my balls" grew by 40 year long growing experiances by try and error
and some following faults (to the errors)

proceeding very slowly, with a lot of feeling
and sometimes a lot of help from friends
can I say today that i guess I could disassemble and reassemble ! almost any (metric) motor -
presupposed (assuming?) I have the necessary special tools
and above all the right manual.

so do not despair - find someone who can and look over his shoulder, ask him "a hole in the belly/stomach"
and then try it yourself .

this way your experience increases and grows like gras after a "Monsoon rain" in the jungle.

philosophically said:
you are never too old to go new and unknown ways - so go for it !
 
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hey man - really - very honorable this honesty

this sentence makes me lough a lot
and i tell you seriously
that "my balls" grew by 40 year long growing experiances by try and error
and some following faults (to the errors)

proceeding very slowly, with a lot of feeling
and sometimes a lot of help from friends
can I say today that i guess I could disassemble and reassemble ! almost any (metric) motor -
presupposed (assuming?) I have the necessary special tools
and above all the right manual.

so do not despair - find someone who can and look over his shoulder, ask him "a hole in the belly/stomach"
and then try it yourself .

this way your experience increases and grows like gras after a "Monsoon rain" in the jungle.

philosophically said:
you are never too old to go new and unknown ways - so go for it !
I actually know a lot about the motor and how it goes together/works. I read the manual sometimes just for the curiosity. That way I can tell is the shop guy is pulling my leg or not! But I just don't have the time or space I would like to do that sort of stuff.
 
He said he replaced the clutch gasket ‘seal’.
If you open the clutch cover - there is a seal. Its actually shown on my picture in between the brake lines and brake pads. Thats the one I changed. If thats the wrong name for it - Iam sorry.

The seal of the engine cover was not replaced. It was just pretty hard to get back in place to close the engine cover again after checking the valves!
 
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